Raise vent tubes, need help

[James Morse]

Thanks Ron, so are you saying about that trans vent, is that one that I want to run higher? In other words, that IS the trans vent? And I need to put tubing on it and run up higher etc.
Found this Diff Breather Kits - Diff Breather - Products - AIR ON BOARD (AOB)

 

[RonD]

Link is blocked to me

But yes, that metal tube is connected with a short rubber hose to the transmission vent at the top rear of transmission

You can add your own rubber hose and put the end of that hose up higher, with a breather cap of course, lol
Make sure hose can't kink, trans fluid goes from outside temp, say 70deg, to 190deg when running so quite a bit of expansion, probably 12psi pressure build up if it was blocked, so you would start leaking fluid

Differential fluid goes up to about 140degF or so, so less pressure build up but can still cause leaks

 

[James Morse]

That's weird, well, Google Air On Board that's the company
they have all kinds of breather kits for Ranger

I guess you'd want your trans breather to be in a place where you didn't care if some trans fluid came out but I'm thinking since the tube to the breather has some volume seems like it'd have to be super overheated to put actual liquid up to/through the breather.

I thought I was going to have to get up over the trans somehow but since that's the trans vent it makes life pretty easy.
Diff vent are easy to get to. Now to find the xfr case vent, should be a tube there somewhere.

Can put in additional trans cooler but I don't think I'll be running that extreme.
How come there is no gauge for trans fluid temp? Seems like you might want to know that?

How about xfr case how much does that heat up?

 

[RonD]

Transfer case vent is front center between trans tail shaft housing and front drive shaft
Doesn't get that warm maybe 140degF like differentials, but depends on the year, 2001 and up have the chain drive going all the time(Line Axle) which would add a few degrees but not much

You will vent transmission from the top rear not at that tube, although you could try, just no kinks in the hose

 

[James Morse]

Ron you're saying I need to go to where that tube attaches to the trans, take it off, and attach the tubing there? That sounds hard to get to it? But I noticed you'd have to either cut off the metal tube shorter or make a sharp bend coming off of it plus it's right next to the front driveshaft and exhaust left downpipe there, so I get what you're saying it's way better to come off the top of the trans.

Then the metal tube is gone after, sounds like.

 

[gw33gp]

You must be talking about venting for an automatic transmission. My manual transmission does not have a vent tube. I have removed my transmission several times and always wondered why it was not vented. I came to the conclusion that it must vent through the shifting ball/stub on top of the transmission.

 

[James Morse]

Interesting question Ron would know the answer to. I don't see any mention of vent for manual trans in my book for '97.
Maybe they just don't get so hot? It's not the same as auto trans where you have energy in moving fluid that gets bled off as heat depending is auto trans not locked up etc. I think.

Edit, maybe in the top of the shifter housing look for a little hole in it? Guessing.

 

[sgtsandman]

You must be talking about venting for an automatic transmission. My manual transmission does not have a vent tube. I have removed my transmission several times and always wondered why it was not vented. I came to the conclusion that it must vent through the shifting ball/stub on top of the transmission.

Everything I read says the manual transmission vent from the shifter on the top of the transmission. I don’t recall anyone getting into deeper detail on that.

 

[2 bronco 11s]

On the 1350 and 1354 manual transfer case it hooks up on the top of shifter bracket . Should be “ U “ shaped

 

[pjtoledo]

from the tech section, scroll down to the pics.
Ford Ranger Automatic Transmissions - The Ranger Station

 

[RonD]

Yes, M5R1 manuals vent at shifter
Some manuals did/do have a separate vent at the top


If you are preparing for higher water then seal dipstick tube at engine end and trans dipstick tube, just some RTV sealant
Also consider an e-fan with cut-off switch in cab, mechanical fan can soak engine bay and cause stalling
Shroud limits it but doesn't eliminate it

Assuming you already considered the stock Cold Air Intake's level
You can always pop the top off air cleaner for higher water crossings then put it back on on the other side
But snorkels look cooler, lol

 

[James Morse]

Thanks all. The auto trans vent, I can get my hand up in there and feel that it's a rubber connector to the trans that connects to the steel line going down. So you bypass the existing metal line, it can stay there I guess.
Is there any concern about the loop in it, re:

The metal "loop" tube is to condense any ATF vapor that may come out and let it run back into trans once it condenses, so no "oil drips" from the end of the tube

I would think a longer rubber tube would serve the same purpose. I don't think I need to worry too much about liquid from trans coming up through breather, it could, I suppose, but doesn't seem likely.
Should be able to route the hose from the top of the trans to a good place without having to deal with it being close to exhaust/front driveshaft, Right Eric?

