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HOW DO YOU CONVERT A RANGER TO A MOBILE WORKSHOP?


Access is key, make sure you can get to stuff.

Also keep in mind balance, you don't want to put your big toolbox clear to the back so it is easy to get to if it makes the truck too tail-heavy.

It is a balancing act. All the mobile service trucks here at work (agriculture) are 3/4 ton + so they are more forgiving. The box that would make a Ranger squirm they don't care about.

Here once in a great while a utility bed for a Ranger comes up for sale, IMO that would be ideal and my first pick but in Lagos they could be pretty few and far between. Then you can balance the truck how you want to, everything is easy to get at and each compartment is lockable.

2009-ford-ranger-x-cab-utility-service-body-4-0-v-6-auto-1-owner-112-960-miles-182372040334-0.jpg
 
Thanks for your replies. I'd also be sometimes working close to my truck, for instance, engine rebuilds in some cases, while in some rebuilds, I'd have to transport the engine offsite, to a more comfortable, and secure location. My point is just to work more onsite, than my current shop, because of space constraints.
The perfect storage and transport solution is a journey. No matter what you go with, it will probably be re arranged, modified, and/or upgraded as work dictates.

Ok sounds like you need perhaps a hybrid of truck affixed and mobile storages. Maybe an attached truck box and removeable storage box. Also if you have a hitch you can get a cargo carrier for things like floor jacks and engine stands etc, or if you need to tow an engine hoist, or engine. One of those bed hoists would be good for if you plan to transport engines, transmissions, axles etc... in the truck bed.

Thats another thing, leaving room for things like engines, or if you need to take old parts or oils with you for proper disposal. Again a hitch mounted bed extender or small trailer may help.

Sometimes I tow a small and low trailer even if the bed is empty just because its easier to load/offload heavy objects, and tow capacity is much higher than bed payload.


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Access is key, make sure you can get to stuff.

Also keep in mind balance, you don't want to put your big toolbox clear to the back so it is easy to get to if it makes the truck too tail-heavy.

It is a balancing act. All the mobile service trucks here at work (agriculture) are 3/4 ton + so they are more forgiving. The box that would make a Ranger squirm they don't care about.

Here once in a great while a utility bed for a Ranger comes up for sale, IMO that would be ideal and my first pick but in Lagos they could be pretty few and far between. Then you can balance the truck how you want to, everything is easy to get at and each compartment is lockable.

2009-ford-ranger-x-cab-utility-service-body-4-0-v-6-auto-1-owner-112-960-miles-182372040334-0.jpg
Men, I love this truck. Wished I could fabricate something like this.
 
What about a box trailer? they arent much (at least here) , lockable, can even work on small stuff inside, have a bench, generator, air compressor. with a V6 & the right gearing a ranger can tow it. (heck my ranger is a 2.3 lima with 4.10’s)
View attachment 49231

Wao! This is cool. First off! Is this a ranger? If it is, this is the exact same way I intend to modify the rear of my ranger, by having that small camper covering the bed. I have bought the covering separately from a junk yard already.

The one I'd prefer now, is the box trailer setup.
But using this setup, would depends on engine HP, and torque, isn't it, and probably the contents I may have in the trailer box.

How many pounds worth of stuffs do you think this trailer can carry, and would a 3.0l engine and automatic transmission cope with pulling it around?

Maybe getting a 302 in my ranger, or a 1uz ls400 V8 would help with hauling about?
 
Your truck is probably rated to tow around 3,000 pounds. But the bumper is only rated for 2,000, most likely. So a receiver hitch would be a good idea if you are really going to load the trailer heavy.

Lower rear axle gears are probably the simplest and cheapest way to help. Don't know if that is an option for you, or how fast you need to drive. If you don't need to drive fast on the road, then 4.10 gears are probably the lowest you could get and run. Assuming a Ford 7.5" rear end. See what it has now - probably 3.27 or 3.55 or something like that for the final drive ratio.

Also the rear springs may not be sufficient to load the truck heavy. Not sure what you have available, but a set from an Explorer would add some capacity.

We have plenty of junkyards to go 'shopping' for parts over here, you may not have that luxury.
 
yes, its a ranger. A ‘94 longbed 2wd, with styling cues from the ‘70’s. My box trailer is a 6x10 V-nose front, 6’ tall roof (inside floor to roof) trailer empty weighs just over 1,000# and gvwr is 3,000# meaning in a nutshell that you can carry 2,000#. One of my older trucks pulled it very well, a ‘93 4.0 with 3.73’s, the biggest issue with a trailer is wind drag, its like pulling a parachute behind you. My ‘93 (4x4 supercab 5speed manual 3.73 gears) would get 18 mpg not towing or hauling but hook up the trailer and even empty would drop to 12mpg. Also the true biggest concern with towing with a ranger chassis is stopping. the 93 did ok, my current ranger is marginal. Really a bigger truck (1/2 or 3/4 ton) would be better. (you can get trailer brakes though for most trailers) I had a idea for a mobile mechanic business for quite some time. Getting a customer base established seems to be the biggest hurdle. A 3.0 could tow no doubt, my 2.3 “pinto” 4-cyl does, but I also tossed the 3.45 axle it came with for a 4.10 axle.
 
