HELP Throttle Position Sensor

[Threedognight]

I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT it started running terrible. I changed the MAF also changed the idle control sensor. It was still running bad. I put a new throttle control sensor on it and it wouldn’t start. It would just turn over I unplugged the new TPS and it would start, but it was still running bad. Any ideas? I’m going crazy.

 

[Threedognight]

I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0 XLT it started running terrible. I changed the MAF also changed the idle control sensor. It was still running bad. I put a new throttle control sensor on it and it wouldn’t start. It would just turn over I unplugged the new TPS and it would start, but it was still running bad. Any ideas? I’m going crazy.

I had a code that came up, said Bank two running lean

 

[scotts90ranger]

You really need to put the parts cannon down and do some actual troubleshooting, you really never know if the new parts are good anymore... plus it just makes it harder to mix in even more variables!

Put the old TPS back on, it sounds like the replacement was bad or wrong in some way

If you have some type of OBD II reader and look at some inputs that would help, get it running and warmed up. Some easy things to look at are the bank 1 and 2 fuel trim, the short term should be pretty floppy but move around 1 and stay within say 15% so from .85-1.15, if it hangs out one side or the other then there's an issue, one bank running lean like you're seeing could be a bad O2 sensor, get a new Bosch unit if possible probably one for each side, those are a wear item and at 23 years old fair to say they're about dead...

Next is the MAF reading, rule of thumb at idle it should read about the displacement, so 3L would be about 3 g/sec, wouldn't be bad to get a can of MAF cleaner and clean the stock one if you still have it or double check the one you got.

It's kinda semantics but a lot of what you are calling sensors are controllers and such... the IAC is a stepper motor thing that bypasses air, not a sensor. The TPS isn't used much other than when 100% at startup gives the "clear flood" signal to the computer so if you got the wrong one (some look the same but read opposite conveniently) it would read 100% at the 0% position...

 

[Threedognight]

Thank you so much. I will try this in the morning.

 

[RobWigglezz]

As mentioned, I would put all the old stuff on and try to get a scan tool hooked up. Cleaning the MAF is easy and can do wonders. If you have a lap top, download ForScan and order a genuine Vgate vLinker FS from Amazon for 35 bucks. All the live data you need and you can save the logs to look at after a drive.

 

[Threedognight]

I got a new TPS and it started right up. It’s still running terrible. I can’t get it to put out a code though. I did find some type of plug thing that plugs into the manifold on bank 2. I had a joke in one of the heater hoses and it had been dripping down on it. It has two wires and both of them were missing an area of insulation and it looked like they were touching. I cleaned them and taped them. Also fixed both tee fittings with brass. I have new O2 sensors. Should I install them now?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

O2 sensors are only good for about 10 year/100k miles then the catalyst in them is basically used up

 

[Threedognight]

O2 sensors are only good for about 10 year/100k miles then the catalyst in them is basically used up

Oh wow did not know that. I’ve got another ranger that has 213,000 on it and they’ve never been changed. Thanks for the info

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oh wow did not know that. I’ve got another ranger that has 213,000 on it and they’ve never been changed. Thanks for the info

Also best to buy Bosch sensors and from a parts store or Rock Auto. The ones from Amazon and stuff are a mix of legit and false these days. Fake parts are becoming a real problem these days along with crap quality control. Which is another good reason why firing the parts cannon is usually a bad idea. Better to diagnose so you can find out quickly if you got a bad part by simply checking the diagnostics

 

[Threedognight]

Also best to buy Bosch sensors and from a parts store or Rock Auto. The ones from Amazon and stuff are a mix of legit and false these days. Fake parts are becoming a real problem these days along with crap quality control. Which is another good reason why firing the parts cannon is usually a bad idea. Better to diagnose so you can find out quickly if you got a bad part by simply checking the diagnostics

Yes. I found that out with the first TPS I bought. It came from Amazon. I bought one from advance auto and it fired right up. I have limited funds at the moment just got laid off a week ago. Figured I’d go the cheap route . I guess I’ll see what progress I’ll make today. Thank you

 

[sgtsandman]

Auto parts stores parts are a mixed bag if you can't get Motorcraft or a brand that makes their parts. Sometimes, it's what you have to do to get by.

Rock Auto seems to be the best deal to get real, quality parts. We posts up discount codes here when we get them to help lower the cost some.

Of course, there is the whole time thing as well. There are times you need a part now instead of when an online retailer can send it to you.

As far as Amazon, there are many things you can get from them that are great. Because of the whole fake brand name parts thing, I would avoid them for auto parts.

 

[Threedognight]

Auto parts stores parts are a mixed bag if you can't get Motorcraft or a brand that makes their parts. Sometimes, it's what you have to do to get by.

Rock Auto seems to be the best deal to get real, quality parts. We posts up discount codes here when we get them to help lower the cost some.

Of course, there is the whole time thing as well. There are times you need a part now instead of when an online retailer can send it to you.

As far as Amazon, there are many things you can get from them that are great. Because of the whole fake brand name parts thing, I would avoid them for auto parts.

Thank you for that information. It seems Amazon is only good for small engine parts