97 2.3 engine ground locations

[3ncrypt3d]

Hey, I was wondering if anyone knew all the stock grounding locations to the engine. Recently swapped the engine(2.3 to a low mileage 2.3), and I can’t seem to get it to start. I’m thinking it’s a grounding issue. If I connect the battery, I get power to the cab. The key buzzer goes off, and the dash will light up. As soon as I try to crank it, it sounds like it tried to engage the starter, but then immediately stops. Then I have to disconnect and reconnect the battery. If anyone could just give me some general pointers, that would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: not sure if it matters, but I have a manual trans too.

 

[RonD]

Larger Negative battery cable should run to the engine, often one of the starter motor bolts, or to a bolt on the block or motor mount(engine side)
This larger cable is for starter motor AND alternator ground, those are the big AMP devices, stater 60-75amp, alternator 80-120amp

Smaller negative cables on battery should run to Rad Support(head lights) and inner fender for relay grounds.

There should be a Ground strap/wire from the back of the head to the Firewall, this is the main ground for cab electrics
This is often left off after engine work, put it back on or add one

Then there will be a Frame ground strap/wire, often on motor mount, but from engine to Frame(tail lights and fuel pump)

Can't have too many Grounds

Remember, all metal parts on the vehicle were painted BEFORE they were assembled at the factory, and many have rubber washers on bolts that connect them together, so never "assume" a good ground because it is a metal part of a vehicle


As far as starter motor not turning and getting a "click, click, click", that does mean starter is getting less than 60amps, lights and such need maybe 5-10amps at most, so no comparison with the 60-75 amps needed by starter motors.
Lights can work fine, doesn't mean much

So you are on the right track
Battery Positive cable needs to pass 60+ amps to starter motor, and Battery's negative cable needs to carry that same 60+ amps to complete the Circuit.
Check both for good clean bare metal connections

 

[adsm08]

Remember, all metal parts on the vehicle were painted BEFORE they were assembled at the factory, and many have rubber washers on bolts that connect them together, so never "assume" a good ground because it is a metal part of a vehicle

Oh how true this is. I have lost count of how many TSBs I've done that were basically taking the paint off under a ground cable, putting the cable back on, and then spray-bombing the area you just cleaned with the ground strap already bolted down.