If there's potential for odors maybe engine bay isn't best place for the front ones, putting them all between the bed and cab sounds good (what Eric did).
And you (Eric) have 3 but there should be 4 for me, you have one less because of manual trans.

I'll check out about sealing at the other locations and fan and etc. Seems like that's getting up higher, don't know if I'd ever be in that deep but definitely worth checking those things out.

Ford says manual hubs are sealed, they shouldn't get water in them... yeah Milemakers have o-ring, whether they are waterproof on the outside I dunno.
Think is if you thought they were wet seems like you could just take them off and put in the sun a while. And I suppose they can be taken apart.

 

[Curious Hound]

Ford says manual hubs are sealed, they shouldn't get water in them... yeah Milemakers have o-ring, whether they are waterproof on the outside I dunno.
Think is if you thought they were wet seems like you could just take them off and put in the sun a while. And I suppose they can be taken apart.

There is another o-ring behind the cap (the knob you turn to lock/unlock them). As long as both o-rings are in good condition, your hub is sealed and good.

 

[gw33gp]

My 02 FX4 (Level II equivalent), has extended tubes from the factory. The transfer case and rear differential vents terminate up by the top of the gas filler hose. The front differential vent terminates in the engine bay near the firewall and brake master cylinder. That has worked well for me.

Another thing you can do for deep water crossings is to wrap a tarp around the front of the vehicle and keep moving while crossing. This creates an air pocket to keep water out of the engine and bay. If you stop, you better shut off the engine quickly and have a means to tow it out. You will need to get the tarp off after the water crossing too or you will overheat the engine.

My 89 STX did not have extended vent tubes. I was not aware of issues with water crossings. After a few water crossings, I did not think to change the differential fluids. Within a year, my front differential gears began making a terrible noise. I took it to the shop that installed the 4.10 gears and they found considerable corrosion on the gears from the water that was in there. Replacement of the gears and differential bearings got me back on the road again. I was very aware of changing gear lube or at least checking for water in the differentials after water crossing after that.

My rear differential never had a problem with water intrusion. Apparently, the front made a wake which lowered the water height for the rear.

 

[James Morse]

Really helpful info thanks much.
Maybe I imitate FX setup.
You don't have trans vent but it could probably go with the front diff or else with the other two.
I bet the re-do of the diff was a lot of money. Yeah that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid thanks for sharing that.
For s&g here's Broad Run Road that's where I got over like I think four crossings didn't get to the end of them yet. Water was lower than what they show here.
Iit seems like some of these roads just go back and forth across creeks so I figure if it's going to happen a lot then I should set up for it.
Glad manual hubs are sealed and glad to be rid of the crazy key arrangement the auto hubs have. Plus you don't worry about the engaging/disengaging business. Ford says just leave them engaged all the time if you want. Is that true? And if so then why even bother making them able to be disengaged?
Broad Run Road - Off Road with Jeeps in Virginia | Multiple Water Crossings - YouTube
Bald Mt it's probably too extreme for me there's lots of vids on it. Same with Potts Mt, parts of it I might do.
There are a ton of roads in the Nat'l Forest there are detailed maps from Forest Service "Motor Vehicle Use Maps 2015" (Kpdf) but they are such small scale I need to print some out in area where I intend to go and paste them together.
I don't mind if some aren't tough off-roading lots are going to be just dirt roads going through the forest that's fine. But I do like some moderate challenges.
If I were going on something more difficult than moderate I think I'd want a buddy with me because if you get stuck you might be there a while.
Sometimes you think you are going somewhere and find out they gate locked the road. I think in hunting season all the roads are open though.