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My idea of a Shelby Ranger if there would have been one.


Hey multi, did you end up changing your O2 sensors? I wonder if one of them is pooched...

PS: "Jammer" is back on it's own feet again, but tomorrow I get to diagnose a draw and high idle... woo...

I hope you had better luck than me!! I am wondering the same thing about the o2????
 
I hope you had better luck than me!! I am wondering the same thing about the o2????

For what it's worth multi I would change the 2 upstream ones. They were giving me trouble on the 98. Solved a lot of stuff and drastically improved my mileage.

And no such luck on the high idle issue. I jerry rigged the air filter together with double sided tape to seal it, clean the maf, checked the plenum cleaned the throttle body and swapped out my iac for another one I just cleaned and... nothing. Still idles way high, I drove it around the block and when i pulled into my driveway in drive it idled normally but as soon as I put it in park it idle right up. It also slams into reverse. But still, at least I drove it around the block!:D
 
For what it's worth multi I would change the 2 upstream ones. They were giving me trouble on the 98. Solved a lot of stuff and drastically improved my mileage.

And no such luck on the high idle issue. I jerry rigged the air filter together with double sided tape to seal it, clean the maf, checked the plenum cleaned the throttle body and swapped out my iac for another one I just cleaned and... nothing. Still idles way high, I drove it around the block and when i pulled into my driveway in drive it idled normally but as soon as I put it in park it idle right up. It also slams into reverse. But still, at least I drove it around the block!:D

Not sure if it makes a difference but Mine only has one 02...I am thinking on changing it but for now I bought a factory service Manual on Ebay.. I am gonna wait until I get it before I do anything else.. Is your truck an auto?

Also have you checked the base Idle? unplug the IAC and see what your Idle is. Should be about 500 RPM. Also take the throttle cable loose to make sure it isn't binding the butterfly open. I am assuming you have an Auto in her? if so make sure the vac line going to the mod on the tranny is good and verify the mod isn't leaking vac... Which motor does she have in her?
 
Not sure if it makes a difference but Mine only has one 02...I am thinking on changing it but for now I bought a factory service Manual on Ebay.. I am gonna wait until I get it before I do anything else.. Is your truck an auto?

Also have you checked the base Idle? unplug the IAC and see what your Idle is. Should be about 500 RPM. Also take the throttle cable loose to make sure it isn't binding the butterfly open. I am assuming you have an Auto in her? if so make sure the vac line going to the mod on the tranny is good and verify the mod isn't leaking vac... Which motor does she have in her?

Auto, and of course it never occurred to me to check any of the stuff you just said:icon_rofl: It's going into the shop on Tuesday so I might just get the guys to look at it just to be driving it that little bit sooner.
 
Auto, and of course it never occurred to me to check any of the stuff you just said:icon_rofl: It's going into the shop on Tuesday so I might just get the guys to look at it just to be driving it that little bit sooner.

I think I have figured out what the problem may very well be on my ole girl.
As you know I built this thing from frame up and I made sure everything was as correct as possible. Well I dropped the fuel tank the same day after I had bolted the bed down... Fighting to get the tank back in by my self I think I may have pinched the return line. I had forgotten I had dropped it to fix the aftermarket filler neck fitment... Saturday when I broke the return line loose on the fuel rail it had a ton of pressure on it. After researching I found it shouldn't have any on it.. Assuming Ford works the way GM and Jeeps do with a return system.... I hope you figure out your issue quickly... One thing I found it a little grease on the throttle cable helps where the spring and tube looking things are.. grease the tubes cause mine was sticking there causing the butterfly to stick open some and caused it to stick at WOT.
 
Hey, good to hear you got 'er figured multi! Still waitin' on a burnout. :D
 
Hey, good to hear you got 'er figured multi! Still waitin' on a burnout. :D

Not fixed yet.. Unfortunatly I am at work.. So far just researching the pressure on the return line. With it having a ton of pressure on it I think it is the issue or part of... I hate to say but I am still guessing what is wrong... I am gonna guess all the free stuff before I guess the new parts stuff.

Soon as she is running right with no codes I will do da burn out!
 
Got home from work unplugged the return line by the fuel filter. I could blow air to the tank so that was good. Put a gas can under with the hose from the fuel rail into it.. Started her up and fuel flowed freely into the gas can... I read the purge cannister could be bad and a simple test of unplugging the line should clear it up.. that didn't change anything.
I unplugged the Vac line from the FPR and held my finger over it while watching the data on the Snap On scanner. The millivolts shot up pretty high. Plugged it back in and it lowered back down.... here is a hold frame of the data on the scanner if someone knows how to read it... Maybe someone can see what I don't...

IAC (%) 41.0
TP MODE C/T
TPS (V) 0.86
IAT=ACT (V) 1.60
IAT=ACT (CELSIUS) 53
ECT (V) 0.74
ECT (CELSIUS) 82
INJ PW1 (mS) 1.69
OPEN/CLOSED LOOP OPEN
SFTRIM 1(%) 1
SPARK ADVANCE (DEGREES) 18
VPWR =BATT(V) 14.4
VREF (V) 4.98
WAC=WOT A/C ON
CANP=PURGE OFF
 
Also, if its warm, it should go into closed loop. If it isint switching, we know the ecm isint happy with the readings from something.
 
Also, if its warm, it should go into closed loop. If it isint switching, we know the ecm isint happy with the readings from something.

Yep and what it isn't happy with is the million dollar question :D At this point I am thinking either MAf or o2 it's self is bad
 
Yep and what it isn't happy with is the million dollar question :D At this point I am thinking either MAf or o2 it's self is bad

Could you see anything changing in sync with the loop changing?? Like tps or iac % or the 02 reading?? The other thing is, do you know of anything for an exhaust leak anywhere??? A little air into the exhaust stream will wack some the o2 out also.
 
Could you see anything changing in sync with the loop changing?? Like tps or iac % or the 02 reading?? The other thing is, do you know of anything for an exhaust leak anywhere??? A little air into the exhaust stream will wack some the o2 out also.

TPS stays the same as long as the throttle is left alone..
IAC stays the same as well..
The 02 reading jumps around like crazy
sometimes the reading is negative millivolts sometimes it's high in the thousands...
Exhaust is good If there are any leaks they are so quiet you can't hear them.
So I am gonna say no leakes that are noticed..
 
TPS stays the same as long as the throttle is left alone..
IAC stays the same as well..
The 02 reading jumps around like crazy
sometimes the reading is negative millivolts sometimes it's high in the thousands...
Exhaust is good If there are any leaks they are so quiet you can't hear them.
So I am gonna say no leakes that are noticed..

If it goes negative, you have a cracked, or bad 02. It should never read negative at all. Its toast man. Grab a new one and move on to a burnout vid!!
 

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