Project black betty(aka money pit)

[dangerranger83]

They are going to get on you for that dent? It doesn't even hold the truck up. O well, I didn't know that where you live they require vehicle inspections. My state does nothing, thank god my truck wouldn't pass any test. As for the dent beat it out, pull it out, put bondo on it to cover it up.

Hold on, is that a FRAM filter I spy? You use FRAM too. Why a FRAM and K&N? Why not just FRAM filters? As for oil use what you want, I use Pennzoil. I see no point in using synthetic oil, I change mine every 3,000 miles no matter what. I just use the high milage stuff. As for FRAM filters , I use the normal kind. Never had a problem with them. People say FRAM was giving them low oil pressure so they switched over to another kind and it gave them more pressure, but all thats doing is not flitering it as well as it should be. Thats all my opinoin though.

Anyways how are you going to get the drive shaft to work with such different U-joints? I'm going to be finding out soon huuuu?

 

[jaymegriffiths]

They are going to get on you for that dent? It doesn't even hold the truck up. O well, I didn't know that where you live they require vehicle inspections. My state does nothing, thank god my truck wouldn't pass any test. As for the dent beat it out, pull it out, put bondo on it to cover it up.

Hold on, is that a FRAM filter I spy? You use FRAM too. Why a FRAM and K&N? Why not just FRAM filters? As for oil use what you want, I use Pennzoil. I see no point in using synthetic oil, I change mine every 3,000 miles no matter what. I just use the high milage stuff. As for FRAM filters , I use the normal kind. Never had a problem with them. People say FRAM was giving them low oil pressure so they switched over to another kind and it gave them more pressure, but all thats doing is not flitering it as well as it should be. Thats all my opinoin though.

Anyways how are you going to get the drive shaft to work with such different U-joints? I'm going to be finding out soon huuuu?

ya ill get a joint that has 2 different sized sides on it. as for the fram, its the highest end fram, sythentic type, and i only got it cause there was only 1 k+n. soo ill put the fram on the 4x4 cause that 2.9 sucks anyways. the hill up the driveway to my grandmas farm where its parked, the 4x4 couldn't hold 2nd gear, and my 2wd easily tore up it in 3rd. its sad. but i may have a teeny crack in the head or gasket cause i think im gettin antifreeze in my cylinders... eee.
and the reason i got synthetic is cause it was on sale for cheaper than high milage so why not. piad 75 bux for 3 gallons. we dont have like yearly inspections, just it was a total loss vehicle, ready to be scrapped and it was bought back for parts, but i couldn't let them wreck a good ranger, so... also im gonna know by tomorrow if this driveshaft is gonna work.

 

[dangerranger83]

Its that expensive for normal oil that the synthetic was cheaper??? A 5 quart jug of Pennzoil high mileage is $12.50 at walmart. Synthetic starts at 25 bucks. Man are you being ripped off.

So basicly you got the truck with a salvage title. Now I understand, my sisters is the same way. She hit a deer and reported it, they totaled her exploder, she bought it back and made money in the process. Point is it still drives, without a grill, busted head lights, and a messed up bumper which is all going to be fixed soon.

Thanks for saving a Ranger, it deserves another chance.

As for thinking it has a cracked head, blown hed gasket, etc.... check coolant for oil, and vise versa. Also compression check it too.

As for the 4x4 sucking, your right about the engine and 2.9's sucking, put a 2.8 in it with the mods that I have done to mine, it will thank you.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Its that expensive for normal oil that the synthetic was cheaper??? A 5 quart jug of Pennzoil high mileage is $12.50 at walmart. Synthetic starts at 25 bucks. Man are you being ripped off.

So basicly you got the truck with a salvage title. Now I understand, my sisters is the same way. She hit a deer and reported it, they totaled her exploder, she bought it back and made money in the process. Point is it still drives, without a grill, busted head lights, and a messed up bumper which is all going to be fixed soon.

Thanks for saving a Ranger, it deserves another chance.

As for thinking it has a cracked head, blown hed gasket, etc.... check coolant for oil, and vise versa. Also compression check it too.

As for the 4x4 sucking, your right about the engine and 2.9's sucking, put a 2.8 in it with the mods that I have done to mine, it will thank you.

haha go from fuel injected to carbed? im thinkin no thx. i just need a better 2.9, aka 4.0. and i will compression test soon. also, the penzoil high milage at can tire is 26.99 and synthetic WAS 41.99, on for 26.99(15.00 off) so i paid 75 bux for 3 gallons, which in my opinion for sythetic is a good deal. especially syntec. i normally buy cheap but figured i'd try synthetic. also, this whole driveshaft situation is pissing me off. i cont make the driveshaft work without changing the pinion yoke on my 7.5, which means i have to find a pinion yoke off a 99 or equivalent... gay

 

[dangerranger83]

What do you mean from fuel injection to carb? Mine isn't carbed, its TBI or fuel injected remember? You aleady have the fuel system set-up for it. But ya a 4.0 would be nice to but watch out for craked heads on those.

Yes you can make it work. Make a hybrid of the two put the 7.5 drive shaft end and U-joints on the new shaft. Just tell a drive shaft place what you want done and they should be able to do it as long as you provied the mesurements.

From what you are saying about the oil, guess you did get a good deal. I'd try K&N but I have to order it and that would cost more money then needed to change oil.

BTW liked the cheap suspension drop thread you made.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

What do you mean from fuel injection to carb? Mine isn't carbed, its TBI or fuel injected remember? You aleady have the fuel system set-up for it. But ya a 4.0 would be nice to but watch out for craked heads on those.

Yes you can make it work. Make a hybrid of the two put the 7.5 drive shaft end and U-joints on the new shaft. Just tell a drive shaft place what you want done and they should be able to do it as long as you provied the mesurements.

