changed my clutch

[sparky]

After owning the truck for 12 years and 210K miles (truck is 1993) I changed out the clutch. It really was a slave cylinder problem and the clutch didn't look bad at all, but I went ahead and changed it anyway.

Whats up with the engineers doing some of the things they do? For example, this is a 3.0 engine and they put the o2 senser connection up between the back of the heads and the firewall, you cannot get to it without a lot of work, if you where just changing them.

Anyway, I had to drill out the rivets that hold the front cross member in and then drop the cross member down, then took the exhaust loose and dropped it down. Then the driveshaft followed by the rear cross member. The trans was a little hard to get out with that body seam in the way, that got folded over for the install. Overall it wasn't that bad of a job, just don't get in a hurry. I'll see if I can get a few pics to work.

Also changed the shiftrail plugs whilr I was at it.


Cross member removed



Started with small bit and then went up in size.



Pilot bearing shot

 

[sparky]

Some more pics

New plugs




folded and painted seam

 

[sparky]

Befor cleaning


O2 senser connection


new sensers

 

[sparky]

Almost forgot the rail plugs, got them at napa, came in bag of 6.

 

[meatshieldchris]

thank you SO So much. I was going to dive into the same project in a week or so, and was wondering what I should do with the shift rail plugs. you answered my question better than I'd ever hoped.

How big of a hole is in the center of the pilot bearing? gotta make sure I have a puller small enough to get in there.

 

[meatshieldchris]

quick question: is it a 4x4? if so, did you have to remove the transfer case to get it out? if you didn't, if you would have would it have come out easier?

 

[sparky]

The hole in the pilot bearing is really small, since the bearings were falling out I got 2 of my puller jaws to grab and pulled it out. This is the puller I used http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876

Mine is not 4x4, but I think you will be better off pulling the t-case then pull the trans.
And you're welcome.

 

[gw33gp]

You can pull the transmission without removing the transfer case but I think it would be easier to do it if you remove the transfer case first.

I just did a clutch job on my Ranger and did it without removing the transfer case from the transmission. The transfer case is offset and causes the transmission to rotate to the left, even with a transmission jack. This was not a problem during removal but did present a minor problem during install. I bought a gasket just in case I decided to remove the transfer case but didn't want to take a chance of damaging the transfer case bolts. Hind site tells me there would most likely not have been a problem with the bolts.

I ended up taking a little longer to install the transmission with the transfer case on but it would have also taken more time to remove the transfer case. I am not sure which way I would do it the next time but am leaning toward removing the transfer case.

 

[meatshieldchris]

Does any fluid come out when you remove the transfercase? If so, which? The transfer case oil, or the transmission oil? It doesn't look like there's a gasket on mine, just RTV

 

[gw33gp]

I have never pulled a transfer case but I think there are oil seals to keep the area between the transmission and transfer case dry. I think the gasket is there to prevent metal to metal contact. RTV should work too.

 

[cargs]

Does any fluid come out when you remove the transfercase? If so, which? The transfer case oil, or the transmission oil? It doesn't look like there's a gasket on mine, just RTV

no there shouldn't be any fluid between the trans and the transfer case, there are seals on both sides. i recommend getting a new trans/t-case gasket from ford.

also you don't have to remove the radius arm cross member, probably easier to but not required.