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Pickup might be done for


I'm keeping the same engine, just replacing the timing chain guides. This pickup's been in the family since new so I'd rather keep it then go for an unproven engine from a junkyard.

I missed that or forgot about it. Either way, the rest pretty much applies. The job really wasn't that bad when I replaced the engine in the 1998. Heck, I surprised myself with the fact that I didn't miss anything pulling or installing the engine and it started on the first attempt.

Oh, I did forget one thing. Pull the hood and get it out of your way. It will make things much easier of you don't have to keep messing with the thing or damaging it while you are doing the work.
 
I missed that or forgot about it. Either way, the rest pretty much applies. The job really wasn't that bad when I replaced the engine in the 1998. Heck, I surprised myself with the fact that I didn't miss anything pulling or installing the engine and it started on the first attempt.

Oh, I did forget one thing. Pull the hood and get it out of your way. It will make things much easier of you don't have to keep messing with the thing or damaging it while you are doing the work.
I'm not too worried about this, my biggest obstacle is time. But I figure I can get it out, fixed, and placed back in in a day. I'll have an entire week to button it back up. I forgot to say, but last night I noticed my driver's side valve cover had a crack in it. Not sure if it goes all the way through, or how long its been there but that's another thing to do.
 
Plan B on removing the hood is put a ratchet strap in the latch hole and pull the other end to a stake pocket or something... I've had several engines in my '90 and I'm not sure I've ever pulled the hood... I did on the Explorer but on that I used a chain hoist instead of the cherry picker...

If you've pulled the engine on a Fiero I'm sure there's more room in a Ranger... not sure on the 4 cylinder versions but I've heard the V6 versions are CRAMPED...
 
Do y'all think an engine stand would be necessary to do this? I'm leaning towards yes due to having to remove the oil pan. And if so, what kind of bolts to mount it up?
 
Do y'all think an engine stand would be necessary to do this? I'm leaning towards yes due to having to remove the oil pan. And if so, what kind of bolts to mount it up?

I found it useful for working on the engine and making sure it stayed in place while I was doing it. And it has the benefit of being able to rotate the engine in whatever direction you want while you are working on it.
 
Do y'all think an engine stand would be necessary to do this? I'm leaning towards yes due to having to remove the oil pan. And if so, what kind of bolts to mount it up?

It will be a lot easier with a stand. Just depends on if you want to spend the money on a stand and how much stuff you need to do to the engine while it's out. If you really think you can get it fixed in a couple hours and you're in an apartment lot you might not want to take the time to put it on a stand and just swap while it's hoisted.

Use the bell housing bolts (or same size/pitch bolts) to attach the engine to an engine stand, and bolt the arms to the engine where it mates to the transmission.
 
Seriously, it does the job really well. I might have overkilled it by going through four quarts of fluid but it worked.

Syphon, fill, drive, repeat
 
Personally I just take the power steering pump bracket off as well as the A/C compressor and just zip tie them to stuff in the engine compartment and leave them in place... way easier and cleaner...
 
How does one drain power steering fluid?

I use one of cheap white fluid pumps with the red squeeze bulb. That will get most of the fluid out of the reservoir.
 
Spent the day working. all that’s left for tomorrow is the upper manifold, exhaust, transmission, and unbolt. Everything went well today, never even busted a knuckle. If anybody has a link to any good videos or write ups of removing the intake manifold, please link them.
 
Personally I just take the power steering pump bracket off as well as the A/C compressor and just zip tie them to stuff in the engine compartment and leave them in place... way easier and cleaner...
Exactly what I ended up doing. Works like a charm
 
Decided to wait to pull the engine until tomorrow. All that’s left is engine mounts and transmission. I’ll take any and all advice for doing that
 
Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, don't pull the torque converter with the engine, leave the trans as a sealed unit (other than the cooler lines which you probably disconnected which is fine). You can either turn the crankshaft by the crank bolt or rotate the ring gear with a prybar from the starter hole or something...
 

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