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2.3L ('83-'97) Stumped... odd cry for help


Mianus

Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
13
City
Seattle
Vehicle Year
1995
Transmission
Manual
okay so I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 l two-wheel drive
to start off with my Ranger starter has been broke for some time now so I just got used to pop starting it and I haven't really tried to fix the starter or get a new one because this seemed relatively harmless and was easy enough to do to get around.

so it used to pop start fine and then one day I was sitting outside of a Burger King trying to order off the app I was sitting there idling when I was done when I went to go press the gas pedal all of a sudden it started crawling. I would pump the gas, switch gears, basically tried everything and there was no change in the response from my engine to try and go faster.

ever since that day I have not been able to get my Ranger to start and stay running if I'm not going downhill and even if I am going downhill I get no response from the gas pedal whatsoever and it just sits there at below idle speed and just basically moves forward off the momentum we're going downhill but the engine is running and things are turning just fast enough to slowly charge the battery when it's happening obviously it's not enough to keep a charge for more than I would still things are turning.

I'm just trying to figure out what is preventing a response to the engine from the gas pedal I've changed the throttle position sensor but I guess regardless I read that the sensor doesn't really do much except for takes care of the lag you might get when trying to quickly accelerate. pretty stumped on what the issue can be giving the initial factor of the problem starting of me essentially doing nothing except for trying to press on the gas pedal after idling for a few minutes on level surface so any hint or brainstorming is greatly appreciated for a few weeks now one main reason is just due to the facts it's really hard to diagnose it when I have to be on a hill and get a running start just to try and start the car just to have it die seconds later
 
Not saying this will fix your "real" problem, but the couple of first things I would do is replace the starter and charge the battery -- and make sure the battery is still healthy enough to stay charged.
Then go from there....
 
I've changed the throttle position sensor but I guess regardless I read that the sensor doesn't really do much except for takes care of the lag you might get when trying to quickly accelerate.
It does a lot more than that. When you open or close the throttle, you are adjusting how much air gets into the engine. The TPS tells the computer the throttle position so that the ecu (computer) can change how long the injectors are open each time they cycle. That is what controls how much fuel is admitted to each cylinder so you have the proper fuel to air ratio.

even though you replaced the TPS, you could have gotten a bad one. Cleaning your mass air flow sensor may be helpful. You should also check fuel pressure and check for vacuum leaks.
also, as Rumblecloud mentioned, check your electrical system. If your voltage isn’t right, nothing will be right.
 
Obviously, the battery staying charge is not related to the gas pedal not working. It's going to be hard to trouble shoot the issues if you can't start the truck and keep it running while it's parked. I agree about fixing these issues first.

As far as the issue with the throttle. What happens if you open the hood and move the throttle by hand? Does the engine react accordingly?

Even if you have a bad sensor somewhere, if you open the throttle, the engine should be able to rev to some extent. Even if it's delayed.

The engine not increasing in rpm at all sounds like there is something physically broken with the throttle linkage.
 
Obviously, the battery staying charge is not related to the gas pedal not working.
Maybe not that obvious. If the pedal, cable, linkage and throttle are working, but voltage for the computer, TPS, injectors, ignition, etc. isn’t right, then all kinds of crazy things can be happening.
 
Pop starting is hard on your cat, just fyi.

Check engine on? Pull codes?
 
If it were mine... I would start by fixing the starter issue. Then verify the charging system... and also verify the throttle cable is connected and working.

Then with all things drivability related... test for proper fuel pressure.
 
ah sorry left out information. i bought a new battery the other day and i am on my way to the yard ti get a starter. codes i was able to pull before running out of hill were cam shaft sensor low input (however after running it with a new battery and so I can get the codes I realized I have the camshaft sensor unplugged accidentally so that may have been the cause for that code) and throttle position sensor voltage input flow p0122 i think. and an 02 code thats been on since inception of the car for me.

after i get the starter in I'll start picking at it more. night get mkre codes popping up as the computer gets more check time. ive recently purchased a maf within the year. when the old one failed i drove with it unplugged to negate it always reading a constant 7.4 or something way higher than a 2.3 should be capable of swallowing and i didnt have issues starting or running. idle wasnt always comfortable but it would run.
 
oh and also linkage is good as far as I know it's connected to the butterfly valve and is moving the butterfly valve and I was only able to have the engine running long enough once to flap the valve without the car dying and I want to say it didn't give me any interest in response back when I did it but I was only able to attempt this once because I haven't been able to keep you long enough unless I'm running alongside it while it's going down though
 
The picture is beginning to come into focus now.
 
The picture is of a guy jumping out of his truck while it's rolling down a hill, running along side it, and trying to fiddle with stuff under the engine.

Beautiful.

Maybe try standing on the bumper and have the wife push. :)
 
The TPS does very little for the fueling, mainly just acceleration and deceleration stuff, the mass airflow sensor does way more.

If the timing belt skipped that would make way more sense
 
So it only runs going downhill in gear?

Are you sure its even running and not just cranking the engine over?

Im confused here.
 

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