Trouble Bleeding your clutch?

[RangerFabWorks]

Then obviously you didn’t do it right

 

[jcook100]

I can't tell whether or not I need to remove the clip from the receiving end on the slave cylinder to remove the line. In one video above, he does remove it. In others, they say not to. How do I know? M5R1 5 speed transmission.

Edit: He says not to remove it when INSERTING the line. So I guess I need to remove it? Someone must have changed the slave cylinder in the past. Unfortunately, the transmission housing is in the way of the clip. Should I grind it back?

 

[Josh B]

If your clutch master cylinder goes out, the new one comes in two parts, the cylinder and the rod to the pedal. After you install the cylinder from the outside, you then push the rod into the plunger and it locks into place. Don't make the mistake of doing this before it's been bled, like I did. At that point it's best to pull the fluid line plum out (not a piece of cake but can be done. I had no help here when doing mine and tied a wire to the master cylinder and connected transmission tube, hooked an old door spring to it and tied the tail high on the hood to put upward tug on the line, then got got underneath and fed it through)
Then anchor high enough it doesnt reach the ground, fill the reservoir , and wiggle those lines all around untill you don't hear any more bubble. Put the cap back on the reservoir and feed it all back thru pre-bled.
Wish I had known that before snapping that plunge rod back in, cause after that the only way to get it out was pull the brake booster cylinder out the way, allowing the clutch master cylinder to be removed in an upward direction

I also like the method Blackwidow suggested, sounds good to me, wish I had known it then

 

[Donthekawguy]

Watch this helpful video:

Why doesnt he mention that it takes hours to get the MC out? Another great Ford design. Along with the three different screw sizes to get the fender liner out.

 

[adsm08]

Why doesnt he mention that it takes hours to get the MC out? Another great Ford design. Along with the three different screw sizes to get the fender liner out.

Probably for two reasons.

One, this video was meant as an instructional for bleeding new parts, before they are installed.

Two, it doesn't take everyone hours. I can usually have a master cylinder and line R+R'd in about an hour. Makes no sense to mention an amount of time when it will be very different for everyone.

 

[MrChuck2000]

Your method sucks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please explain how it sucks. I may have to do tis exact procedure later this week!

 

[Shran]

Please explain how it sucks. I may have to do tis exact procedure later this week!

The video in the first post is how I have bench bled many, many RBV clutches. It works perfectly but you have to pay attention during the process for anywhere air can get trapped.

I don't know about that brake bleeding method. Unless you've bled nice fresh fluid through your brakes recently you're going to pollute new clutch hydraulics with nasty old brake fluid. I can see where in theory it would work but I have never actually found it necessary to do that.

 

[Garth Libre]

For anyone else who has trouble bleeding these clutch systems. Here's a trick

Get a good clear hose. Run it from the driver side caliper bleeder to the slave cylinder bleeder. Open both bleeders. Slowly pump the brakes. This Will reverse bleed the clutch. And push the air out the reservoir.

Genius. Where did you come up with that? I don't think I've heard that mentioned before.

 

[Garth Libre]

I had a Mazda Miata with the same transmission. The slave was bolted to the outside. What is the problem with just having the slave on the outside? It becomes lever operated this way and I've never seen a Miata with a problem slave. People just swap them out in ten minutes - easy job.

 

[fastpakr]

Genius. Where did you come up with that? I don't think I've heard that mentioned before.

That's how I bleed motorcycle brakes. If the fluid is good and you're just clearing a bit of air it's a very quick and effective method.

 

[fixizin]

RE: using brakes to bleed the clutch... besides the fluid-pollution problem pointed out by Shran, doesn't the clear connecting tube start out filled with air, so you're starting out by pushing a huge "slug" of air right into the clutch slave cylinder (and on up to the master cyl)??

 

[Roamer]

I had my clutch replaced, everything except the master slave which is not in the bell housing of the transmission. I've bled and bled and bled the system it works for like a week, and then it will only have a peddle of pressure when it's cold outside. Today was 80, and truck has been sitting all night. fire it up and cannot put it in any gear unless I shut the truck off then put it a gear then start it up and go. The clutch does not disengage to shift it into 2nd, or 3rd unless I rev-match it etc. when I come to a red light I have to turn my truck off shift into 1st then as the green light's I start my truck n go...

Question,

Why will it work for like 1 hr really well if it's cold outside, but when its warm or hot out it has problems mentioned above.

 

[SenorNoob]

Does the fluid level change?

 

[Roamer]

Does the fluid level change?

Not at all

 

[SenorNoob]

Then one of the cylinders is leaking internally. I would try the easier/cheaper/older one first.