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Pics/Opinions of Rough Country 4" lift on 1st Gen Ranger


87Sturd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
54
City
Washington
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Looking for some pics and opinions on this lift kit. Keep in mind I wont be doing any extreme off roading. Just a weekend warrior and to have some fun.

Also, im looking into doing either this 4"lift or a 6" lift. What needs to be modified when lifting? Such as brake lines, etc.
 
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I have been running the Rough Country 4" lift on my 84 B2 for a very long time. I have not been easy on it & have had no problems. You can extend your brake lines if you want but you don't have to, I just moved the point where the brake line brackets bolt up to give more movement,If I'm not mistaking,it shows you where to move them in the install instructions for the kit.

I'm not familiar with the ranger driveshaft setup, but on my B2 all I did was lower the transfer case 1/4 " & I have had no problems with driveshaft angles.

Basically you don't have to modify anything, the biggest pain is getting off the brackets on the frontend to install the drop brackets.

The tan B2 in my avatar is the 4" lift with a 3" body lift. Good luck.:headbang:
 
I have seen them knock holes through the diff with the passenger beam drop bracket. Im sure you can grind it a little or something. If you have the Dana28 you may not have a problem cause its smaller.
 
B2Addict-Thanks for your input. Do you think I will have to mess with the transfer case? Im planning on the 3" body lift first, followed by coil spacers and rear shackles and finally a lift kit(when I can afford it:annoyed:).

DangerRanger- I thought RC had fixed this problem? Anyway the front end is stock. So, im guessing that its a Dana28?
 
Your transfer case will be fine with the body lift (& or )shackles & spacers. It all has to do with driveshaft angles as to whether it would benefit you to lower the transfer case or not, & neither of those mods will effect that enough to worry about.

If you go with the 4" suspension,you may or may not need it.
I ran without the transfer case lowered for years & with few problems, but when I started driving it everyday, the angle on the driveshaft was too much for the U joints. Keep in mind, mine is a B2 & I am not sure how different the ranger will be.

If the transfer case crossmember is similar to mine, it is very easy to lower it down just a 1/4 inch or so if need be.:icon_thumby:
 
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Your transfer case will be fine with the body lift (& or )shackles & spacers. It all has to do with driveshaft angles as to whether it would benefit you to lower the transfer case or not, & neither of those mods will effect that enough to worry about.

If you go with the 4" suspension,you may or may not need it.
I ran without the transfer case lowered for years & with few problems, but when I started driving it everyday, the angle on the driveshaft was too much for the U joints. Keep in mind, mine is a B2 & I am not sure how different the ranger will be.

If the transfer case crossmember is similar to mine, it is very easy to lower it down just a 1/4 inch or so if need be.:icon_thumby:


How do you lower the transfer case? And is that the only major thing that needs to be done when lifting 4-6"? Also, whats the max clearance for your b2? Im just asking because my garage entrance is only 7feet tall, but the ranger is shorter than the b2 anyway right? Just wondering if id be able to clear my garage when I do the suspension lift, coil spacers, rear shackles and body lift.
 
How do you lower the transfer case? And is that the only major thing that needs to be done when lifting 4-6"? Also, whats the max clearance for your b2? Im just asking because my garage entrance is only 7feet tall, but the ranger is shorter than the b2 anyway right? Just wondering if id be able to clear my garage when I do the suspension lift, coil spacers, rear shackles and body lift.

My B2 has a skid plate that runs under the transfer case & helps support the weight, it has two bolts on each side that bolt it up to the underside of the frame. It is just behind the trans crossmember.

I got some flat washers (with big enough holes for the bolts to go through) & stacked them to app 1/4". Put them between the skid plate & the frame just where the bolts are & bolted them back up. (Where the skid plate was flush against the frame there will now be a 1/4" gap except where the bolts & washers are.) The weight of the transfer case drops the tail end of the transfer case giving less angle to the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft will have a little more angle but will be perfectly fine. Be careful...that skid plate is heavier than it looks.Keep in mind, this is how I did my B2 & I am not sure if the ranger is the same.

