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What did YOU do today?


9 degrees here. only got 2” of snow yesterday but had to go out & play in it. I wasn’t expecting the tractor to start but it did, took a few seconds to build oil pressure & a good 10 min before it wanted to run at a idle with the clutch out.

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Went to get new tires on the F-150 at Sams. They had the best price I could find and free install. Ordered new tire sensors when I ordered the tires last weekend.

"we can't replace your tires, your lugnuts are swelled too much to get a socket on" :icon_confused:

I took dad's F-150 to the tire shop a couple months ago to get the air topped off because I was busy and didn't feel like dragging out the stuff from the shop. Guy running the pressure machine tried to tell me that the ones on this truck were bulged too. I just shook my head and left once he did his job.

It's a 21 F-150 with less than 20k miles on the odometer at the time. Now I'm not going to say that lug nuts can't bulge, but it isn;t going to be on a low mile, 4 year old truck, that has never seen real winter weather. Besides, he didn't have shit on him to be able to check for "bulge" with, just read off what that little handheld device he was carrying said. I'll still buy my tires at that place, but the stupid shit that they try to upsell on...

The real art is how none of your pictures have your foot prints in the snow...

Pretty tricky

It's AI, it's all AI. There is no tractor, there is no Rascan, it's just AI.


Seriously though, those are great shots.
 
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This and tire shops typically over tightening lug nuts is why I have my own tire machine. I didn’t really want to get into doing tires, but I got really tired of headaches. Now if there’s a problem it’s on me.

Dad has one but won't take over a 16 or maybe 16.5 wheel. My 18's need not apply.

I doubt his bubble balancer has the die for the goofy F-150 wheel bolt pattern either.
 
The real art is how none of your pictures have your foot prints in the snow...

Pretty tricky
I deliberately got off the other side of the tractor, walked behind it then out i. the yard to try & avoid that very thing. About froze my fingers since I had to have my gloves off to take pictures.
 
Dad has one but won't take over a 16 or maybe 16.5 wheel. My 18's need not apply.

I doubt his bubble balancer has the die for the goofy F-150 wheel bolt pattern either.
The Coats 10-10 that I own half of is like that. 14-17” rims and it’s best if they are steel rims. I got tired of that real quick and found a used rim clamp machine that will do up to like a 20” rim and up to a 36” tire.

For balancing I’ve gone to ceramic or glass beads in the tires. I have discovered that you want round beads though. I tried one of the commonly available ones that the one local tire shop uses but they were tiny glass blobs and they don’t seem to balance right. Think being really small and not round hinders their ability to spread out and do their job via centrifugal force. If you have your own tire machine, they last pretty much forever as long as you don’t have a blowout. The set of ceramic “off-road” beads (Innovative Balancing) that are in the tires of my F-150 have been in 3 sets of tires so far and are likely going in a 4th set at some point.
 
The Coats 10-10 that I own half of is like that. 14-17” rims and it’s best if they are steel rims. I got tired of that real quick and found a used rim clamp machine that will do up to like a 20” rim and up to a 36” tire.

For balancing I’ve gone to ceramic or glass beads in the tires. I have discovered that you want round beads though. I tried one of the commonly available ones that the one local tire shop uses but they were tiny glass blobs and they don’t seem to balance right. Think being really small and not round hinders their ability to spread out and do their job via centrifugal force. If you have your own tire machine, they last pretty much forever as long as you don’t have a blowout. The set of ceramic “off-road” beads (Innovative Balancing) that are in the tires of my F-150 have been in 3 sets of tires so far and are likely going in a 4th set at some point.

Dad's is a Coates 1010 also.

I had hoped to sneak up on a set of 17" painted alloys before I needed tires but didn't get it done. These have the fake chrome stuff so I am kind of leery about tearing them up.
 
Dad's is a Coates 1010 also.

I had hoped to sneak up on a set of 17" painted alloys before I needed tires but didn't get it done. These have the fake chrome stuff so I am kind of leery about tearing them up.
Yeah, that fake chrome stuff always looked like a problem waiting to happen to me.

Supposedly the 1010 will do 17” rims and with care you can do alloys on it, but the biggest I’ve ever done is a 16” on it and without modifications the bead breaker can damage alloy rims. I was going to build an adapter that I saw to do alloys with it but ended up just finding a rim clamp and calling it a day. I wanted to unload the 1010 but my buddy that owns half of it doesn’t. It’s not very useful for anything newer these days. Good machine and very simple though.
 
Yeah, that fake chrome stuff always looked like a problem waiting to happen to me.

Supposedly the 1010 will do 17” rims and with care you can do alloys on it, but the biggest I’ve ever done is a 16” on it and without modifications the bead breaker can damage alloy rims. I was going to build an adapter that I saw to do alloys with it but ended up just finding a rim clamp and calling it a day. I wanted to unload the 1010 but my buddy that owns half of it doesn’t. It’s not very useful for anything newer these days. Good machine and very simple though.

Dad loves his for old tractor and implement tires, it hardly sees a regular vehicle wheel lol.
 
After my earlier post I found a little motivations and continued on the house project for a bit. Got probably 90% of the linoleum cut out between the kitchen and utility room. So far I've only found a few spots that I need to cut out and replace. Can probably do it all with a couple sheets of 3/4" plywood and some boards cut to reinforce the seams from the bottom.

I've got an island mounted range in the middle of the kitchen, so disconnecting that and moving the island is probably the next big step. Fortunately it looks like not other cabinetry will need to be moved (so far). Still need to move the washer and dryer so I can remove linoleum and check the floor under them. I know there is one spot in front of dryer by back door that is bad, but I think that is all. May have to go into the wall there to repair, but shouldn't be much and I wanted to replace the mobile home style door with a house style anyway. I should probably pull the linoleum in the the bathroom too, it's on the other side of the wall from the water heater, in the opposite direction of the kitchen. I'm in no hurry to find issues there, but maybe I should be?

Still up in the air on how I'm going to handle the water heater closet. It is sized for the smallest diameter water heater manufactured (that's locally available) which limits capacity, and it had a nailed on sheetrock access cover. Was probably screwed on at one point, but that's still not easy access to check up on it. Either the closet it going to go away and the water heater opened to the rest of the utility room, or it's going to get cut and framed for a closet door. What other damage I find will largely be responsible for making that decision.

Assuming that I don't find more damage, the repair shouldn't be too terrible. First step is let the subfloor plywood dry out for a bit. Cut out the rotted spots and patch in new. I'm going to level the few sagging spots, and do a 1/4 inch underlayment before going back with new flooring. Going to take some time and I won't get in a rush, but I should be able to handle all of it.

Once the repairs are made and a new water heater goes in, the next step will be new plumbing. The house was built in 1994/1995 before polybutalyene pipe was discontinued for new construction. I've already repaired several small leaks over the last 17 years around crimps at valves, and leaking valve stems. Usually a quick fix amounting to cutting off the old valve and installing a new one with sharkbite fittings. If I'm doing all of this work to the floor the leak prone poly is getting replaced before it has a chance to mess it up again. I'd like to not spend the money since I hope not to be here much longer, but it may still be a few years, and getting rid of the poly will be strong positive a selling point.
 

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