Self adjuster setup?

[nola mike]

Just replaced a rusted/leaking brake line, wheel cylinders and shoes. All went ok except that the self adjuster is wonky. Doesn't seem to adjust. Pics attached, it was in this position when removed, and both adjusters were all the way in despite significant shoe wear. The pawl doesn't engage very tightly, and I think it should be beneath the star wheel

 

[Sandho]

I just had a similar issue with a right rear not self adjusting at all. That wheel wanted to lock up occasionally when coming to a stop due to that brake being too loose.
My adjuster arm was under the star spanner and didn’t even have contact. The attached cable was too long so I added a few twists to shorten it up a bit. It looks better but I’ll be changing out the shoes & hardware sometime soon.
Would almost appear that yours may be a bit too short.

 

[RonD]

Adjuster lever should be down lower, as seen here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attac...d1501462297-replace-rear-brakes-drumbrake.jpg

When e-brake cable is tightened the shoes expand and the lever moves up, turning the star wheel OUT.......if possible, it can't over tighten the shoes, so will just click over the teeth if shoes are tight
Star wheels have a left and right just like the levers

 

[Dirtman]

The cable the holds the adjuster lever up does not look right, you may have it wrapped around wrong or it's too short. (Could be one for 9" brakes and you have 10")

 

[nola mike]

Yeah, so that's what I thought. It's like that on both sides. I don't think the cable is routed wrong or wrapped around anything. Like I said, it was like that when I opened it up. Strange. To replace that cable, do I need to remove the shoes? That may be something that doesn't happen...

 

[Uncle Gump]

You can replace the self adjuster cable with the shoes in place. It's usually the last thing i hook up when doing these drum brakes.

If the drum is still off... maybe post a couple more pictures so we can see the entire assembly.

 

[Dirtman]

Im with gump, take a pic of the whole assembly.

 

[nola mike]

I have everything back together and it's working fine. I don't have any more "after" pics, but these are the "before". Looks the same now. Unless you're houdini I don't see how you'd replace that cable with the springs on there. I verified that the adjuster pawls are on the correct side.

 

[RonD]

The rear brake shoes are adjusted automatically when you back up and use the regular brakes to stop

Or each time you use the E-brake pedal
After replacing rear brake shoes, and drums are on(and/or wheels), you can hold out the e-brake release and pump the e-brake pedal, you should feel it tighten up, pedal doesn't go down as far
That adjusts the new shoes so they are centered and just barely rubbing when e-brake pedal is up all the way

 

[nola mike]

The rear brake shoes are adjusted automatically when you back up and use the regular brakes to stop

If the mechanism is working. I don't think mine is set up correctly, nor do I think it was previously. When I took those brakes apart, the adjusting screw was still turned all the way in.

 

[RonD]

No they weren't, and regular brake pedal probably went down a long way, lol, to fill the slaves with enough fluid to press shoes against drums

Pump e-brake pedal to see if they are working now

 

[nola mike]

No they weren't, and regular brake pedal probably went down along way, lol, to fill the slaves with enough fluid to press shoes against drums

Pump e-brake pedal to see if they are working now

Not sure what you're saying here? I still get a good amount of pedal travel before engagement, but not sure what's normal. I do know that pulling on the self adjustment cable doesn't turn the wheel, and the lever is still sitting above the wheel.

 

[RonD]

Pump e-brake pedal and see if pedal tightens up, gets less and less travel

Then start engine and try regular brakes, should be less travel

 

[Uncle Gump]

I have everything back together and it's working fine. I don't have any more "after" pics, but these are the "before". Looks the same now. Unless you're houdini I don't see how you'd replace that cable with the springs on there. I verified that the adjuster pawls are on the correct side.

View attachment 58485View attachment 58486View attachment 58487View attachment 58488

Well you asked if the shoes can stay in place... they can... but you would have to release the return springs from the anchor pin to put the cable behind the return springs. Houdini not required.

They are also assembled wrong in your picture... the cable is behind the anchor pin plate (first picture). It should go anchor pin plate... self adjusting cable... then return springs. Trust me on not having to take shoes off to replace cable. Pop those springs off the anchor pin and switch stuff around... shoes never come off the backing plate.

The brake shoes should be pulled tight to the anchor pin... they are not. This will certainly give you a low pedal. Looks to me like they need to be adjusted tighter and it may fix the gap between the anchor pin and the shoes.

 

[Uncle Gump]

If the mechanism is working. I don't think mine is set up correctly, nor do I think it was previously. When I took those brakes apart, the adjusting screw was still turned all the way in.

It is screwed in all the way... it's probably rusted together.

No question in my mind... they need to be adjusted.

Do you have brake spring tools?

Or are you using a screw driver and some channel locks to do the springs?

Judging by all the chipped paint I see laying on the shoe in the very first picture you posted... my guess is you are using pliers and/or channel locks.

I would like to see a picture after you replaced all the parts...