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Interior upgrade advice - 2001 4x4 Seats


All of the track covers I've seen are plastic so the old one could be reused.
 
okay, so I just bought, or rather agreed to buy, a 2004 Explorer with a very nice interior that has been very well maintained but needs an engine rebuild. Loud knock, will need to be towed to my place. This will be perfect for my designs with my Ranger. I will do the interior swap and pull the engine, rebuild it myself and have it ready to drop in to my Ranger when the engine in there croaks. The Explorer engine is a 4.0L SOHC, should be a drop in? I can spiff it up a little bit in the rebuild and end up with something a little better than what I have now.
 
I don't know the price you paid (or will pay), but might not be a bad deal even just for the interior bits you want.

If you are serious about the engine swap, do some thorough studying on what will be needed. Even though they are both V6 RBVs, it isn't just unbolt one engine and bolt the other in. Transmission bolt pattern is different so that will need to be swapped. The engine computer and wiring is different to it'll need to be swapped. The PATS systems were different between 01 and 04, so you'll need to investigate that as well and what will be needed to make them cooperate.

Not saying the engine swap is a bad plan, just be sure of what you are getting into and that you retain enough parts from the Explorer to make it a functional swap. Presumably you'll be scrapping/selling what's left after you;ve harvested your parts and not have it sitting in the pasture for the next several years, you don't want to get rid parts you're going to need along with it.
 
I consider myself sufficient with wiring and electronics, but I wouldn't even attempt to engine swap something that new and expect stock like afterwards.
 
I gotta (very small) concern about the seats... and if you haven't finalized, now would be the time for others to chime in or check it out yourself... the seats got wider in 2002 I read repeatedly... is that too wide for 1st/2nd gen but perfectly ok for your need?
 
I really really thought it was in that tech article I quoted way back post #2... so I re-read it, 1 line above the 2000 explorer power seat wiring

"2002 and newer Ford Explorer seats are wider, and will not bolts up to the Ranger tracks."

I did not test anything relevant with that, I limited my search in the yard and found a 1995.

Only thing I did note myself is how close the door is to the seat bolster if you do it the same as I did (I fabbed new seat tracks out of ranger lower and explorer power electrics so as not to give up electric).

IMG20240923085456.jpg
 
"2002 and newer Ford Explorer seats are wider, and will not bolts up to the Ranger tracks."

Sure it says that and they may be wider, but wider does not mean will not fit. They may not bolt up to the Ranger tracks, but again that does not mean that they can't be attached to them with some work to adapt them. Only way to know for sure is careful measuring of the parts that you intend to use and/or having the parts in hand and seeing what fits.
 
Most seats with removable tracks are effectively flat on the bottom. Seems like it should be possible to make an adapter plate assuming the width doesn't mean you end up with a bolt head halfway in the track...
 
And the explorer sports and sport tracs, that extend the year range by a bit. Up to 2004 I think
 
I will pay $500.00 for the Explorer. The interior and the car in general are in remarkable shape. Very well maintained, with lots of service records. I'm serious about the engine swap, I've rebuilt a couple engines, not a seasoned mechanic by any stretch, but I love projects and I am good at following directions. I thought I read somewhere that ford didn't drop and bolts holes with newer V6's, so if the engine is newer it should bolt up?

I don't know the price you paid (or will pay), but might not be a bad deal even just for the interior bits you want.

If you are serious about the engine swap, do some thorough studying on what will be needed. Even though they are both V6 RBVs, it isn't just unbolt one engine and bolt the other in. Transmission bolt pattern is different so that will need to be swapped. The engine computer and wiring is different to it'll need to be swapped. The PATS systems were different between 01 and 04, so you'll need to investigate that as well and what will be needed to make them cooperate.

Not saying the engine swap is a bad plan, just be sure of what you are getting into and that you retain enough parts from the Explorer to make it a functional swap. Presumably you'll be scrapping/selling what's left after you;ve harvested your parts and not have it sitting in the pasture for the next several years, you don't want to get rid parts you're going to need along with it.
 
I will pay $500.00 for the Explorer. The interior and the car in general are in remarkable shape. Very well maintained, with lots of service records. I'm serious about the engine swap, I've rebuilt a couple engines, not a seasoned mechanic by any stretch, but I love projects and I am good at following directions. I thought I read somewhere that ford didn't drop and bolts holes with newer V6's, so if the engine is newer it should bolt up?

That bolt hole thing is correct to an extent, but it really only applies to the same engine design.

Your profile info says that you have a 3.0L V6. A 3.0L Ranger V6 from a 1995 will have the same bolting and mounts as a 3.0L from a 2005.

That 3.0L and the 4.0L have a completely different design and achitecture. They use different transmissions and bellhousing patterns. You will need to use components that match the 4.0L. That would be transmission, acessories, electronics, wiring, mounts, exhaust, etc. You don't necessarily have to use the components from the Explorer, but they will need to match the 4.0L SOHC V6. Preferibly parts from a 01-11 Ranger 4.0L SOHC for best fitment.
 
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If I can elaborate/extend... the 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 (all V6) are all 'Cologne' blocks (from Germany), the 2.0/2.2/2.3 (4 bangers) are all 'Lima' blocks (Lima Ohio), the 3.0 is a 'Vulcan' block (about 2 light years past virgo).... so yes a whole whole lot of engine trans are almost "bolt in" - but those always stay in the same block family. I don't know of what all else engines will swap for a 3.0 like Josh said except a 3.0. (the Taurus SHO 3.0 and 3.2 will swap but they require more than just turning bolts to deal with the large size - couple people here have/are doing it.)

more details about each engine family in the tech library:

A sidenote on the 4.0 SOHC, a "knock" like a real ping/knock from bad fuel? Novice might be mistaken "some noise" for knock which is really timing chain - the most infamous and first thing to fail on the 4.0 SOHC, the thing that gave exploders their nickname... interference engine with a weak rube goldberg timing nightmare setup. Could be all you have to do is replace the timing cassettes (replace is a big understatement - it basically is a mess of work as it takes pulling the engine out of the bay)

That said taking a 4.0 out of a RBV (Ranger Based Vehicle) and putting it in another RBV is more straightforward than fabbing in something completely foreign (like a 400). Wiring is a lot more complicated in these vehicles than the old classics.
 
Novice might be mistaken "some noise" for knock which is really timing chain - the most infamous and first thing to fail on the 4.0 SOHC, the thing that gave exploders their nickname... interference engine with a weak rube goldberg timing nightmare setup.
Actually what gave Exploders their nickname came well before a timing chain ever failed in a 4.0L SOHC. It came from Firestone tires blowing out or "exploding".

Well, that and how well the two words blend together. Even if a tire had never blown up and a valve had never hit a piston, the Exploder nickname would have evolved because of how similar the two words sound.
 
I'll talk with the shop that has the Explorer tomorrow morning. See how far they have gone in determining what is at the root of the knock. Worst case scenario is I get my interior pieces and part out the rest. If the engine has jumped time and the cylinders are slapping the valves, I will toss the engine. But the guy said it was still drivable but couldn’t be driven at freeway speed. Could be a timing guide or tensioner blew apart? Who knows… I’ll dig into it a see what I can find. I suppose I could get really really ambitious and swap the engine, tranny, transfer case and front at rear diffs! Did I forget anything?
 
the timing chains make a hell of a noise before they go (usually)...
 

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