Carbed 302 +R2M2 Swap

[L0WnSL0W]

By the mid 70's 302's were down to 139hp. From 73-76 the deck height was raised .023" to drop the compression and the timing gears were retarded 4-6 degrees. The cylinder heads were lousy as well, until 77 they used rail rockers which caused extreme valve guide wear and the exhaust ports were restricted by the cast in thermactor passages. I'd strongly recommend finding at least an 85 engine, an 87-96 would be even better. 85 and later Mustangs got roller cams, trucks got them later, with the current flat tappet cam/lifter failure problems a roller would be safer and better. An engine swap is expensive and a lot of work, the reuslts ought to be worth it.
302's used a 140 tooth flywheel in Mustang II's, otherwise they use either 157 or 164 teeth. The bellhousing and block plate have to match. The measurement shown would be16 7/8" on a 157 and 17 5/16 for a 164.
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thanks for the measurement info looks like the trans i got it for a 157 tooth and i checked my block code and its an 79-84 out of a car. which looks like it has its own problems with a two piece main seal. I kinda did this swap on whim just because the engine was complete and so cheap I might just clean it up and re sell it for an attempt to get a newer one, or just get new heads, intake etc. I'll be doing the rear end swap next summer and this swap the following.

 

[L0WnSL0W]

Looks like it'd be the same process. I almost wanna try it. Should be easy enough to reverse if it didn't work out.

Edit: I just noticed the ball end on that. My lever has a kinda wedge shaped end. Honestly not sure it matters or couldn't be modified.

yeah would think if the ball is same size at the end could just grind to a wedge thickness.

 

[19Walt93]

thanks for the measurement info looks like the trans i got it for a 157 tooth and i checked my block code and its an 79-84 out of a car. which looks like it has its own problems with a two piece main seal. I kinda did this swap on whim just because the engine was complete and so cheap I might just clean it up and re sell it for an attempt to get a newer one, or just get new heads, intake etc. I'll be doing the rear end swap next summer and this swap the following.

If it's a 2 piece rear seal it's an 81 at the latest. There should be a casting code on the side of the block that you can decode to narrow it down more.

 

[L0WnSL0W]

If it's a 2 piece rear seal it's an 81 at the latest. There should be a casting code on the side of the block that you can decode to narrow it down more.

its E0AE D3C which from what i found is an 83 ? not sure if thats correct

 

[L0WnSL0W]

I also found a guy selling mid pipe headers for $50 theyre from a fox body mustang? does anyone know off hand if mid pipes fit? searching for headers that fit is pretty rough and varied i'll update if i find and answer before someone can answer.

 

[19Walt93]

its E0AE D3C which from what i found is an 83 ? not sure if thats correct

EOAE identifies a 1980. "E" is the 80's, "O"(it's an alpha O, not a zero for some unknown reason) identifies the year in the 80's, once you get past 80, the second digit becomes a number so 1 would mean 1981, the "A" indicates a full size Ford/Crown Vic, and E is a common 4th digit but I don't know what it means- it would turn into a "Z" when the ID number crosses to a part number. The D3C is the suffix which idebtifies the individual part. EOAZ-6009-D3C would be an example of 1980 Crown engine block part number.
A part number beginning with A was from the 40's, B was the 50's, C was the 60's, D was the 70's, and F was the 90's. After that the numbering sequense changed to be global so 2 digits could be used to indicate the model.

 

[L0WnSL0W]

EOAE identifies a 1980. "E" is the 80's, "O"(it's an alpha O, not a zero for some unknown reason) identifies the year in the 80's, once you get past 80, the second digit becomes a number so 1 would mean 1981, the "A" indicates a full size Ford/Crown Vic, and E is a common 4th digit but I don't know what it means- it would turn into a "Z" when the ID number crosses to a part number. The D3C is the suffix which idebtifies the individual part. EOAZ-6009-D3C would be an example of 1980 Crown engine block part number.
A part number beginning with A was from the 40's, B was the 50's, C was the 60's, D was the 70's, and F was the 90's. After that the numbering sequense changed to be global so 2 digits could be used to indicate the model.

cool thank you for the detailed break down. when i googled it, i seen a few forum posts of people breaking down but not to this extent thats where i got my 79-84 range from and the 2piece main.

 

[19Walt93]

Another benefit to the later, 1 piece rear main block is that it's lighter. Whatever you build, it's worth the extra money to convert to a roller cam if it doesn't have one. There are drop in tie bar style roller lifters available as well as reduced base circle roller cams, you'll probably have to use custom lenght pushrods.

 

[L0WnSL0W]

Another benefit to the later, 1 piece rear main block is that it's lighter. Whatever you build, it's worth the extra money to convert to a roller cam if it doesn't have one. There are drop in tie bar style roller lifters available as well as reduced base circle roller cams, you'll probably have to use custom lenght pushrods.

Someone is selling a bare roller block for $150.
Is that worth buying and moving everything over or just converting my block to a roller style? I don’t want to have to play with the crank and the pistons, rods if I don’t have too. Was just looking at doing cams, heads, intake on the engine. Just a mild build for a daily summer driver nothing for the strip or anything like that

 

[19Walt93]

Someone is selling a bare roller block for $150.
Is that worth buying and moving everything over or just converting my block to a roller style? I don’t want to have to play with the crank and the pistons, rods if I don’t have too. Was just looking at doing cams, heads, intake on the engine. Just a mild build for a daily summer driver nothing for the strip or anything like that

If I started with a bare block everything would go to a machine shop before I assembled it. A two piece rear seal crank might not work in a later block. The pistons you show would have low compression- in any block- and will hurt power and they're unlikely to fit into the new block properly. Drop in roller lifters are more expensive than stock rollers but less expensive than building an engine from a bare block. Heads with smaller chambers will help compression but won't offset those pistons, 58cc heads are pretty common, some 289's had 54cc heads but they had tiny valves and would need a complete rebuild.

 

[L0WnSL0W]

Im doing the swap in a currently auto ford ranger and switching to the manual R2. will I need a new spline for my drive shaft? (i assume yes) and will one from a manual ranger that had an R1 work?
It just popped in my head this morning and been googling and searching for few hours and cant seem to find any definitive answers or mentions in peoples swaps concerning even the drive shaft length let alone the slip yoke for 2WD, theyre just about putting it to a transfer case which doesn't concern me.