Going back in.... last time i hope..

[Shadowridr1]

I'm still alost for the O2'S though....

 

[Orca]

DTCs are looking very nice now!

I set the forscan to ABS speed sensors the front 2 were reading the same as the dash, but the rear was reading almost 5mph slower than the other 2. [...] I replaced the OSS sensor and still had the ABS code. So I went back in got the ABS sensor and all good.

Something that's not clear to me: It sounds like replacing the rear axle sensor got rid of the ABS code. But did it make the FORScan-reported rear wheels' speed match the 2 front wheels / dashboard speedometer speeds?

I put a test light on the 41 fuse and it's good. I pulled it and ohm tested it as well. Same results....

OK, since the O2 heater issue is not the fuse, I'd be thinking about looking at the wiring. But... maybe it makes sense to first do what @mc17eln wisely suggested: "finishing the drive cycles to clear the P1000". In other words, I wonder if the Mode $06 O2 heater current test results are possibly misleading because the O2 sensor monitor hasn't completed? In fact, a valid question now is, "Which of the vehicle monitors" (per FORScan) have/haven't completed?" FWIW, I'd be running the Ford drive cycle to get rid of that P1000 now.

Great progress! Keep up the good work!

 

[Shadowridr1]

DTCs are looking very nice now!Something that's not clear to me: It sounds like replacing the rear axle sensor got rid of the ABS code. But did it make the FORScan-reported rear wheels' speed match the 2 front wheels / dashboard speedometer speeds?OK, since the O2 heater issue is not the fuse, I'd be thinking about looking at the wiring. But... maybe it makes sense to first do what @mc17eln wisely suggested: "finishing the drive cycles to clear the P1000". In other words, I wonder if the Mode $06 O2 heater current test results are possibly misleading because the O2 sensor monitor hasn't completed? In fact, a valid question now is, "Which of the vehicle monitors" (per FORScan) have/haven't completed?" FWIW, I'd be running the Ford drive cycle to get rid of that P1000 now.

Great progress! Keep up the good work!

It's dark by the time I got both sensors in. I still don't have the bed on, so no taillights... I'm going to ATTEMPT the p1000 clear after I get back from my next train ride. I'm hoping the wife and I can get the bed back on tomorrow...

 

[Shadowridr1]

Well, got up this morning and opened the garage door. Stood there and looked at the MANGER for a min, no bed, no hood filler neck all hanging out. Opened the door, put the key in the ignition, said a couple short prayers and turned her on. Ohh man she started right up, no misfire or odd idle.... backed her out and the wife and I put the bed on and I got it bolted down right before work called.... so this leaves 3 things to get done.... clear the p1000, figure out why my o2's are not reading heater current if the p1000 don't help that situation. And THE PING/ KNOCK that is going on. I'm trying to figure out how to record or make a video of it. Of course me being me, I'm worried it's the damn timing chain and I'll have to tear back into the engine now that I've finally got it going good....

 

[Shadowridr1]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

Best I can do right now, sorry... any thoughts on what this engine rattle might be??

 

[mc17eln]

but if it's good then the only thing left to go wrong would be pistons, timing chain, water pump or crank cause everything else is new

That's from your initial post. Among them, the easy one will the water pump, which will also expose the timing chain. However, Vulcan timing chain is very short (unlike the long dual-chain in the 4.0 Cologne). I saw in the video that you only have 116k miles. I have 190k and the original chain only has a small slack.

Can you narrow down where the rattle comes from? I can only hear it at the end of the video outside of the cab. May be get a fresh pair of ears and a crawler.

 

[Shadowridr1]

That's from your initial post. Among them, the easy one will the water pump, which will also expose the timing chain. However, Vulcan timing chain is very short (unlike the long dual-chain in the 4.0 Cologne). I saw in the video that you only have 116k miles. I have 190k and the original chain only has a small slack.

Can you narrow down where the rattle comes from? I can only hear it at the end of the video outside of the cab. May be get a fresh pair of ears and a crawler.

I'll try. I'll pop the hood and video from under it, see if that helps.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Sounds like you have a rocker arm about to come off.

Does it make noise at idle or only above 2k rpms?

 

[mc17eln]

He has a new pair of cylinder heads, and it runs good with no misfire and bad smell. Opening the valve covers to verify is easy enough, then again, rattle inside the VC is also easy to distinguish from elsewhere.

 

[Shadowridr1]

Sounds like you have a rocker arm about to come off.

Does it make noise at idle or only above 2k rpms?

No sir at 2k it comes then stops. Anything over 2500 it comes and stays. If I'm driving it's the same. If I let off the gas and let the engine slow the truck it stays till rpms are below 2500

He has a new pair of cylinder heads, and it runs good with no misfire and bad smell. Opening the valve covers to verify is easy enough, then again, rattle inside the VC is also easy to distinguish from elsewhere.

Here's another video with the hood open.

 

[Shadowridr1]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Shadowridr1]

Here's another of that same vid.. that I slowed down. The rocker on #3 looks odd but I can't tell if it's shadows or if the springs are not moving. It also looks like the rocker is bouncing off the spring.

 

[pjtoledo]

the camera frame rate is really making it difficult to see. pull the plugs out and crank it over by hand, check lash.
look closely at the cup in the lifters to see how far they are depressed.

 

[Shadowridr1]

the camera frame rate is really making it difficult to see. pull the plugs out and crank it over by hand, check lash.
look closely at the cup in the lifters to see how far they are depressed.

The first video or the one above that one is the same one but at regular speed and not zoomed in

 

[mc17eln]

Video doesn't help. With the valve cover on and your camera in your pocket, can you tell where the clicking comes from? Ask your daughter to help -- again, listening, not shooting videos, then render her opinion of where the sound comes from. A mechanics stethoscope can help too: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM?tag=959media-20