4x4 5.0 swap with pics!

[ChrisR1S]

the shifter is 2 far forward for my liking

They're both getting modded. I want the shifter farther back an the 4x4 shifter has to be shortened its top high an is in my way

 

[fordmike1]

351w heads to a 302.............you are going to need the bolts with the shoulder from ARP.
Jegs or Summit have them.

You do not need the spacer washers for the head bolts. Ford put them heads on the explorers and didnt use them and the heads are not aluminum so no need for them I have two sets of them right off Explorer 5.0's and now they are on my 5.0 Stang and my 94 Ranger 5.0 conversion. No problems with either and yes I am using ARP blots on both of them.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Motor mounts finally done!! 164tooth bellhousing and bw1356 t-case (when mated together)will not fit under a ranger without some cutting That's been the most time consuming part of the actual swap. Deff like shoving an elephant in an ant hole

Oh an no cutting required on the heaterbox. Gotta love a bodylift!

Called the machine shop, block is finishing up machine work today, stoping by in a few to order a rebuild kit with hypereutectic pistons, cam, high flow oil pump, and all that other good stuff... SO im hoping this beast will be alive next moth just maybe Now its time to pull it all out and start getting it all cleaned up and painted

and as always a few random pics. all are just mockup parts.

 

[dangerranger83]

What if you had to take the valve covers off can you still do that with it being that close to the heater box?

Also seeing how close those are will having the engine moving and frame or body flex ever allow them to touch?

Looks good.

 

[Teddyzee]

What if you had to take the valve covers off can you still do that with it being that close to the heater box?

Also seeing how close those are will having the engine moving and frame or body flex ever allow them to touch?

Looks good.

Looks like tons of room. worst case scenario, it's four bolts to move the hear box a little.

 

[Mac]

You do not need the spacer washers for the head bolts. Ford put them heads on the explorers and didnt use them and the heads are not aluminum so no need for them I have two sets of them right off Explorer 5.0's and now they are on my 5.0 Stang and my 94 Ranger 5.0 conversion. No problems with either and yes I am using ARP blots on both of them.

Well those sure are GT-40 heads but if they indeed come off of a 351, someone must have drilled the bolt holes out to fit. Easy enough to measure dia.
Dave

 

[ChrisR1S]

What if you had to take the valve covers off can you still do that with it being that close to the heater box?

Also seeing how close those are will having the engine moving and frame or body flex ever allow them to touch?

Looks good.

I was thinking the same as teddyzee, The heaterbox is extremely easy to remove. IMO it should be plenty of room, I can easily slide my fingers in there. if its not enough room, i guess ill find out when this thing comes to life


Mac, the Heads supposedly came off of a '97 Lightning. They fit perfectly on the little locater things that are pushed in the corner of the head mounting surfaces so they cant move around any. IIRC its just that the bolt hole in the head is larger than that of the bolt itself. long as these little locater dowel thingys are used to keep the head from sliding around i think i should be fine?

 

[JoeyB]

What I found out about my build was even after doing a 2" body lift modifying the heater box was a must. I don't know how you're putting the engine in (with or without the trany), but if you use Duff headers you will need to install the driver side header and lower the engine in with the header on. I found I needed a little extra room to move the engine around to get it to fit. With the heater box modified it allowed for that extra room. Also, once I hooked everything up (driveshafts, T/C, etc.) the engine actually moved back a hair and with the heater box being modified it was no problem. If the engine is out, and you a have few extra hours you might want to do the mod. Just some food for your mind.

 

[liftedredranger]

take a couple pics of your headers wanta see how you cleared them with the frame and what not

 

[JoeyB]

Ok, I'll try to shoot a few more photos.

 

[JoeyB]

Here are a few more photos taken with a good camera. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/album.php?albumid=433

 

[ChrisR1S]

What I found out about my build was even after doing a 2" body lift modifying the heater box was a must. I don't know how you're putting the engine in (with or without the trany), but if you use Duff headers you will need to install the driver side header and lower the engine in with the header on. I found I needed a little extra room to move the engine around to get it to fit. With the heater box modified it allowed for that extra room. Also, once I hooked everything up (driveshafts, T/C, etc.) the engine actually moved back a hair and with the heater box being modified it was no problem. If the engine is out, and you a have few extra hours you might want to do the mod. Just some food for your mind.

I didn't put my box in place until the motor was already in. Its like 4bolts and it pops right off, so i figure why not just take it off when dropping the motor in? Gives you all that extra room and don't have to worry about crushing it. So when i put the actual motor in the engine bay will be empty.

And the extra pictures are great. Duffs look good in there. Only thing im not a fan of is redoing the drain plug location. Im acting like a fickle female deciding what to do with headers

 

[dagoof]

Great thread.

This makes me want to post up some of my pictures too.

It's kind of cool to see others go through the same problems. Before I found this website, I thought i was the only one that was going through all of this stuff.

 

[JoeyB]

I didn't put my box in place until the motor was already in. Its like 4bolts and it pops right off, so i figure why not just take it off when dropping the motor in? Gives you all that extra room and don't have to worry about crushing it. So when i put the actual motor in the engine bay will be empty.

Im acting like a fickle female deciding what to do with headers

That's true about the heat box. But, I have taken my valve covers off a few times monkeying around and it's nice to be able to do that in a few short minutes without having to remove the heat box first. Do as you wish it's your build.

Let me tell you my story about my drain plug. Classic example that every build is different. If I would have taken the time to hook everything up before making decision to modify the oil plug, I would have found out I did not need to move it. It's fine after I got everything hooked up. Who knows, maybe you'll have the same luck I did, but you'll realize it before you go drilling and welding.

 

[ChrisR1S]

Joey, I actually looked at the oil pan today thinking about the Duffs, and yeah my drain plug looks to be almost where you relocated yours too
Because it looks to me like the header should run like between the bell and the oil pan in that little "valley". So no relocation should be needed

An its time to think about hoses and lines; vaccum lines, fuel line, Radiator hoses, heater hoses, Oil lines. I want to run the braided lines but i know nothing about them having no prior experience with them. Is There a reccomended brand ? Method of cutting/installing? Essentially educate me haha