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- Aug 17, 2007
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- central ohio
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- 2.5 (4 Cylinder)
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- 235/70/16
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- the grey-t escape
We need to mow tomorrow, just mowed tuesday but its in need of it again.
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Just found out that my well system is inop. Guess I'm going to get to dig into that tomorrow, hopefully the rain will be cleared up. I know almost nothing about how these systems work. Just that there is a pressure tank and a control switch under the house and a pump head in the ground out closer to the road.
Is the pressure tank full of water? If it is, then the bladder is bad in it. Usually there’s a tire type valve somewhere on the top. Tank should have an ID label of what air pressure should be in there.Just found out that my well system is inop. Guess I'm going to get to dig into that tomorrow, hopefully the rain will be cleared up. I know almost nothing about how these systems work. Just that there is a pressure tank and a control switch under the house and a pump head in the ground out closer to the road.
Not being funny, check the fuses & breakers and power to the system first.
Is the pressure tank full of water? If it is, then the bladder is bad in it. Usually there’s a tire type valve somewhere on the top. Tank should have an ID label of what air pressure should be in there.
Also check breakers/fuses.
Oh, and there should be a pressure switch somewhere in the system that turns the well pump on and off and if whoever put it together did their job right, there should be a pressure gauge somewhere.
We need to mow tomorrow, just mowed tuesday but its in need of it again.
There's a couple things that could be going wrong, first check that you have 220 at your pressure switch (should be 2 legs of 110), if you have that look to see if you have a pump start capacitor box somewhere, I've had those go bad a couple times, they're $13 on amazon...
Looks like dead pump. Rain cleared up so went out and pulled the cover, got 220 out to the pump, but no pumping. Also saw no pump start capacitor in the system anywhere. 220 from outside breaker box to pressure switch under the house, then goes back out and buried out to the pump. No other visible boxes between the switch and the pump.
Being unfamiliar with how things are assembled down in there, or how deep it is, I'll be calling a recommended service company in the morning.
I really hope that the oil pressure thing on the Ranger is a false alarm, cause I don't know if the budget is going to cover fixing the well and building an engine this year.
A well pump is not that expensive.
I don’t think I paid more then $400 to have mine replaced on a Friday night at overtime rates. Few years back though.
I'm assuming that they get better pricing on pumps than I would at Lowes or Home Depot. I don't know my well depth or the pump's horse power rating, but the prices for pumps started around $450. Given that, if the company can do the job for $600-700 and give everything else a clean bill of health, the added cost seems worth it to me.
I can get better pump prices online and if I had able bodies help I'd probably order one and tackle it. As is, the only help I can ask for is my 70 year old dad who isn't in the greatest shape physically. Just coming out to give an extra set of hands for troubleshooting was difficult for him today. Also I'd be without water for most, if not all, of a week if I ordered a pump online.
Maybe next time. If I'm here to watch this time I'll have a better understanding of what I'm working with then. Or if the price is just too outrageous I'll find a workaround for the week and find someone to help me on the DIY route.
Went to local show my mechanic hosted. Alot of cool vehicles to look at.