Power panel for rear of bed anyone?

[MaicoDoug]

Hello all,

I've been looking on & off for a power panel at the rear of the bed as many of the newer pickups are optioned with these and thought that the aftermarket would have some available. Seen some, but wanted to initially make a thread about what y'all already have. I have an electrical background and there really isn't anything I wouldn't try except if there are already some designs that some of you would not do again or some that you would, things that you would like to be added (such as circuit breakers locally) better water proofing behind a panel, solar back up w/ a local battery, & battery switch, ??.

 

[Robertmangrum.rm]

I'm pretty happy with my setup. I went with a CTek DC to DC charger that was inputs for your alt and solar. It only draws 25amps for 30 mins on and 30 mins from my alt when the truck is running (which allows me to run smaller wire up to the engine compartment) . It will handle up to 300watts of solar. I only have a 100w panel on my roof rack. I matched the battery to my factory AGM to AGM. Just to assure that the charging patterns mated up good. I did go with a group 27 instead of the group 35 that's in the truck. But I run a 12v fridge 24/7 and have a 1000w inverter for 110v in the back. It's large enough to run my battery charger for my M12 tools. Plus charge phones and cameras when off grid.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Amazon cheapie here.



Charges a phone, my fan and runs the inflator for my air matresss. Supposedly waterproof but is in a topper.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I did something way simpler. No "house battery"... no solar... no inverter.

My 12 volt fridge draws 4 amps. 12 AWG over 20 feet would handle that load... I used 10 AWG to be safe. Then bought an electronics "hobby" box. Installed two 12 volt outlets... a volt meter and three switches to run some LED lights under the cap. So far so good. I still need to cut the bed liner to mount the box to the bed.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'll add that I used fusible wire (blue wire coming off the underhood fuse block) to protect both my interior switch panel and my power/switch box in the rear. There are now two fuse links there but pictures was taken before adding in the rear. Both those components need Hot at All Times for proper operation. This leaves you a bit vulnerable. Nobody likes a dead battery. Checking switch positions just has become a part of shut down.

Edit... the fridge has battery rundown protection built in. You can select one of three voltage levels to have the fridge shut down to save battery. I've had the fridge hooked up for nearly four weeks and had no starting issues...

 

[Blmpkn]

View attachment 118109

I'll add that I used fusible wire (blue wire coming off the underhood fuse block) to protect both my interior switch panel and my power/switch box in the rear. There are now two fuse links there but pictures was taken before adding in the rear. Both those components need Hot at All Times for proper operation. This leaves you a bit vulnerable. Nobody likes a dead battery. Checking switch positions just has become a part of shut down.

Edit... the fridge has battery rundown protection built in. You can select one of three voltage levels to have the fridge shut down to save battery. I've had the fridge hooked up for nearly four weeks and had no starting issues...

Ooh.. I like that battery terminal/cable setup..

 

[MaicoDoug]

Nice fridge. I need one that will keep my catch fresh from my escapades surf fishing on North Padre Island. Driving down you just can't predict where the pompano will be. 60 miles long. So your on your own, no cell phone (thank god).

I do have a couple of solar panels. The state swaps them out and then places on auction. The guy who buys these sells them for pennies, so guys like me can scarf up a couple for projects. I did find a page finally that has some cool stuff.....Electric Camping Junk including This Cool Kit.

Gump put together his own panel/box. That's something that I'd most likely be doing. I have had this 32 bit solar controlled that has been in service now outside for 2 years, so I have to brag....10a solar controller.

Working on the tailgate in the south 40 or fishing-camping it sure would be nice to have a local battery and not put the $$ into some big wire, and have it regenerate. At least for lights and a small electric cooler. I'm into shortwave radio & a 100 watt transceiver I'm sure would find it's way into the scenario at some point after a temporary antenna installation while camping. Well Here is some stuff to get you started for your new Ranger.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My green Ranger is going to get a box in the back and eventually most of my trucks. I was looking at just getting a waterproof “project” box and build it out with USB and cigarette lighter socket and stuff. I have 10ga wires run back for that but I haven’t got the whole thing done yet

 

[mikkelstuff]

For power to the rear, I ran a #10 AWG wire from the under hood fuse box to an inline fuse, to a starter solenoid switch, and from the switch to the rear.

