2.3L ('83-'97) 88' Misfires, bogging down and stalling issues

[opijmee]

Hello, its been a while since I posted on this, been quite busy but just want to update.
The issue is still there, still running rich too, took a look at the ecm and it looks fine to me,

I'm thinking that maybe its a fuel related issue or maybe something to do with the distributor, although I checked the cap and it looked fine to me.
I assume this has been discussed on these forums before but are there procedures to check the injectors and inline fuel pump? Just so I don't have to keep throwing parts at it.
Thanks

 

[SenorNoob]

Looks fine to me too. Capacitor plague didn't really become a problem till sometime into the 90s IIRC. (Wikipedia says 99-07) Older capacitors are likely worn by now though.

Fuel pressure tester
Though if it's running rich I'd think the pressure is fine. (It usually goes low causing a lean condition.) Unless it has leaky injector or the regulator is leaking. Fuel injector should only show on one cylinder though. The regulator is real easy to check. Pull the vacuum line off and start it. Watch for a leak.

Leaky fuel pressure regulator actually would make sense. Engine needs more fuel when cold so runs ok. After it warms up it's on the verge of flooding. You really should have some kind of code for that tho. Does the check engine light work? If it does you can make it flash the codes. Assuming you don't have bad wiring. Could always try one of the Innova 3145 readers. I love mine. It's so easy that it feels like cheating...

 

[opijmee]

When I checked the sparkplugs they were all similarly sooty so I guess unlikely a fuel injector issue, but checking the regulator is a good idea, I'll try it when I get a chance and update if I notice anything. One thing I should mention though is that now the issue happens whether the engine is cold or at operating temps, maybe has something to do with the weather warming up? not sure

The engine light is weird on mine, the light on the dash only comes on when the engine cranks and thats it. I tried to use a multimeter to test for any codes, following a youtube video on jumping the self test port in the engine bay and checking the code using the continuity setting. But it seems like I don't have any continuity at all which is strange, so I'm assuming its bad wiring.

I don't have much experience in using OBD1 so if I'm doing something wrong with that feel free to correct me but everything I found online and never got anything from it.

 

[SenorNoob]

You can bypass part of the wiring by using a test light. Then you only need a connection to battery and SelfTestOutput (STO) pin on the computer. That's one of the pins in the test connector.

 

[I support common sense]

I’m just spitballing here, but I think you have an engine block issue. Vacuum lines and coolant hoses don’t blow off for no reason. Perhaps you’ve got a crack in the block or bad head gasket and you’re getting blow by into your vacuum lines and coolant. If your brake vacuum line blows off that is a serious issue. Look for coolant in the oil or vice versa. My guess is your plugs are dark with carbon on them from oil. Still possible it’s running rich though.

btw: Try cleaning your throttle plate for better performance until you can sort out the underlying problems.

 

[opijmee]

Ok, ill look into checking the codes with a test light and bypassing some wiring, I'm assuming there's some diagram of which pin on the ecm is which?

I'm really hoping its not an issue with the block but yeah, those lines blowing off was very strange. I check the coolant and oil pretty frequently and did not notice any signs of cross contamination, so I doubt its a head gasket but I guess I shouldn't rule out larger issues like that either. And they said these 1st gens were built like tanks lol, guess 37 years can really do a number on anything I suppose.

Cleaning the throttle plate is a good idea, I'll give it a shot and hopefully it helps something.