Cold lower radiator hose.

[Jeremy-b]

Well the problems continue with this truck. Not even sure if it’s worth keep fixing. But the problem now is lower radiator hose is cold when all other hoses are hot. And a stupid question should I be able to spin my shock in a circle in place. I have a rattle. Pretty sure it’s that. And help would be greatly appreciated. I know little to nothing about trucks. But try my best.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Technically... the lower hose should be cooler then the top hose. It should get hot though if the engine was run to operating temperature for several minutes.

Is the truck over heating?

 

[Jeremy-b]

Technically... the lower hose should be cooler then the top hose. It should get hot though if the engine was run to operating temperature for several minutes.

Is the truck over heating?

It stays cold after it’s been running for a while. It’s not over heating. Heat works fine. It’s a 01 ranger. 4.0 6 cyl. Sohc. 4x4.

 

[Uncle Gump]

If it truly stayed "cold"... the engine would Have to overheat... because coolant would not be circulating.

As I said before... the lower hose should be cooler because it supplies coolant to the engine after it has dissipated heat in the radiator.

Edit... so tell us what is the symptom you are trying to correct?

 

[Jeremy-b]

If it truly stayed "cold"... the engine would Have to overheat... because coolant would not be circulating.

As I said before... the lower hose should be cooler because it supplies coolant to the engine after it has dissipated heat in the radiator.

Edit... so tell us what is the symptom you are trying to correct?

Upper radiator hose is hard as a rock or is collapsed. It’s been burped a couple times

 

[scotts90ranger]

The lower hose should be AT LEAST 30F lower temperature than the upper hose or the radiator isn't working, so that's fine... And I'm assuming the collapsed upper hose is after you've shut it down and let it sit for half hour or so? If so, that's normal too... hot liquids have a higher volume than the same liquid cold, at some point it will create enough vacuum to suck from the overflow bottle then equalize in pressure with atmosphere.

If the metal shield on the outside of the shock is loose enough to spin, that could be a rattle, the other common rattles are catalytic converter heat shields, the Ford factory fix is a big hose clamp...

 

[Jeremy-b]

The lower hose should be AT LEAST 30F lower temperature than the upper hose or the radiator isn't working, so that's fine... And I'm assuming the collapsed upper hose is after you've shut it down and let it sit for half hour or so? If so, that's normal too... hot liquids have a higher volume than the same liquid cold, at some point it will create enough vacuum to suck from the overflow bottle then equalize in pressure with atmosphere.

If the metal shield on the outside of the shock is loose enough to spin, that could be a rattle, the other common rattles are catalytic converter heat shields, the Ford factory fix is a big hose clamp...

The truck takes the bumps hard. How can you tell there bad while there in. The one Is pretty loose in. And spins in a complete circle. Thank you for your help.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If they are stock they are likely shot, when shocks are worn out they usually don't dampen the suspension action, if you go over a bump and it keeps bouncing after it then they're worn out. In the case of my F350 I was just going to replace the bushings until I undid the bottom bolt and there was no compression in it, the two rear shocks I took off are still fully compressed just sitting on the bench... they should be loaded with nitrogen and have some rebound...

 

[Jeremy-b]

If they are stock they are likely shot, when shocks are worn out they usually don't dampen the suspension action, if you go over a bump and it keeps bouncing after it then they're worn out. In the case of my F350 I was just going to replace the bushings until I undid the bottom bolt and there was no compression in it, the two rear shocks I took off are still fully compressed just sitting on the bench... they should be loaded with nitrogen and have some rebound...

My back one pushes in pretty easy. And releases like a rocket. The front one not sure. But my ride is bouncy. Kinda like a slow motion trampoline effect. It’s been one thing after another lately. Thank you very much for your time.

 

[cbxer55]

My 98 Ranger beats me to death. But, this area is Potholes R Us. Even after you are familiar with all the potholes in a road, the next day there's a new one. Someone needs to develop a pothole radar.

 

[RonD]

Upper radiator hose is hard as a rock or is collapsed. It’s been burped a couple times

With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine

 

[Bgunner]

To test shocks/struts while installed on a vehicle:

Bounce the vehicle corners and count the bounces after. This means bounce the one corner at a time but really get that corner bouncing, if needed have a friend help as some suspensions are really stiff, once bouncing good let go at the same time and count how many bounces the corner does after you stop. It should not bounce more than 3-4 times total. If it bounces more than that either the shock on that corner is worn or is bad. Repeat this step on all corners. Replace is sets of 2, both fronts or both rears.

 

[Jeremy-b]

With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine

Wow first off, thank you for taking the time to answer. Your info has been very helpful. I have burped it 4 different times. The flow is continuous with the cap off and running. So I probably won’t be putting anymore money in this. Thank you again.

 

[Jeremy-b]

To test shocks/struts while installed on a vehicle:

Bounce the vehicle corners and count the bounces after. This means bounce the one corner at a time but really get that corner bouncing, if needed have a friend help as some suspensions are really stiff, once bouncing good let go at the same time and count how many bounces the corner does after you stop. It should not bounce more than 3-4 times total. If it bounces more than that either the shock on that corner is worn or is bad. Repeat this step on all corners. Replace is sets of 2, both fronts or both rears.

Thank you for your time. That actually solved my issue.

 

[Jeremy-b]

With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine

I just also went and blown in the overflow hose I couldn’t even blow air through it it is definitely a clogged