From what you are saying about the oil, guess you did get a good deal. I'd try K&N but I have to order it and that would cost more money then needed to change oil.

BTW liked the cheap suspension drop thread you made.

haha i noticed. the little feeling inside when i think of something clever makes me happy. haha as to the filter, it was on the shelf at can tire, for a buck less than the top end fram, wish there was two. changed the oil tonight. just took one gallon/4.4 litre jug. also, according to the guys at a specialty u-joint shop, they connot be mated. there is a HUGE size difference between the two. he suggested i change the pinion joke.
i should ask him to demonstrate exactly how thats done lol. anywho! i totally forgot tbi. sorry. also, would v8 jeep cherokee's (ie new ones) have d44's? i notice a jeep at the wrecker nearby with a missing front. hmmm wonder where that went. plus, now i dont have enough cash to pay for the body work. maybe have to dig into my savings. sigh.. goodbye ktm 450.

 

[dangerranger83]

Doing that is going to be more work then what is needed. Would that drive shaft bolt up to an 8.8 or does it have the same yoke as the 7.5. That might be a beeter solution if it works plus you get an up grade.

As for a v8 jeep, they may have the D44 but your going to run into the CAD problem and the Jeep D44 may be to wide. I just read a thread that a guy put a D44 under his truck but narrowed it and that took alot of money and time and fabing skills to do. But watching everybody else do there SAS makes me want to start mine but I'm not going to until I get all the parts AHHHHHH!!!! But I cant rush it.

Whatever choice you make I stand behind your decission and here to help you out and give my opinion and watch the entire build when it starts.

I just had a brain fart and forgot what I needed the welder back for.........I had to think about it.....man I'm having one of those days.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Doing that is going to be more work then what is needed. Would that drive shaft bolt up to an 8.8 or does it have the same yoke as the 7.5. That might be a beeter solution if it works plus you get an up grade.

As for a v8 jeep, they may have the D44 but your going to run into the CAD problem and the Jeep D44 may be to wide. I just read a thread that a guy put a D44 under his truck but narrowed it and that took alot of money and time and fabing skills to do. But watching everybody else do there SAS makes me want to start mine but I'm not going to until I get all the parts AHHHHHH!!!! But I cant rush it.

Whatever choice you make I stand behind your decission and here to help you out and give my opinion and watch the entire build when it starts.

I just had a brain fart and forgot what I needed the welder back for.........I had to think about it.....man I'm having one of those days.

haha ya. i've read all the d44 stuff and i frm what ive read its farily easy to narrow a d44...
ya i dont wanna rush my build... the 8.8 would have to have the same gear ratio, and i already got a trac lok for the 7.5 even tho i thought it was a real posi

 

[dangerranger83]

Thankfully I have a detroit locker for the rear. I would love an air locker in the rear, but I'll keep what it has in it already. Narrowing a shaft looks easy, but like everything it easier said then done. I'd find a project with somebody that did a D44 and narrowed it and watch what they did. The expensive and hard part would be the custom axles for it and getting the messurements correct for it.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Thankfully I have a detroit locker for the rear. I would love an air locker in the rear, but I'll keep what it has in it already. Narrowing a shaft looks easy, but like everything it easier said then done. I'd find a project with somebody that did a D44 and narrowed it and watch what they did. The expensive and hard part would be the custom axles for it and getting the messurements correct for it.

from what i've read its as easy as just cutting them yourself and having them resplined...
but i dunno never done it. i dont even know if i would narrow it. full width looks good too.

 

[dangerranger83]

But is full width legal for street use or just used for off roading where your at? But if for only off roading then it would have to be trailered around if not street legal.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

But is full width legal for street use or just used for off roading where your at? But if for only off roading then it would have to be trailered around if not street legal.

the states must be WAY more strict then here. ive seen guys running around with no box, and other retarded stuff. like trucks with no doors. or redneck convertibles. cops here wouldn't pull me over for full widths.

 

[dangerranger83]

Then you ae good to go with full widths. Ya the states can be pretty strict when it comes to vehicles. Some states do vehicle inspections, some do smog on different levels, some dont do any at all, like mine. Here in the states they will get you for anything if they fell like it. Plus with full widths give you more stability. I've noticed we've done more talking then building but money is tight for me so thats why I've slowed down until I get the welder back, that isn't going to cost me anything to do. When I get that 2.3 engine of mine sold then I can get the rest of the stuff to do my SAS. I'll get it onto craigs list Monday when I put my brother in laws rims, on they are nice and made for swamp tires, mud tires, etc.... Bad part is he wont ship them so hes going to be screwing himself.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Then you ae good to go with full widths. Ya the states can be pretty strict when it comes to vehicles. Some states do vehicle inspections, some do smog on different levels, some dont do any at all, like mine. Here in the states they will get you for anything if they fell like it. Plus with full widths give you more stability. I've noticed we've done more talking then building but money is tight for me so thats why I've slowed down until I get the welder back, that isn't going to cost me anything to do. When I get that 2.3 engine of mine sold then I can get the rest of the stuff to do my SAS. I'll get it onto craigs list Monday when I put my brother in laws rims, on they are nice and made for swamp tires, mud tires, etc.... Bad part is he wont ship them so hes going to be screwing himself.

i noticed were flappin jaw and not gettin much done, but even if i wasn't just wastin time talkin i still wouldn't get anything done cause im too concentrated on saving for a new truck and tryin to get my truck back to the city. but until this explorer's either gone or fixed theres no room here for my truck. theres 10 vehicles on my single lane driveway/in the street and 1 in the garage. TOO MANY

 

[dangerranger83]

Same situation until I can get my 2.3 motor sold, I can't get much done. But its great to talk and shoot the shit in the mean time.