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Need HELP!


Joined
Jan 17, 2026
Messages
6
Points
1
City
Denham Springs
State - Country
LA - USA
Vehicle Year
2006
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
I've got a 2006 Ford Ranger 3.0L V6 2wd with 236,289miles. I bought the truck for my sons first vehicle. The seller told me it needed new heads. Got the truck home and did compression tests, both wet and dry. Confirmed that the seller was honest and ordered new heads and bolts.
I replaced the heads and bolts. Torqued to spec. All gaskets and seals associated with the work. Seller had replaced coil, plugs and wires before trying to solve the issue caused by the recessed valves. But I did replace the plugs with Motorcraft plugs because the ones in it were pretty fouled up. Checked all hoses and connectors on rebuild. Everything looked decent
Truck wouldn't crank. Troubleshooting and testing everything with no DTCs. Finally got it cranked by feathering the gas pedal. And it was rough, I verified the plug wires were in the correct spots. And fired it back up. Still rough, like a misfire. But then I notice that the bank 1 exhaust manifold was getting extremely hot. After just a few minutes of idle. I let the truck cool off. Grabbed my IR Temp gun and cranked it up. After 60 seconds Bank 1 Exhaust Manifold was 410° and Bank 2 was 120°.
First thought was clogged cat. But when I went to pull them I found that 2 of the 3 were pulled and piped through. Leaving only the big one at the collector. So most likely, not the cats. But I unbolted it and ran the truck. Other than being a lot louder, no difference.
Ok, maybe fuel. Check pressure. Get 44psi KOEO and Oddly 50 when running. I test resistance on the injectors and all 6 pull 12-13ohms. I don't have a node light to check pulse, but I did pull the connectors one at a time to see if that would tell me anything. Severe miss when 1,3,4,5, and 6 were pulled. And only a slight stutter when 2 was pulled. Checked plugs. All had a little carbon build up, black not white. And cyl 2 was damp and smelled like raw fuel. I try swapping the injectors, all 6 because I'm still not getting a code or CEL. Bank 1 to Bank 2 and vice versa. This only seemed to exacerbate my issue with the manifold temp difference. Truck ran the same, maybe slightly rougher. It was a cold start. Ran for 2 minutes exactly. Bank 1 was 485° while Bank 2 was only 80°, Ambient temp was 57° today. What is going on???

RECAP:
-New Cylinder heads (Allied Motor Parts) and bolts.
-New Head gasket, intake manifold seals, exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, thermostat housing gasket.
-New Coil, wires, and plugs. Spark and order verified.
-New Motorcraft MAF sensor
-New Motorcraft Idle Air Control Valve

Compression is 160psi +/- psi across all 6 cylinders
Fuel Pressure: KOEO 44psi/ Running 50psi
Injectors tested with multimeter for resistance 12-13ohms on each and have been swapped from banks.

No DTCs or CEL
Rough idle, misfire and extreme temp difference at exhaust manifold. 2 minute run time Bank 1: 485° Bank 2: 80° Ambient Temp: 57°
 
With that short a run time the O2's may not have even kicked in yet.

Sounds like one side is running VERY lean and the other rich tho. Hmm.
 
verify terminal numbers on the new coil. there are differences between some.

while running spray some WD40 into the rubber intake tube, well after the MAF. does it even out?

still have the old plug wires? pull one at a time from the coil and put in an old one going to a grounded spark plug. getting fire on all 6?
that tests the spark, and, can isolate a cylinder "not utilizing" the spark. ie, crossed wires.

you don't want to just pull one wire because with this waste spark system that effectively kills 2 cylinders. if you "divert" the spark the matching/other cylinder still fires.
 
With that short a run time the O2's may not have even kicked in yet.

Sounds like one side is running VERY lean and the other rich tho. Hmm.
When I disconnected the downpipes from the Cat, the truck threw codes almost immediately. But I was thinking the same as far as mixture. But it didn't change when I swapped plugs from bank to bank.
 
verify terminal numbers on the new coil. there are differences between some.

while running spray some WD40 into the rubber intake tube, well after the MAF. does it even out?

still have the old plug wires? pull one at a time from the coil and put in an old one going to a grounded spark plug. getting fire on all 6?
that tests the spark, and, can isolate a cylinder "not utilizing" the spark. ie, crossed wires.

you don't want to just pull one wire because with this waste spark system that effectively kills 2 cylinders. if you "divert" the spark the matching/other cylinder still fires.
This coil doesn't have numbers on it. And it was installed prior to my purchase.
I tried every order I could find on the internet. Settled out using the pattern from firewall out driverside 1,2,3 passenger 4,6,5. I used an in-line tester on the plugs to verify wires were sending fire. A decently all checked out. I don't have the old wires, again, prior to my purchase.
Will attempt the WD40 test and let you know this evening.
 
As mentioned above passenger side is 1,2,3. And #1 is at the radiator side of engine. AFAIK, all engines start #1 at the front and the cylinder closest to the front is #1. But not all manufacturers number consecutively on one side, some hop across one side to the other.
 
My apologies for the confusion, I meant on the coil itself. But I thought regardless of side 1 & 5 on one coil, 2 & 6 on the middle coil, and 3 & 4 on the other coil. Or have I been mislead there too?
 
My apologies for the confusion, I meant on the coil itself. But I thought regardless of side 1 & 5 on one coil, 2 & 6 on the middle coil, and 3 & 4 on the other coil. Or have I been mislead there too?
I think that's correct. Its a wasted spark system so the spark goes thru as you say.
 
Got an update. Ran through everything today with no change. And that extreme temp difference has been nagging at me. I had mentioned unbolting the 1 catalytic converter, but I didn't pull it out completely. Until today, I pulled it out completely. It's not running great, but it's definitely better miss is almost gone. And now I'm getting temps on my manifolds that are much closer to one another. Bank 1 was averging 675° and Bank 2 620° And I'm getting DTC codes P0171- System Too Lean Bank 1 and P0174- System Too Lean Bank 2.
My assumption is that the Cat is plugged and pulling out completely, gave enough to breath to actually fire all cylinders. Although I'm very confused on why it isolated one side when the front of this converter is literally the collector? And the codes are probably because the truck is missing the cats in between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors.
 

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