My B2 has a skid plate that runs under the transfer case & helps support the weight, it has two bolts on each side that bolt it up to the underside of the frame. It is just behind the trans crossmember.
I got some flat washers (with big enough holes for the bolts to go through) & stacked them to app 1/4". Put them between the skid plate & the frame just where the bolts are & bolted them back up. (Where the skid plate was flush against the frame there will now be a 1/4" gap except where the bolts & washers are.) The weight of the transfer case drops the tail end of the transfer case giving less angle to the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft will have a little more angle but will be perfectly fine. Be careful...that skid plate is heavier than it looks.Keep in mind, this is how I did my B2 & I am not sure if the ranger is the same.
When you do the 4" lift, I would personally leave the coil spacers off as they will cause the camber to be way off. The kit will come with drop brackets to keep it pretty close, but the extra height caused by the coil spacers will more than likely cause the tops of the tires to lean out. You can fix this but it can be a pain. From my experience the 4" lift is perfect for these trucks & the 3" body lift gives it that little extra without the driveline complications.
As far as height, my B2 roof with 4" susp., 3" body, & 33" Swampers is taller than me & I am 6'0. With the same on your ranger, add roughly 9"-10" to the top of your roof & you will have a "rough" estimate.
I keep hoping someone with a ranger will get in here & let you know if something is different, but I think they are pretty close to the same.
I am no expert, just sharing my 15 yrs of trial & error.