I then ran a #18 AWG wire from the under hood fuse box to an inline fuse, to a toggle switch in the cab, to an LED indicator light, and back under the hood to trigger the solenoid switch.

Those solenoid switches can handle the power and I do not have power running to the rear until I need it.

 

[MaicoDoug]

12"x10"x4" Weather & Dust Proof IP65 PS Plastic Universal Electrical Junction Conduit Box and DIY Project Enclosure, Use for Outdoor and Indoor (1 Pack) Updated Stronger Material

Been outside now for 18 months, so far has suffered from "amozionits" yet, $33 bucks.

 

[Uncle Gump]

For power to the rear, I ran a #10 AWG wire from the under hood fuse box to an inline fuse, to a starter solenoid switch, and from the switch to the rear.

I then ran a #18 AWG wire from the under hood fuse box to an inline fuse, to a toggle switch in the cab, to an LED indicator light, and back under the hood to trigger the solenoid switch.

Those solenoid switches can handle the power and I do not have power running to the rear until I need it.

I was going to do something similar using a relay... then thought about having to energize that relay for extended periods. I really wanted to power the fridge continuously... and didn't want the current draw of the relay in addition to any electrical load I added.

You also said starter solenoid. Those are really designed for momentary high current applications. There are better choices for continuous use relays. I'm also guessing with just 10AWG you aren't using anywhere near the capacity of that starter solenoid/relay.

12"x10"x4" Weather & Dust Proof IP65 PS Plastic Universal Electrical Junction Conduit Box and DIY Project Enclosure, Use for Outdoor and Indoor (1 Pack) Updated Stronger Material

Been outside now for 18 months, so far has suffered from "amozionits" yet, $33 bucks.

That box is huge...

What all are you thinking about puttin in it?

 

[pentode]

I was going to do something similar using a relay... then thought about having to energize that relay for extended periods. I really wanted to power the fridge continuously... and didn't want the current draw of the relay in addition to any electrical load I added.

Have you considered a latching relay or impulse relay? That would eliminate the current draw from the relay.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Have you considered a latching relay or impulse relay? That would eliminate the current draw from the relay.

At the time I was doing it... I did not. But your comment sure did jog my memory a bit.

The first time I ran into latching relays was when I got assigned to the GM CUCV military vehicles. I was tasked with drawing schematics from harness blueprints for the add-on electrical that was MIL-SPEC. For the life of me... I couldn't figure out how it all worked with just the blue prints. I had to take my DMM to an actual vehicle with the array of two and three position... and momentary switches.

It was a true learning experience...

 

[MaicoDoug]

That box holds 2ea. 1370Ma, 12v batteries, a 12Vdc in, 125Vac 100w inverter connected, and that Biteteria solar cell controller connected to a 100w, 24v solar panel.

Relay for UG, if running that fridge all the time you may consider what pentode mentioned; a normally closed contact. SSR (solid state relay) that employs the typical 3-32 Vdc to trigger it. The continuous current is almost nothing in microamps. Then there a latched "off" relay that is resting with no voltage energized at it's coil. When you want it to turn off it unlatches when you give it voltage (push the "ON" button's NO contacts powering the relay coil). Latching circuits employ a Normally Closed (NC) & Normally Open (NO) contacts, often 2 pushbuttons are used, the "OFF" button is always closed (NC), and the "ON" push button is open (NO) at rest. So on a relay that has an extra set of contacts, the acuated ON push button is closed to energise a set of contacts that then become closed, thus powering itself through the normally (NC) "OFF" pushbutton un actuated.

I want one of those so bad....especially to freeze my surf caught fish. until I get to a bigger freezer.

 

[bobbywalter]

i just run an inverter and extension cords on the ranger.....captain cave pig the bronco....and my shop trucks vary.....

right now all i have is a 500 watt inverter because my 5 k is missing.

i unloaded the ol godzilla 250 and miserably said goodbye..... to get into this pos bitchwagon ram 2500....

and my inverter and wiring just disappeared from the hiding spot they were in.... total fawking mystery.... .and dont think i will take the time to outfit this not made for men who actually work sorry excuse for a truck .... or what ram thinks is a truck. the only thing that hates it more then me is poor rocky.

if you drive a new ram and think you work........you are a bitch and dont know what work is.... and dont deserve rear power panels.


those are for man trucks.....like kenworths.......like rangers....and power wheels...or barbie bike.... not for rams.