What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[alwaysFlOoReD]

This is absolutely invaluable also https://www.eastwood.com/universal-...kedid=491598523420&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1

Thanks for the link. I can see that being very useful.

 

[Uncle Gump]

It bends like butter and lasts forever. I nicopped my 79 K20 about 10 years ago and that stuff will be like new when the truck finally does fall apart.
Yeah i mastered the art of brake lines a long time ago. If the lines rusted in the fitting i just drill it out. This is absolutely invaluable also https://www.eastwood.com/universal-...kedid=491598523420&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1

Plus if i did scrap an unobtanium fitting i can crank one out in the Mazak at work no problem.

Just making sure you were aware rusty... many folks here aren't as well versed as you with such things.

I've managed to save most things with my Snap-On thread repair kit and a full set of thread files... but that thread repair tool looks slick. I will have to remember that for when I stop spending money on the Bronco.

 

[Roert42]

I've had good luck with the Ni-Cop brake lines as well. Did them on my F-150. You do not need a bender to install them, which is great for someone who is new to this hobby or doing it out of necessity.

However, they are bright and shiny, so they stick out under your truck. If you get sloppy routing them it's obvious.

 

[pjtoledo]

Just making sure you were aware rusty... many folks here aren't as well versed as you with such things.

I've managed to save most things with my Snap-On thread repair kit and a full set of thread files... but that thread repair tool looks slick. I will have to remember that for when I stop spending money on the Bronco.

we wish you good luck with that

 

[supercrawler]

Manual window to power window conversion has done.
Pretty simple task .

 

[RustyShackleford94]

Just making sure you were aware rusty... many folks here aren't as well versed as you with such things.

I've managed to save most things with my Snap-On thread repair kit and a full set of thread files... but that thread repair tool looks slick. I will have to remember that for when I stop spending money on the Bronco.

Coming from a true machinist, that thread repair tool is hands down the best thread repair tool on the market. They make on similar for internal treads as well.

 

[broncc]

I'm a firm believer the only way to save a car is my making it oily. Figured I'd still put down some rust primer and paint first...

 

[sgtsandman]

I'm a firm believer the only way to save a car is my making it oily. Figured I'd still put down some rust primer and paint first...

View attachment 66908

I recommend Fluid Film. In a 5 gallon bucket if you have an air compressor. Hose that underside down! It will last about a year.

 

[pjtoledo]

I recommend Fluid Film. In a 5 gallon bucket if you have an air compressor. Hose that underside down! It will last about a year.

the guy that has done my Rangers uses less than 2 quarts per application. perhaps that's why it's called a film

 

[RustyShackleford94]

ACF50 is my preferred anti corrosion. Pretty much because its in a spray can and its used heavily in aviation.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I recommend Fluid Film. In a 5 gallon bucket if you have an air compressor. Hose that underside down! It will last about a year.

My 2.8 did all that automatically.

When I pulled the engine the front crossmember had perfect black paint!

 

[sgtsandman]

the guy that has done my Rangers uses less than 2 quarts per application. perhaps that's why it's called a film

It's cheaper in volume. I think I've used more than that in rattle cans on my trucks though. I get in all the nooks and crannies with it. I'm told the professional fluid film is thicker and more waxy. So, less may be more in that regard.

 

[pjtoledo]

It's cheaper in volume. I think I've used more than that in rattle cans on my trucks though. I get in all the nooks and crannies with it. I'm told the professional fluid film is thicker and more waxy. So, less may be more in that regard.

with rattle cans I usually apply wayyyy too much. it spreads over time, crept up the outside of a door about 3"

 

[ThatOneGuy]

Hey guys been busy with work and, the old honey do list. Anyway after work today I picked up my 1350 manual shift t-case, and mocked it up on the m50d which has the mounting boses for the manual shift linkage, however the smaller bolt hole isn't in the right spot, and the shift arm does not reach the transfer case. Now I know I can just fab and weld to fix this, however I was wondering if anyone might have the correct manual t-case shift linkage for an m50d.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Hey guys been busy with work and, the old honey do list. Anyway after work today I picked up my 1350 manual shift t-case, and mocked it up on the m50d which has the mounting boses for the manual shift linkage, however the smaller bolt hole isn't in the right spot, and the shift arm does not reach the transfer case. Now I know I can just fab and weld to fix this, however I was wondering if anyone might have the correct manual t-case shift linkage for an m50d.

You have the early lever set, you need the A4ld/m5od one.

Fun fact: the lever on the tcase can be different and some are not removable.

Floor linkage / bracket to transfer case

Greetings. I'm cleaning up the 5spd swap on my '86 BII. Truck was originally an auto w/the floor mounted transfer case shifter. The previous owner swapped in a FM145 5spd. I'm assuming it was out of a ranger because the front drive shaft is old and crusty and the rear is brand new. Dude bragged...

www.therangerstation.com