I think this is all said, but let me say it a slightly different way.
Pull the little rubber/plastic oblong cap out of the inside side of the bottom of the drum, where you access the star wheel,
Using a screwdriver or in adjustment tool, you can then wedge against that opening and turn that star wheel. It should turn easily in one direction and fight you turning in the other direction. You want to turn it in the direction that fights you. You don’t need a crowbar, but it will take some force on the screwdriver and you have to have it pushed in solid.
If your drums are worn, there may be a lip on top of the inside of the “soup bowl” if you envision the drum being a soup bowl. If the Brakes have been pushing out too hard, that lip might be substantial. You may need to turn that star wheel two or three complete revolutions (20 or 30 “cranks“) before the drum will slide off.
As you’re doing that, use the dead blow hammer, but only rotate the drum in the direction that would be reverse. The brakes are designed to grab harder going forward than they do in reverse. If you do a few turns on that star wheel, and you kind of pop it loose with the dead blow hammer, spinning it in reverse, it should come off. If you ruin the little star wheel, they are cheap, and I don’t know how you’d get to it any other way.
A word of caution when you’re pulling on the drum. It will stick stick stick, and may all of a sudden seem to fly off. Be careful of your knuckles and your lips and your nose when you’re tugging on it. It may break free all at once and move with very little effort. Guess how I know that?
And you mentioned taking the pressure off the brake drums. The big black round rubber thing is the tire, and you can let the pressure off of that. But the brake drums are cast-iron, and I never saw a bleeder valve for the brake drums themselves.
You may wish to ignore that last paragraph. As always, my two cents, hope it helps.