2002 Mazda B3000 3.0 Would greatly appreciate advice/help (starting issues etc...)

[Roert42]

I do not know if the plumbing to your tank is the same as mine, so yours may have different configuration.


I have 2 4.0s 2003 and 2011 both extended cabs. There is so much stuff going to the tank from the top it is really hard to drop the tank.

It took me several hours to replace the pump via dropping the tank on the 2011, plus I broke some connectors so it took me a couple of days to find replacement stuff. I replaced the sender by pulling the bed in the 2003, took me about an hour but i also cleaned and painted the frame rails on the back too.

There are a couple of problems with pulling the bed, you need a friend to help pull it off and a new set of mounting hardware.
If the mounting bolts are original, you will probably break them(unless you live somewhere without rust). The bed is not heavy, but too big to lift alone. I also recommend a 1/2" impact to take out the bed bolts.

 

[Roert42]

2-3000 rpm at start up seems really high, I would expect more like 1200-1500.

 

[gnosis]

I do not know if the plumbing to your tank is the same as mine, so yours may have different configuration.


I have 2 4.0s 2003 and 2011 both extended cabs. There is so much stuff going to the tank from the top it is really hard to drop the tank.

It took me several hours to replace the pump via dropping the tank on the 2011, plus I broke some connectors so it took me a couple of days to find replacement stuff. I replaced the sender by pulling the bed in the 2003, took me about an hour but i also cleaned and painted the frame rails on the back too.

There are a couple of problems with pulling the bed, you need a friend to help pull it off and a new set of mounting hardware.
If the mounting bolts are original, you will probably break them(unless you live somewhere without rust). The bed is not heavy, but too big to lift alone. I also recommend a 1/2" impact to take out the bed bolts.

When you say new set of mounting hardware you mean just new torx bolts that go into the bed itself? I'd like to have everything I need ready before I start.

Also, I have a camper on top of my bed, so I expect it to be a bit heavier than usual.

EDIT:
Yeah regarding the idle air control valve, I'm going to try cleaning the original one I have with some throttle body cleaner and putting it back on instead of this aftermarket one I got from knecht's. See if that resolves the IAC issue. Check engine just keeps coming on and aside from the 2-3000 rpm on start I'm more concerned about the occasional revving/acceleration it does. Also seems like it has a rough time de-accelerating in terms of RPM when I am braking sometimes.

 

[Roert42]

When you say new set of mounting hardware you mean just new torx bolts that go into the bed itself? I'd like to have everything I need ready before I start.

Also, I have a camper on top of my bed, so I expect it to be a bit heavier than usual.

Yeah.

You can get a kit off amazon/ebay for like $30 that has new bolts and clip nuts. I broke all the bolts undoing mine, then used a cut off wheel to cut the clips, and popped in the new hardware.


I don't know how much the topper weighs, I also took off my tailgate. Me and my brother picked it up, flipped it over, and set it in the driveway upside down.

 

[Roert42]

the occasional revving/acceleration it does. Also seems like it has a rough time de-accelerating in terms of RPM when I am braking sometimes.

Reminds me of my old F-150. The throttle body would occasionaly get stuck open if I held it in the same spot for a while ( like cruising down the highway ). If it did that I would just stomp on the gas all the way and let off real quick, would usually slap closed after that.