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2019 Ranger Ecoboost Oil Change Interval


FWIW I use to run regular Mobil 1 in my duratec and while my samples from blackstone at the time were all good and within typical spec, when I switched to Pennzoil ultra platinum my wear levels in copper and iron decreased noticeably in every sample since.

Not trying to make a case for Pennzoil but in my instance it would seem Pennzoil is superior to Mobil. At least ultra platinum vs Mobil 1.

Which Mobil 1?
 
Which Mobil 1?

I used the regular ole Mobil 1 5w20, not the extended performance, anual protection, high mileage or any of those.

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I'll go back and try to re-download my old reports from blackstone.
 
I prefer Valvoline but Mobil 1 is fine too. Whichever one has the best sale and and filter combo when I go to buy them.
 
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Good to know, thanks!
 
FWIW I use to run regular Mobil 1 in my duratec and while my samples from blackstone at the time were all good and within typical spec, when I switched to Pennzoil ultra platinum my wear levels in copper and iron decreased noticeably in every sample since.

Not trying to make a case for Pennzoil but in my instance it would seem Pennzoil is superior to Mobil. At least ultra platinum vs Mobil 1.
My objection with Pennzoil isn't with the product necessarily, it's with the company. They own Jiffy Lube, the concept of having unskilled and underpaid people service vehicles wouldn't have occurred to anyone if the auto repair industry got even a tiny percentage of the respect it deserves.
I use Motocraft because, in 42 years at the dealer, I never saw a wear related failure in an engine we'd serviced. I use Mobil 1 in my Mustang because during 20+ years of drag racing with an aggressive clutch I had to replace the main bearings every couple of seasons due to thrust face wear. Mobil 1 ended that. I switched my 2011 4.0 sohc to Mobil 1 to see if it would help gas mileage. I'd been averaging 19mpg on the round trip to Pa to visit my daughter and it increased to 20 with Mobil 1 on the same route at the same cruising speed.
 
My objection with Pennzoil isn't with the product necessarily, it's with the company. They own Jiffy Lube, the concept of having unskilled and underpaid people service vehicles wouldn't have occurred to anyone if the auto repair industry got even a tiny percentage of the respect it deserves.
I use Motocraft because, in 42 years at the dealer, I never saw a wear related failure in an engine we'd serviced. I use Mobil 1 in my Mustang because during 20+ years of drag racing with an aggressive clutch I had to replace the main bearings every couple of seasons due to thrust face wear. Mobil 1 ended that. I switched my 2011 4.0 sohc to Mobil 1 to see if it would help gas mileage. I'd been averaging 19mpg on the round trip to Pa to visit my daughter and it increased to 20 with Mobil 1 on the same route at the same cruising speed.

Hmm... seems like with what you've learned you would switch to Mobil 1 for all your vehicles?

That being said I still use Valvoline (dinosaur based) Racing Oil in my (2) non roller cam Hot Rods (both 350 Small Block Chevy's) just because Valvoline Racing Oil has a high zinc content... I don't want to wipe out a cam.

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Hmm... seems like with what you've learned you would switch to Mobil 1 for all your vehicles?

That being said I still use Valvoline (dinosaur based) racing oil in my (2) non roller cam Hot Rods (both 350 Small Block Chevy's) just because they are high in zinc... I don't want to wipe out a cam.

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High zinc oil is well worth doing with any flat tappet cam, especially a SBC since they ate cams from 1955 until they went to roller cams. My 2016 Escape AWD 2.0 EcoBoost gets high 20's for mileage using Mortorcraft and the 351 in my Ranger is a fresh rebuild so I'll stick with Motorcraft during the break in period.
 
High zinc oil is well worth doing with any flat tappet cam, especially a SBC since they ate cams from 1955 until they went to roller cams. My 2016 Escape AWD 2.0 EcoBoost gets high 20's for mileage using Mortorcraft and the 351 in my Ranger is a fresh rebuild so I'll stick with Motorcraft during the break in period.

I don't use Motorcraft in my 2019 Ranger. Everything I've read states using dinosaur based oil increases coking in the valves, which is an even bigger issue with DI motors.

Since this thread is about Ranger 2.3 turbo DI Ecoboost motor oils, I'd be interested in your thoughts on this based on what you have seen as a Ford Tech? Just seems crazy IMO for Ford to recommend their Synthetic Blend in this type of motor.
 
I retired in 17, we'd been selling Ecoboost engines since 2011 and had zero coking issues. The key is changing the oil- more frequently than the light on the dash wants you to- and using quality oil. I still stop in at the dealer once in a while and they haven't mentioned a coking problem. I listed OIlzum as a brand I won't use, we had a jobber salesman who always had us service his car with the Oilzum his store sold. When we pulled the valve covers to replace leaky gaskets at about 40k, it was black and sludgy even though we'd changed it regularly.
 
All oils are 'dinosaur oils' or whatever you want to call them. The difference is in the refining process, and additives.

Synthetic will last longer and tend to not burn up as much because the hydrocarbon chains are all more consistent (closer to the same length, therefore viscosity, and ignition characteristics). Cheap oil has lots of variation in the hydrocarbon chains and the shorter ones are more volatile and burn up faster... hence 'coking' / filth, whatever you want to call it.

If you need zinc, or whatever, then buy the oil that has what you need.
 
I retired in 17, we'd been selling Ecoboost engines since 2011 and had zero coking issues. The key is changing the oil- more frequently than the light on the dash wants you to- and using quality oil. I still stop in at the dealer once in a while and they haven't mentioned a coking problem. I listed OIlzum as a brand I won't use, we had a jobber salesman who always had us service his car with the Oilzum his store sold. When we pulled the valve covers to replace leaky gaskets at about 40k, it was black and sludgy even though we'd changed it regularly.

Good to know... I'm changing the oil in our 2019 about every 4,000 miles. Sound good?
 
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Good to know... I'm changing the oil in our 2019 about every 4,000 miles. Sound good?
Yup, as long as that works out to at least twice a year. People who drive a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't hit operating temp often have low mileage, worn out trade ins because of the oil being diluted with combustion byproducts and moisture. If driven long distances every time it's started a vehicle can go more miles between changes.
 
All oils are 'dinosaur oils' or whatever you want to call them. The difference is in the refining process, and additives.

Synthetic will last longer and tend to not burn up as much because the hydrocarbon chains are all more consistent (closer to the same length, therefore viscosity, and ignition characteristics).

Somewhat true and somewhat not. Many of the cheap synthetics are indeed super refined petroleum oil. There are quite a few on the market that are made from other things like natural gas. Amsoil is an example but I'm sure there are others. One of the big brands has had advertisements recently about them making their oil from natural gas. I might have been Valvoline but I'm not 100% on that, so I won't say it is them. As far as the rest, I'm not sure where the line is for synthetics made from petroleum and synthetics made from something else.

More than likely, the synthetic oils I buy as a package with a filter, are in the super refined petroleum oil department.
 
Pennzoil ultra platinum is one of the ones made from natural gas. I started using it because of that "gimmick", but it seems to work. :dunno:
 

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