What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

You can walk naked outside in public almost anywhere and they’ll put you in a climate controlled environment and feed you too.

I haven’t tried it myself self…

 

[1990RangerinSK]

You can walk naked outside in public almost anywhere and they’ll put you in a climate controlled environment and feed you too.

I haven’t tried it myself self…

Please don't. Everybody around you would die of fright.

 

[Dirtman]

Why?

 

[1990RangerinSK]

Why?

Zed?

 

[scotts90ranger]

No comment on my climate, we don't need any more SoCal peeps screwing with the already screwed local government... no offence to the SoCal peeps, the guys on here are usually fine, but those that leave Ca for it's BS then try to add that BS here can just go suck a goat... no offence Dirtman, unless lawyer goat likes that kinda thing, never mind I won't ask that question, I don't wanna know the answer

Anywho, the '97 did daily driver duty again, went to the store to get some more oil for the F350, some beer and other stuff then I went home and added oil and coolant to the F350, changed the coolant expansion bottle, pulled off the washer fluid reservoir and pried the bracket up some to hopefully help the new to me replacement not rub the bottom off on the inner fender... The new one (I now have 3, all have same problem) was the best I have but still thin and cracked so I cleaned it up and spread some silicone on the bottom, I will put that on later... So far I can actually hear the turbo now, unloaded once it warmed up I can get to about 20psi boost where it was like 13 before. The real test will be in a month when I load the camper up and tow the 3500lb boat behind the thing over the pass... in my experience it's driven great up to 12000lb then gets doggy and runs hot, I have a feeling having a turbo that actually spins will help... Don't get me wrong, I know for sure it still needs new injectors and an intercooler, I'm not expecting night and day difference, just faster than 38mph up the pass because I'm slowing down to not overheat... If I could maintain 50 I would be ecstatic...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Oh, and if anyone is in the market for a vacuum fill kit for cooling systems, I will endorse the Harbor Freight unit as seen HERE. I unplugged the shop lights and fired up the 2hp air compressor (don't ask, I'm running off a 20A glass fuse right now...) and it put a full 25" vacuum on the system in a couple minutes and sucked in the 6 gallons of coolant back into the system. The rubber grommets fit good and the expansion screw deal was unexpected but nice...

 

[Dirtman]

You got a goat problem bro?

 

[sgtsandman]

Did the final hinge, latch, and door seal lubes on the 2011. Other than new wipers, it’s good for the summer.

I still wanna change the u-joints on the drive shafts but they aren’t “must do” just a preventative maintenance “want to do”.

 

[Dirtman]

Went to change the oil this morning before work, drained it all out then went to go grab my jug of oil only to find I had no 5w20 left and the parts store wasn't open....

Off to a good start...

 

[Blmpkn]

Squeeze the grease out of those gray sweatpants and fill er up with that.

 

[Rick W]

No comment on my climate, we don't need any more SoCal peeps screwing with the already screwed local government... no offence to the SoCal peeps, the guys on here are usually fine, but those that leave Ca for it's BS then try to add that BS here can just go suck a goat... no offence Dirtman, unless lawyer goat likes that kinda thing, never mind I won't ask that question, I don't wanna know the answer

Anywho, the '97 did daily driver duty again, went to the store to get some more oil for the F350, some beer and other stuff then I went home and added oil and coolant to the F350, changed the coolant expansion bottle, pulled off the washer fluid reservoir and pried the bracket up some to hopefully help the new to me replacement not rub the bottom off on the inner fender... The new one (I now have 3, all have same problem) was the best I have but still thin and cracked so I cleaned it up and spread some silicone on the bottom, I will put that on later... So far I can actually hear the turbo now, unloaded once it warmed up I can get to about 20psi boost where it was like 13 before. The real test will be in a month when I load the camper up and tow the 3500lb boat behind the thing over the pass... in my experience it's driven great up to 12000lb then gets doggy and runs hot, I have a feeling having a turbo that actually spins will help... Don't get me wrong, I know for sure it still needs new injectors and an intercooler, I'm not expecting night and day difference, just faster than 38mph up the pass because I'm slowing down to not overheat... If I could maintain 50 I would be ecstatic...

Do you know the baking soda and superglue trick? YouTube it, but I have a twist.

If you have a hole in something plastic like that expansion tub, first make sure it’s dry and free from any kind of oil‘s or chemicals. You can do that with some carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Then sprinkle a little bit of the baking SODA around the hole. Then dribble super glue on the baking soda. It instantly sets and it’s rock hard.

Practice on something scrap. Usually if you have a tiny bit bigger hole, it’s better to do it three or four times then to put a lot of baking soda down. When you try it, if you get it right, the patch will almost be clear. If there are fuzzy white spots inside the patch, that’s baking soda that didn’t get kicked over.

I’ve used it on plastic gas and diesel cans, I’ve used it on plastic radiator heads, and I’ve even used it on a lot of metal stuff and other things where I need a quickset really hard glue/plastic/filler.

Here’s my extra twist. If the inner fender is the thing that’s rubbing on it and wearing a, I think this super glue/baking soda patch will be stronger than the plastic and it won’t scrape through. I don’t think the silicone will last very long at all, but that’s not a criticism. With the superglue and baking soda trick, after you plug the hole and thicken the container wall, you can also make up a skid plate to absorb the erosion. It could be another piece of tougher plastic, a piece of rubber gasket material, a piece of aluminum, etc. If you spread the contact area out, and use something like aluminum, it will polish the aluminum and the top of the inner fender but never break through

My two cents, hope it helps

BAKING SODA, not baking powder.

EDIT/AFTERTHOUGHT: it’s pretty hard, but you can also sand or grind it, file it. I’ve done it a bunch, it’s hard to do it smooth from the tube

 

[pjtoledo]

gathered up some spare metal and commenced to drillin' cuttin' & bending.

@racsan that piece of red steel should look familiar.

 

[Dirtman]

gathered up some spare metal and commenced to drillin' cuttin' & bending.

@racsan that piece of red steel should look familiar.

View attachment 61429

Does that engine stand rotate with a crank?

 

[pjtoledo]

sure does. but I will have to raise the axle an inch to fully rotate it.
makes it easier to mount, stand the axle on end, raise a bit with blocks, slide adapter next to it then bolt it on.
I added a second pic

 

[Bgunner]

Oh, and if anyone is in the market for a vacuum fill kit for cooling systems, I will endorse the Harbor Freight unit as seen HERE. I unplugged the shop lights and fired up the 2hp air compressor (don't ask, I'm running off a 20A glass fuse right now...) and it put a full 25" vacuum on the system in a couple minutes and sucked in the 6 gallons of coolant back into the system. The rubber grommets fit good and the expansion screw deal was unexpected but nice...

A friend of mine used the Harbor Freight vacume kit also and it worked well on his 6.4 so I wouldn't hesitate to use it if needed.