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blown headgasket?


nate12346

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
300
Age
36
City
Colorado Springs, CO
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
So Im pretty sure it's blown but I want to make sure with you guys. Whenever I shut off the truck bubbles come up from the radiator and the fluid looks nice and nasty rusty. pretty much 100% on the headgasket. Is it worth my time to fix?
 
based on assumption, yes
 
Last edited:
I'm not so sure you are correct in your assumption! If the gasket is blown those bubbles will be coming up all the time you are running the engine... So the coolant WILL puke out the overflow.
When you stop and take the cap off of the radiator there are parts in the engine that are hotter than the boiling point of water (212*) so you get those bubbles.
With the cap in place if the system holds it's coolant the head gasket is GOOD!!!
Big JIm
 
yup it pukes while the engine is running.... :( how much would it cost to take to a shop? Can a mechanically inclined college kid fix it in his garage?
 
Dude!

yup it pukes while the engine is running.... :( how much would it cost to take to a shop? Can a mechanically inclined college kid fix it in his garage?

Does it puke with the cap in place and tightened? Or did you have the cap off?
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 
Yes. you can. This is a pretty straight forward job. You may need to buy some tools. Namely the torx bit for the head bolts.

One problem you are going to run into is the manifold bolts like to snap off. this is a common problem. My solution to the problem is to buy a set of heads in advance and do any work to them first.

So you have a set of heads ready to go before you ever unbolt anything from the truck.

Should take a day to do without lots of experience.

Let me throw some other ideas in there.

If you are taking the heads off. you may as well get the valve seals replaced and the seats reground. check the rockers for the spawling and possibly replace those as well. this goes back to having a set ready to go before hand. basically get the replacements completely rebuilt before anything else.
 
It takes some time but pretty straight forward.What I did was take off the exhaust manifold with the head so the bolts never had a chance to break off.It was well worth it to me.
 
what if it pukes it AFTER the engine is shut off? My truck has been running hotter than it should be but its not over heating. when I start it and fill the radiator while its running it holds fluid just fine but as soon as I shut the engine off it pukes it out the over flow. I was told by a friend he thought it may be one of the Thermostats since it runs hotter than it should even when the coolant is full when running. Also at times the heater stops putting out hot air then it comes back then goes away.

I dont meen to Hijack this thread but the symptoms were alot like mine is why I ask. The engine even with over 200k miles still runs very strong and atm this is the only problum.
 
hmmmm

what if it pukes it AFTER the engine is shut off? My truck has been running hotter than it should be but its not over heating. when I start it and fill the radiator while its running it holds fluid just fine but as soon as I shut the engine off it pukes it out the over flow. I was told by a friend he thought it may be one of the Thermostats since it runs hotter than it should even when the coolant is full when running. Also at times the heater stops putting out hot air then it comes back then goes away.

I dont meen to Hijack this thread but the symptoms were alot like mine is why I ask. The engine even with over 200k miles still runs very strong and atm this is the only problum.

Ya have to fill the radiator WITH the heater turned on. AND you have to fill it till the thermostat opens and the temp is up to par. Lots of guys forget to do this and their engine has an air pocket in it that causes problems.

The boiling over after stopping indicates a particularly hot place in the engine, one that has been in the air pocket and when the coolant stops moving it boils the coolant water.

If the fan clutch, coolant pump, thermostat and radiator are in good health low coolant is your problem.

Also low coolant will many times cause the gauge to indicate a little too high.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:
 
It takes some time but pretty straight forward.What I did was take off the exhaust manifold with the head so the bolts never had a chance to break off.It was well worth it to me.

The y pipe bolts to the manifold also have a rather bad habit of breaking. I think you got lucky!
 
Ya have to fill the radiator WITH the heater turned on. AND you have to fill it till the thermostat opens and the temp is up to par. Lots of guys forget to do this and their engine has an air pocket in it that causes problems.

The boiling over after stopping indicates a particularly hot place in the engine, one that has been in the air pocket and when the coolant stops moving it boils the coolant water.

If the fan clutch, coolant pump, thermostat and radiator are in good health low coolant is your problem.

Also low coolant will many times cause the gauge to indicate a little too high.
Big JIm:hottubfun::wub:

Thanks for the info, didnt realize the heater has to be turned on. I will go back out here in a lil bit and start the truck with the cap off and let it warm up then turn the heater on and try to fill it. I may end up dumping all the fluid in the next few days (If I get time) and just flush the system best I can.

Again I appreciate your feed back :D
 
The last time I had the water pump off I put the hose on jet and shot high pressure water thru the block and thermostat hole on the manifold and was able to get all the brown crap out of there I think that was where alot of the cooling problems i was having were I think it settles in the block and dont allow the heat to transfer properly and when you stop the engine the hot block makes the coolant bubble. That is my theory anyway the radiator started leaking shortly after and I think that is why I was losing water pump seals the temp guage would jump way up shortly after stopping the engine.
 
Sounds a little like it. Is it eating coolant?


In this case....I would look at 2 options. A full junkyard engine replacement or a set of rebuilt heads...like off ebay. Ease and less hassel are the reasons.

The biggest problem are the exhaust bolts in any Ford V6 I've EVER worked on. Spray those suckers down with PB blaster for a week ahead. Will be the best thing you'll ever do. Alot better than having to get a broken bolt out of a cylinder head.

Special tools required, would be a T55 bit. A torque wrench. And fan/ fan clutch wrench set.
 
> or a set of rebuilt heads...like off ebay.
I saw those for 229 delivered with free shipping on sending the cores back. That seemed too good to be true. Has anyone tried those? That would be an incredible deal if it was for good, rebuilt heads.
 

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