Ok, next step of The Missing Linc reveal: lights & electronics
light bar:
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First, notice the incredible Craftsmanship of the bar itself. I started with a beat up old truck bed toolbox lid, cut it to the right width, spliced the middle with another piece of toolbox lid, etc. The main uprights are two pieces of aluminum channel I got from the fencing that goes around an escalator in a department store. The angled uprights are a couple pieces from the eight pieces of 1 inch aluminum angle I got on craigslist. And of course Rust oleum.
The two chrome floodlights were harbor freight closeouts at $6.99 each. That amber beacon has been in the shed of miracles for decades. On the back of the lid, the five red lights are set up as running lights, but they have high low brightness. Three center flash three quick, three slow and then solid when I step on the brakes. The two outside red and ambers next to them flash with the turn signals and brakes.
The two mini floods on the bottom, and the clear three-quarter inch LED marker lights work off the reverse switch, but I also have a manual switch to turn them on if I want.
The traffic alert/annunciator bar is one of the rare things that I actually bought brand new, I think it was about $140 on eBay with the light-display controller. If you guys ever get a traffic alert bar, make sure you get it with the light display controller. Otherwise it’s a pain to figure out what pattern it’s flashing which can also be dangerous if you’re stuck in the road.
The cab lights are the triple LED in a smoke housing. I had chrome and amber, but it clashed with the flag logo too much.
I took the face off the ashtray, and used a little piece of scrap aluminum to make a bracket and attach the annunciator controller. That way it’s at my fingertips just above the shift Knob. I also added a dual USB outlet between the shifters below the dash so I didn’t have all those wires sticking out of the cigarette lighter hole.
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inside up top:
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I cut a chunk out of the box of the truck box to make the switch housing. I had to trim about an inch off the inside edge of both sunvisors, I got rid of the clips on the inside, and now they mount in a hole on the side of the housing, so you can’t swing them to the side. I used cardboard to contour the sides to the ceiling, and then I covered it with black felt.
The little black controller switch on the left shoots out 13 different 2-circuit flash patterns, $11. I have 6-LED amber strobe lights below each headlight, on the front and rear corner sides, and then I have four between the tailgate and the back bumper. Those 6-LEDs are not very bright, but they still really catch the eye.
The switches, left to right, are the amber beacon, a spare, the reverse lights and floods, and then the forward facing floods. Each has an LED above. For the reverse lights, the LED flashes so I don’t forget to turn them off. Everything except the forward facing floods are LEDs, so you don’t need a relay. They are 20 amp switches, so I shouldn’t need it for the floods either. I’m trying it that way with an extra fuse in the line. I’ll add a relay if I need to.
The CB radio is a vintage almost pristine Cobra 148 Nightwatch Sound Tracker. To this day, aficionados believe it’s one of the best you could ever buy. I wanted the vintage look. It’s a 40 channel single side band, and I believe the only modification is that it’s been peaked and tuned when I got it. I added an echo mic. The signal shoots out from 102” whip that I mounted on the left rear fender. Note the funky stainless barrel spring, I got a couple of those mounts who knows where years ago in a garage sale or such.
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Can I post a small video here? I wanted to get a shot of the front and the back in the evening with all the lights on. Will that upload?
More to come…
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