What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


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I haven't heard of too many warped intake manifolds so I'm pretty sure your luck should be ok there.

I forgot to note in my last post that there is now 3 Rangers in the parking lot at work, out of ~20 employees there's my '97, a '99 2.5 manual regular cab and the one I mentioned above.
 
I changed the thermostat in the Road Ranger after it wouldn’t warm up when it was cold up north.

When I opened it up, something on that truck I haven’t touched before, the thermostat was in backwards! I put in a 199° thermostat, facing the correct direction. 192 was spec.

Riddle me this: from the day I got that truck it has run extremely well, but it always had a little gurgle from the left bank of the 4.0. I won’t call it a miss, because even though that gurgle got soft and some times got loud and sloppy, and there’s always been soot in my left stack, it always has had steady power, and plenty of torque. I’ve changed virtually everything that controls the engine, except the injectors, and I’ve been assuming an injector was just letting too much fuel go in, which somebody explained would give it the gurgle and soot, but if the valves were opening and closing properly, you wouldn’t lose any torque, just a little bit of gas mileage.

Does that make sense? I guess I’ll see you after I drive it a while.
 
Drove the 1100 miles from our house to my son's. We left Wednesday at 11am, after my appointment, and stopped in Oklahoma city for the night. Got up and left the next day and got here around 4pm.

Trips are alot nicer when you aren't on a time frame because of worrying about making it there and back because of work.

I also picked up that super pro rear sway bar from another ranger guy in Oklahoma city. He ordered it because their site said it fit a ranger raptor, and it doesnt. They refunded him and said keep it since they are in Australia. I was going to give it to my son but he has a wrangler now so I will give it to my father in law as he has a 25 xlt.
 
Thanks for all your help. I was able to find a part on eBay. I bit the bullet and ordered a used one. I hope it fits and isn't also warped.
Soooo....
My son tells me the intake is actually is 40 miles away. So, he went and picked it up. It's completely the wrong intake. It's an intake off a 2013 Explorer. They listed it wrong. Now we have to return it and hope they have another because they don't offer refunds, only exchanges.
 
Ordered new rear shocks, again. The OE units were blown at 45k and I replaced them with plain old Monroe Gas.
Now I have almost 80k on the Monroes and it's a little bouncy and one is weeping a little oil so I figured I'd change them before it gets cold.
Here's the twist:
Rock Auto had them on clearance for $24 but only had one left so I ordered that. Then I searched the part number in Amazon and they were $56 there so I got one from them. Auto Zone and NAPA were over $90.
 
Ordered new rear shocks, again. The OE units were blown at 45k and I replaced them with plain old Monroe Gas.
Now I have almost 80k on the Monroes and it's a little bouncy and one is weeping a little oil so I figured I'd change them before it gets cold.
Here's the twist:
Rock Auto had them on clearance for $24 but only had one left so I ordered that. Then I searched the part number in Amazon and they were $56 there so I got one from them. Auto Zone and NAPA were over $90.

The NAPA regional warehouse is very close to me, and they have a sales counter. It’s always been great over the years, because they usually have whatever I need right there. But….

Their prices have just gone crazy in the last dozen years or so. Now being able to buy everything online, and places like rock auto and whatever having big discounts on old inventory, I have found it cheaper to keep an extra back up vehicle rather then to go to Napa or one of the local stores to buy parts.
 
I ordered a shifter bushing kit for the Road Ranger. It’s been shifting a little sloppy for a little while, but it really got bad during the trip back-and-forth up

Q: Apparently, the side pins have been dimpled with a punch or something like that to keep them from sliding out. I watched the video how to tap them out. The kit comes with new pins. Here’s the question.

What keeps those pins in place when I replace them? There’s no way to get at the ends to dimple them again. ???
 
I ordered a shifter bushing kit for the Road Ranger. It’s been shifting a little sloppy for a little while, but it really got bad during the trip back-and-forth up

Q: Apparently, the side pins have been dimpled with a punch or something like that to keep them from sliding out. I watched the video how to tap them out. The kit comes with new pins. Here’s the question.

What keeps those pins in place when I replace them? There’s no way to get at the ends to dimple them again. ???
They are not dimpled, they are a press fit, they have bigger shoulders toward the head/outside so just hammer them in until they stop and that's it, you're overthinking it :), they don't have any outward force on them so don't need further retention
 
They are not dimpled, they are a press fit, they have bigger shoulders toward the head/outside so just hammer them in until they stop and that's it, you're overthinking it :), they don't have any outward force on them so don't need further retention

Thanks. I haven’t had the boot off in a few years, and I’m still wondering how I could swing a hammer in there to tap them in, but I’m sure I’ll figure it out when I pull it apart.
 
Yeah, I don't remember how I did it on my '90 when I broke a pin (now THAT was a wobbly shifter) but I'm sure you'll have something to do it, probably involved a pry bar against the head of the pin and hammered on the prybar when I did it...
 
Does it have to be done in place?

I haven't done it in a long time either.
 
Does it have to be done in place?

I haven't done it in a long time either.

From the videos it looks pretty easy to reach everything without dropping the trans, even getting the pins out since you punch him from the inside out. And I bet it’s even pretty easy to slide the pin in in the space available, but I don’t see how I can apply any force to it to seat it, not much room on the outside, but I’m sure I’ll figure it out. Apparently millions have done it.
 
From the videos it looks pretty easy to reach everything without dropping the trans, even getting the pins out since you punch him from the inside out. And I bet it’s even pretty easy to slide the pin in in the space available, but I don’t see how I can apply any force to it to seat it, not much room on the outside, but I’m sure I’ll figure it out. Apparently millions have done it.
I must be thinking of something else. I thought you could put the trans in neutral, pull the shifter out, replace parts on the bench and reinstall the shifter. All through the hole in the floor.
 
My bad. I just took mine apart to refamiliarize myself. Hang on a sec. I'll figure out a procedure.
 

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