When you do the 4" lift, I would personally leave the coil spacers off as they will cause the camber to be way off. The kit will come with drop brackets to keep it pretty close, but the extra height caused by the coil spacers will more than likely cause the tops of the tires to lean out. You can fix this but it can be a pain. From my experience the 4" lift is perfect for these trucks & the 3" body lift gives it that little extra without the driveline complications.

As far as height, my B2 roof with 4" susp., 3" body, & 33" Swampers is taller than me & I am 6'0. With the same on your ranger, add roughly 9"-10" to the top of your roof & you will have a "rough" estimate.

I keep hoping someone with a ranger will get in here & let you know if something is different, but I think they are pretty close to the same.
I am no expert, just sharing my 15 yrs of trial & error. :icon_cheers:
 
My B2 has a skid plate that runs under the transfer case & helps support the weight, it has two bolts on each side that bolt it up to the underside of the frame. It is just behind the trans crossmember.

I got some flat washers (with big enough holes for the bolts to go through) & stacked them to app 1/4". Put them between the skid plate & the frame just where the bolts are & bolted them back up. (Where the skid plate was flush against the frame there will now be a 1/4" gap except where the bolts & washers are.) The weight of the transfer case drops the tail end of the transfer case giving less angle to the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft will have a little more angle but will be perfectly fine. Be careful...that skid plate is heavier than it looks.Keep in mind, this is how I did my B2 & I am not sure if the ranger is the same.

When you do the 4" lift, I would personally leave the coil spacers off as they will cause the camber to be way off. The kit will come with drop brackets to keep it pretty close, but the extra height caused by the coil spacers will more than likely cause the tops of the tires to lean out. You can fix this but it can be a pain. From my experience the 4" lift is perfect for these trucks & the 3" body lift gives it that little extra without the driveline complications.

As far as height, my B2 roof with 4" susp., 3" body, & 33" Swampers is taller than me & I am 6'0. With the same on your ranger, add roughly 9"-10" to the top of your roof & you will have a "rough" estimate.

I keep hoping someone with a ranger will get in here & let you know if something is different, but I think they are pretty close to the same.
I am no expert, just sharing my 15 yrs of trial & error. :icon_cheers:

Thanks for the info B2! I hope my transfer case will be ok. Im gonna pickup a RC lift kit...when I get the extra money. So, im just trying to figure out what needs to be done in advance. So, I can save up enough for everything. Im gonna do the 3" body lift real soon. I have about 15-16" from the top of my roof to the top of my garage entrance, I should be ok.:icon_twisted:
 
Thanks for the info B2! I hope my transfer case will be ok. Im gonna pickup a RC lift kit...when I get the extra money. So, im just trying to figure out what needs to be done in advance. So, I can save up enough for everything. Im gonna do the 3" body lift real soon. I have about 15-16" from the top of my roof to the top of my garage entrance, I should be ok.:icon_twisted:

No problem bro! I do what I can. Need to know anything else post it in here or send me a p.m. if you want. I will do my best! Good luck! :icon_thumby:
 
Update on that transfer case "lowering" post I did.

I keep forgetting that I actually changed my 84 body onto an 85 frame a couple years ago, so technically the drivetrain is 85, but that doesn't really matter. But this does: I took my other BII (it is all 85 & not lifted yet)to my dads today to fix a bad u-joint(he has a 2 bay shop with a lift & bookoo tools) While I was under there I noticed the transfer case does not touch the transfer case crossmember(skid plate) at all, whereas my other does & it helps support the weight.

Therefore,dropping the skid plate on the one that does not touch would obviously do nothing to lower the tail of the trans/transfer case. The transfer case in this one looks smaller than my other one, But I did not get home till late tonight so didn't compare them. I will tomm. & find out.

I am confused!! :icon_confused: Anybody know if they used two different T/cases in 85??? Both are 5 spds.
 
Haven't used or seen the Rough Country 4" lift but I used a 4" Skyjacker, w/rear leafs, on my '88 5.0L Ranger, it was an easy install, held up under the extra weight of the 5.0L and was in the truck for 5 years before I sold the truck.
The guy that bought the truck had a problem and transfered the suspension and the 5.0 to a 90 Ranger and it is still going strong today after a long time in use.
I alos used teh SuperLift Super-Runner Steering Setup (a really good kit to install) and their Trac-Bar setup both great products.
Just something to think about.
 

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