2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[RobbieD]

If you're going to install a CB radio, then you probably should put the capacitor back on.

 

[MadMax_636]

Some of the later model big trucks did have a small flat duct that bolted on when you did not have A/C. I have never see a ranger without A/C but if they did it that way, and you could find that flat duct and it would bolt on, then you would be good. All the air for the ventilation runs through that box from the fan, so if you take that box off none of it will work, unless they did make that flat duct that would channel the air across.

I took my air pump completely off. No problems doing that except the pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold on the pass side of the engine. It has fittings on each exhaust manifold, and they look very difficult to remove, and access to them is terrible. So I cut the large hose off going to that pipe in the rear, but left some hose there and the hose clamp. I then found something big enough to stick down in the hose and clamp it in to plug it off. It hasn't burned out yet. If it leaks it's a exhaust leak.

The air pump isn't hooked to anything. Its just puffing air out of itself. I think one of the past owners tried to do away with most of the air pump stuff but screwed up the wiring. The air pump just puffs air into nowheresville. I should be good then?

 

[MadMax_636]

If you're going to install a CB radio, then you probably should put the capacitor back on.

Okay! Ill clean its connector up. I just pulled it off since it was packed with filth. I'll clean the contacts up.

I've been cleaning stuff mainly. Haven't really don't much with wiring besides repairing messed up stuff. Since there was a lot of dirty and broken wiring.

 

[franklin2]

The air pump isn't hooked to anything. Its just puffing air out of itself. I think one of the past owners tried to do away with most of the air pump stuff but screwed up the wiring. The air pump just puffs air into nowheresville. I should be good then?

As long as the exhaust port is plugged, which it must have already been taken care of. I don't know how mechanics changed the sparkplugs on these things with all this junk in the way.

 

[MadMax_636]

As long as the exhaust port is plugged, which it must have already been taken care of. I don't know how mechanics changed the sparkplugs on these things with all this junk in the way.

Yeah, I hated changing plugs. That's why I removed most of the junk

 

[MadMax_636]

@franklin2 Im pretty sure Im done with the wiring. Im posting photos in hopes you can check them for me and tell me if I missed something or I need to change/redo something.

 

[franklin2]

Hard to make out some of it. That red/orange wire going to the module is your hot wire? And there is a splice inside the plastic loom where it feeds the coil also? That looks correct. The other end in the loom is your hot wire, and it runs under the fins on the heat sink. I can't see where the other end of the hot wire is hooked up.

Do you have a ground wire coming from the distributor? I see a black wire on the module/heatsink and a black wire running to the mounting screw on the regulator.

 

[MadMax_636]

Hard to make out some of it. That red/orange wire going to the module is your hot wire? And there is a splice inside the plastic loom where it feeds the coil also? That looks correct. The other end in the loom is your hot wire, and it runs under the fins on the heat sink. I can't see where the other end of the hot wire is hooked up.

Do you have a ground wire coming from the distributor? I see a black wire on the module/heatsink and a black wire running to the mounting screw on the regulator.

Yeah, Red and gray are hot. The wire inside the look that runs under the heatsink is red, it is spliced into the gray, those 2 wires are also spliced onto the red wire that goes to the module. I tried to use Red wire for all of the HOT wires.

Green is the negative wire from the coil that is hooked to the module.

Inside the loom to the distributor its got a red and blue wire. There is also a ground wire.

Forgot to mention. The ground wires are black. Ive got a ground wire coming off the coil, dist, module, the AM cap @RobbieD said to plug it in since Im planning to use a CB Radio. It has a hole on its mount so I put it through the screw on the coil ground. It all goes to the fender mount.


With my knowledge with computers haha. Ive learned a thing or two with cable management and color-coding. Since you really cant get anything done when you have to work with wires inside a server if nothing is organized and easily understood.

 

[franklin2]

You forgot to mention where your hot wire ties into the Ford wiring. I am assuming it runs under the heat sink fins and ties in over there. It should be going to both the brown pink and the white with blue dot wires.

 

[MadMax_636]

You forgot to mention where your hot wire ties into the Ford wiring. I am assuming it runs under the heat sink fins and ties in over there. It should be going to both the brown pink and the white with blue dot wires.

I used my drawing tablet to show where it all goes.

 

[franklin2]

As long as you have 12v with the key on during crank and run on the red wire, that is all that matters. Everything else looks correct.

 

[RobbieD]

The capacitor looks correct, too. I can't quite follow the black ground wire you added; I can see you're grounding the ignition module, but does the same ground wire also include the coil (and thus the cap), all grounded through the black wire that's grounded at the voltage regulator?

 

[MadMax_636]

As long as you have 12v with the key on during crank and run on the red wire, that is all that matters.

Cool. My harness was hillabilly repaired at some point. So some of my wires were mismatched already. So this connector was patched in at some point. The round one....

This is what is looked like before.

Going off the diagram @RobbieD had posted of the gray plug. I figured out that was the 12v.

 

[MadMax_636]

The capacitor looks correct, too. I can't quite follow the black ground wire you added; I can see you're grounding the ignition module, but does the same ground wire also include the coil (and thus the cap), all grounded through the black wire that's grounded at the voltage regulator?

Thats correct.

That wasn't the capacitors resting place. It was screwed on to the same ground point as it was mounted on the coil.

 

[RobbieD]

As long as all of your black wires are tied together, and grounding all of those components, you're good.