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Stalling when shifting into R or D


JoshT

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
5,331
City
Macon/Fort Valley, GA
State - Country
GA - USA
Vehicle Year
1999
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Engine
5.0
Transmission
Automatic
Total Drop
few inches
Tire Size
~30"
This is with the 4R70W in my 5.0L swapped 99 Ranger. Drivetrain is from a 2000 Explorer. Transmission is all stock as far as I know, engine is modified and not tuned for it. Trying to get all of the other quirks sorted before I get a tune.

When I drove the donor Explorer home all was fine, shifted good and no issues. When I did the initial swap, I drove the truck for a few hundred miles with no issues aside from low oil pressure with the engine used. September I finished up an engine rebuild and the issue has appeared since then.

I can best put this in the context of my normal drive to work. In the morning when the drivetrain is still cool I have no problems with putting the truck into gear and taking off. 30 minutes later when I get to work If I shift into Reverse the truck is likely to stall. Shift back into Drive it is likely to stall. If I wait a moment in neutral or park I can usually shift into R or D with out stalling. Once the truck has cooled off a bit, it doesn't have a problem shifting between R and D. Get the heat back in and it does it again.

Warm or cold, I notice no shifting issues when driving down the road. No slipping that I can tell. Fluid level is good and fresh. The entiriety of my experience with a 5.0L and 4R70W is what few miles I put on the donor (~100) and on the Ranger since the swap (little over 1k), so I'm not the best judge, but it appears to shift good though a little lazy/soft.

First possibility I can think of is that due to the tune being off my RPMs are dropping too low under the initial load of shifting the transmission into gear, that causes the stall. My though is that when cold the IACV is keeping the engine RPM elevated to get the engine temp up, so it doesn;t drop enough to stall. Also when warmed up, if I keep the RPM slightly elevated with the throttle it won't stall when dropping into R or D.

Second possibility I've seen mentioned is that the torque converter is not unlocking. It could be a case of bad torque converter which would mean dropping the transmission, or a bad TCC solenoid which would mean just the valve body. I'd be hoping for the TCC solenoid and not the converter itself. Much easier to drop the valvebody than the whole trans, but if that's what needs to happen, it will. Money is a little tight until I get some bills paid down and I don't have a good place or equipment to pull the trans, so I want to be damn sure it's the problem before I dig in. I have no idea how one would go about testing either of those things. So is there any real way to test the torque converter, if it's locking and unlocking like it should, and if the TCC solenoid is the likely culprit?

Any other ideas as to what could be causing this or how to troubleshoot it?
 
Since it has a TCC solenoid, can you temporarily wire it for manual control from a toggle switch to see if it's working?
 
seen this with bad solenoid. epc or converter.

but usually you get shudder as well.


what is the actual rpm?

is the prndl switch hooked up and reading correctly?

i dont remember what total the 2000 system looks at for ac/and converter load.

cold for sure is fat.

warm, hard to say. log it and see what its doing. they are different then the early style. the different cam sensor and fuel setups have different sensitivity to vac leaks ect.
 
Since it has a TCC solenoid, can you temporarily wire it for manual control from a toggle switch to see if it's working?

Not sure, it's something I can try to investigate.

seen this with bad solenoid. epc or converter.

but usually you get shudder as well.

What exactly are you calling a shudder? Is that just a converter symptom, or can it be associated with any of those three?

I haven't noticed anything that I would call a shudder, but maybe I haven;t been in the right conditions for it to occour.

what is the actual rpm?
It's kind of difficult to read an exact off of the gauge due to it's inexact nature, but I'll try to pull a datalog and see what it shows.


is the prndl switch hooked up and reading correctly?

Near as I can tell it is. Everything seems to function as it should. Shifts through gears properly. Not really sure how else to tell without digging out the multimeter and trying to test that way, assuming that I can even find the information to test that way.

i dont remember what total the 2000 system looks at for ac/and converter load.

I did not even think to consider the AC in all of this. AC being on or off will affect the engine load and idle as well. I'm sure I've had it both on and off during times that this happened, but it's not something that I took note of.
 
its not shuddering or your would for sure know. especially at throttle tip in. of course it also depends on cause.

watching it on a log is ideal.
 

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