Looks like I was off a bit on my estimates. Here's a picture of the owner's manual for my 97. It's the Mazda version of the Ranger, same thing, and I'm sure the numbers are the same. These are the maximum loads - subtract the empty weight of your vehicle to figure out how much cargo/trailer weight you can tow, per this recommendation. I'd guess around 3,000 pounds empty for your truck, depends if it is a standard cab or extended cab, and 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive. So, maybe around 4,000 - 4,500 pounds total with the trailer and cargo (middle column) depending on the rear end gears. But I would for sure want a receiver hitch to go that heavy. The bumpers aren't rated to tow much.

Note that there may be several possible gear ratios. Depends what the truck was ordered with. As an example, mine was ordered with a towing package, so I have 3.55 rear end gears and maximum capacity. There should be a tag on the rear differential with the ratio. Might also be possible to decode it from the door tag, not sure.

Anyway if all you do is drive around at low speeds then you may get away with a little more load weight. Depends how strict law enforcement is, and whether anyone cares at all what you drive. I've seen pictures of the traffic in different countries in Africa and it appears to be complete chaos at times...... although south Texas isn't much better along the border with Mexico.
 

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I do use frame-mounted hitches rather than the bumper. The ‘93 had a receiver hitch and the ‘94 has a home-built frame hitch with a receiver tube. I also have coil helpers on the rear axle housing for a little extra suspension. I plan on upgrading my front brakes soon to ‘97 dual-piston calipers.
 
Those aluminum trailers are very light, it should pull no problem, even fairly loaded. The problem is driving with one, or more so, parking with it. But there many benefits. You will need a frame mounted hitch for sure, which is nice to have anyways. I wouldn't worry about numbers so much, just get a nice light single axle trailer, preferably aluminum, and load it logically, and test drive. If you can make it up a hill, and be able to stop at the bottom, you will be fine. Maybe rent or borrow a trailer and see how she pulls. I have stayed under the tow rating on my F150, but near it I did not like the way it stopped (it didnt). So I try to keep it well under capacity when towing. In contrast the bed payload capacity seems on the conservative side, truck hauls full capacity no problem. So now I take load ratings as a guide, and apply logic, sense, experience, and feel when driving to those numbers as well.
 
And of course you don’t always have to get as big of a trailer as I have, my original plan was a smaller trailer but what I bought was on the lot , ready to roll and was last years model, though still a brand new, never used trailer. What I was going to order would of been around $4,000. What I ended up with was a larger trailer for $2,600 - out the drive, including tax. The only thing I didnt get that I would have with my special ordered one was trailer brakes. Was told “not required in ohio” so they didnt order stock ones in with brakes. I could put a kit on, just never have.
 
Your truck is probably rated to tow around 3,000 pounds. But the bumper is only rated for 2,000, most likely. So a receiver hitch would be a good idea if you are really going to load the trailer heavy.

Lower rear axle gears are probably the simplest and cheapest way to help. Don't know if that is an option for you, or how fast you need to drive. If you don't need to drive fast on the road, then 4.10 gears are probably the lowest you could get and run. Assuming a Ford 7.5" rear end. See what it has now - probably 3.27 or 3.55 or something like that for the final drive ratio.

Also the rear springs may not be sufficient to load the truck heavy. Not sure what you have available, but a set from an Explorer would add some capacity.

We have plenty of junkyards to go 'shopping' for parts over here, you may not have that luxury.
Thanks so much. I intend to swap an explorer rear axle in their with time.
 
Looks like I was off a bit on my estimates. Here's a picture of the owner's manual for my 97. It's the Mazda version of the Ranger, same thing, and I'm sure the numbers are the same. These are the maximum loads - subtract the empty weight of your vehicle to figure out how much cargo/trailer weight you can tow, per this recommendation. I'd guess around 3,000 pounds empty for your truck, depends if it is a standard cab or extended cab, and 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive. So, maybe around 4,000 - 4,500 pounds total with the trailer and cargo (middle column) depending on the rear end gears. But I would for sure want a receiver hitch to go that heavy. The bumpers aren't rated to tow much.

Note that there may be several possible gear ratios. Depends what the truck was ordered with. As an example, mine was ordered with a towing package, so I have 3.55 rear end gears and maximum capacity. There should be a tag on the rear differential with the ratio. Might also be possible to decode it from the door tag, not sure.

Anyway if all you do is drive around at low speeds then you may get away with a little more load weight. Depends how strict law enforcement is, and whether anyone cares at all what you drive. I've seen pictures of the traffic in different countries in Africa and it appears to be complete chaos at times...... although south Texas isn't much better along the border with Mexico.
Law enforcements do worry about what you drive really. Getting it right over here is only when you make it legal, and register the truck blabla.
Traffic is terrible over here, during early morning rush hours, and closing of works in the evenings. You get stuck in traffic for hours.
When people say, EXTENDED CAB, REGULAR CAB, etc, what exactly to you guys means?
Does the example of my truck in my thread, show its a regular cab, or regular extended? How do I classify my truck?
My truck has two doors, a 4x2, and am automatic transmission.
Thanks
 

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