@Jim Oaks
I’m coming late to this dance again, I’m not getting the email notices on this one for some reason, no biggie.
A couple of thoughts: on the electrical box, some of these guys know electrical much better than I, but I vaguely remember you’re not supposed to run more than one circuit in any box for such residential after the main box or a sub panel. I think it’s code so that somebody doesn’t turn off one breaker and think everything is off and go digging in a box with a hot circuit. It’s not just a matter of whether the wires will fit or not.
Second thought on the bathroom light, that needs to be covered by your ground fault too. I think it’s anything electrical that you can reach, plus like one or 2 feet, so a light above the mirror would definitely be in the range.
I’m not finding fault with anything anybody said, but the only reason you have to seal that drain pipe is so that vapors don’t come back into the living space. I think you know that two bolts, one on each side of the bottom, unbolt them in the toilet comes up. It may be sticky cause it’s stuck on a wax ring. Then you can see what kind of drain pipe you’ve got underneath it.
On the toilet flange, if there’s some reason you have to have that floor perfectly flat in that kind of shop, even if it’s just what you want, let us know.
If you don’t want a bump in one spot, you can seal the drain, and then just build up the floor with some pressure treated two by twos, with plywood on top or such. You could do that across the whole floor, or you could do that across part of the floor. I think there’s a lot of wisdom in maintaining the flange for a later date.
If you keep the flange, it has bolt holes around it, so sealing it is as simple as making a piece of flat plastic, using a wax ring just as if it had a toilet on it, and bolting that flat piece of plastic across the top to seal it. Or you can use silicone, but the problem will be cleaning the old wax off the flange and pipe before you put your cover plate down. The silicone won’t stick to the wax.
If there’s no room to work on it, you can get a hammer drill and stitch out a circle or a rectangle around the flange, and then break it out with a hammer. You’ll also be able to find out how thick it is when you do that. Then, you can cut or just break up the pipe. You can lay some vinyl over the top, ideally wrapped around the pipe, but I don’t think that’s mandatory. Then you can fill up the hole flush with sand mix concrete or mortar mix. The vinyl is to prevent vapors from coming up, it doesn’t have to be waterproof. That point on your sewer line is high, so it’s unlikely any water would come up through there that you wouldn’t know about for 1000 other reasons, and if you simply put the vinyl down and then pour cement over it, vapor intrusion should be eliminated.
I put a toilet in my shop, and instead of a little hand wash sink, I put in the laundry tub. It’s been great for most of the 20 some odd years. My three or 4 inch PVC drain line from the commode has the bare minimum fall on it to intercept the line into my septic tank with correct fall. I didn’t catch it until too late, but a tree right outside of that bathroom has distorted the drain pipe in the ground, I can tell from the clean out. I’ve been debating whether I should pull the toilet and install a urinal, but nobody’s in there when I’m not in there and I’ve been baking sure people know they can only go number one. Obviously, if I could do it over again, I would’ve just planted the tree in a different place. But I’d love to have the capability of handling all my needs in there, including anything that might come up with a couple of hot chicks!
& the window looks fab!
My 2 cents, hope it helps!
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