96 Ranger 2.3L Won't Start

[Rocker3829]

also don't rule anything out. Earl may have been right about it being the clutch switch.

Gotch ya, I'll definitely keep everything open while I"m doing this.

 

[hebrewdiver]

I could use some help as well.. I am having the same problem. I changed the relay on the fender well but no luck just a single click when I try to start. I ran a wire from the battery to the solenoid on top of the starter turned the switch and it started right up. so which do you think is bad the solenoid on top of the starter or the relay? Remember the relay is brand new. I'm gonna take it off the truck tommorow and see what happens

 

[modelageek]

I am thinking clutch switch myself now. if i was you before i put in the ignition switch I would test for power at the clutch switch. you have a manual on page 12-29 the diagram shows what color wire is hot at the clutch switch. check that for power if you have power there the ignition switch is fine. maybe you have an anti theft device and you did not know it

Did you just get the truck. maybe it has an anti theft device and when you disconnected the battery to do the clutch it shut off

 

[Bryan22]

hebrew.... go smack the starter with a hammer. seriously. also take the time to read through this whole thread, im sure ur answer is in here somewhere.

 

[Rocker3829]

I could use some help as well.. I am having the same problem. I changed the relay on the fender well but no luck just a single click when I try to start. I ran a wire from the battery to the solenoid on top of the starter turned the switch and it started right up. so which do you think is bad the solenoid on top of the starter or the relay? Remember the relay is brand new. I'm gonna take it off the truck tommorow and see what happens

Could be the solenoid but before you buy a new one of those, double check all your grounds (the 3 with the negative cable, as well as the ones that are on the body inside the engine bay, don't forget you will have one braided wire that it grounded to the body as well as to the engine block, you will have two grounds to the engine block as well) and clean them.


I can't seem to get my started again from jumpin the fender relay, but I still have 3 grounds I can check and clean again before I say it won't start again. My thing is just getting, as modelageek says, is the starter control circuit. I'm readying .03 volts at the clutch switch hot at all times wire (red/light blue) as well as .03 volts at the ignition wire on the fender relay (also a red/light blue wire, the "boot").

 

[Rocker3829]

I just got back in from installin a new ignition switch and I still can't get the truck to crank from the ignition, but I now get it to start from the jumpin the fender relay everything now. I've traced power from the clutch switch and the ignition wire at the relay and I get very little voltage (.03 volts). Any tips for this situation? I have no idea if .03 is a good thing or a bad thing (could be me just not being able to get a reading with my multimeter very well and I also do not have a test light, I might buy one and see if I can see if there is enough power going through those when starting to start the truck, but at this point obviously not by itself)

 

[pocket-rocket]

Power should go from the ignition switch > clutch switch > fender solenoid > starter all in series. Sorry I haven't been back for a bit to chime in on this. Simple electrical theory. Put stuff in series and if it all is good you have a circuit. Break the circuit any where in that point (bad part, bad wire, ect) and you no longer have an operating circuit.

Here is a scan from the Ford electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual factory service manual for my 94 (not sure how much would be different since your 96 should be OBDII)

Actually, use this diagram, I whited out automatic trans stuff...

This diagram shows when you turn your key to "Start" battery voltage should go from the Red with Light Blue wire from the ignition switch into the clutch switch, out by way of the Pink wire which splices with the Red with Light Blue wire that goes to the fender mounted starter relay. To check voltage on these wires, ground the black lead of your meter and probe the back of the sockets with the red. I hope this helps. Oh, and btw, as far as my manual goes, ebay FTW and ALWAYS make sure your truck is in neutral before jumping the fender mounted relay or the solenoid on the starter itself. I also broke my fender mounted relay jump starting it with the tire iron I used to beat my starter with, then broke the new one so I have to take it back. I would suggest using a 1/4 drive ratchet to install a new one since you can't torque the snot out of them causing the new relay to break.

 

[modelageek]

whoever said the clutch switch looks like they were right. I think it was Earl. I wonder if you somehow blew something out when changing the tranny that affected the starter solenoid( you replaced the starter solenoid? that was definitely bad right?) and the clutch switch. The thing that confuses me is that i always thought that if the clutch swithc was bad it would not even make the solenoid click. i wonder if it was letting just enough juice thr to click the starter solenoid.

 

[Rocker3829]

whoever said the clutch switch looks like they were right. I think it was Earl. I wonder if you somehow blew something out when changing the tranny that affected the starter solenoid( you replaced the starter solenoid? that was definitely bad right?) and the clutch switch. The thing that confuses me is that i always thought that if the clutch swithc was bad it would not even make the solenoid click. i wonder if it was letting just enough juice thr to click the starter solenoid.

Pocket rocket, appreciate those attached pics of the starting system, I've got a layout in the haynes manual but this also gives me something to compare it to (could be a little different due to mine bein a 96 and your's being a 94).

Modelageek, never had to replace the starer solenoid, just the fender relay. I'll try testing the clutch switch with the multimeter and see if I can get a reading when trying to start the truck. What voltage should I be getting to know if it is alright or not? Clutch switch is very easy to switch out so if I have to replace it it is not a problem (just wish they weren't $50 a pop)

 

[pocket-rocket]

I'm sure there will probably be some difference like I mentioned because you are OBDII and my 94 isn't. You should get the same as your battery voltage (maybe a little less, but not more than a half a volt I would say) from the clutch switch. Basically you have 2 switches in line between the fender relay and your battery to simplify it (ignition switch and clutch switch) and both have to be on at the same time for the starter relay to energize. Pics were no problem

 

[Rocker3829]

I'm sure there will probably be some difference like I mentioned because you are OBDII and my 94 isn't. You should get the same as your battery voltage (maybe a little less, but not more than a half a volt I would say) from the clutch switch. Basically you have 2 switches in line between the fender relay and your battery to simplify it (ignition switch and clutch switch) and both have to be on at the same time for the starter relay to energize. Pics were no problem

Understood, appreciate the insight, I've also checked power at fuse 24 (where the wire from the ignition switch goes to then goes to the clutch switch) and I'm reading 12.5 volts there (same as the positive battery cable at the relay) so I need to check the clutch switch, if that aint showing any volts I assume the clutch switch?

 

[Rocker3829]

I disconnected the clutch switch so I could get the multimeter hooked up to the correct wire at the clutch switch electrical connections and continually got about .15 volts (give or take .02 volts) each of the 10 times I tested it when turning the key. I should now believe the culprit to be the switch correct? I have 12.5 volts measured at the fuse 24 (the ignition switch runs to fuse 24 then to the clutch switch and then to the relay) so I believe it to be the clutch switch.

 

[modelageek]

If you are testing the wire at the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch and the ignition is at start you should have 12v if you don't the wire is bad or you have a rap module that is not closing

 

[Rocker3829]

If you are testing the wire at the clutch switch that comes from the ignition switch and the ignition is at start you should have 12v if you don't the wire is bad or you have a rap module that is not closing

I believe I was testing the wire at the clutch switch that came from the ignition switch, but I just looked at the starting system again and it says white/pink or red/light blue wire, I only tested the red/light blue one, I'll double check that one as well as the white/pink one (though I don't think the White/pink wire is it because the wire that goes from the clutch switch to the relay is red/light blue, but I'll check anyway)

 

[Rocker3829]

Went back out and tested the wires again (it's definitely the red/light blue one since I have a manual tranny) and once I found a better ground to use it still is giving me between .10 and .15 volts, so it appears that the wire is the culprit?