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'85 Ranger Restomod


Like Moog being made in China now.

That is different though, they are not equal to what Moog made in the US. And they don't have someone elses name on them.
 
Spindle bearing actually says USA on it, never seen a Koyo marked as such before...

Anyway I have made some real progress on it.

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Mud slinger is on the axleshaft.

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Shined up the spindle where it mounts to the knuckle, packed the bearing and installed it in the spindle.

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Probably stupid to paint the alignment bushing but what the heck. :icon_twisted:
 
More this afternoon, it pretty much all about the Ranger today... it was a great day. :yahoo:

Dove into the other side since I am held up waiting for paint to dry for the PS.

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Wheel bearing grease doesn't look encouraging.

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Who says D35's don't have drain plugs.:icon_idea: Oil was nice and clean, I was impressed.

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This truck must have been fun to drive, one side of the u-joint is frozen and the knuckle is stuck in this position because the u-joint wouldn't flex. I played with it and eventually got the loose side so the knuckle will move so I could get the stupid wheel speed sensor block out of the way. I am thrilled to be rid of those stupid ABS sensors, they are a PITA.

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Ew

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That stupid odd sized screw. Beat a socket on and pray, so far I am 2 for 2 and hope to end my run there.

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Pulled the diff, looks nice inside:

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Nice and clean.

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The center joint is the only one worth a crap. All the rollers were still there and still had grease.

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The center joint replaced and the yokes cleaned up. I got one side of it primed too.

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Work in progress here:

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More detail of the nastyness.

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Blew a cap apart.

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Gonna have to cut the cross I think, the other two caps are still fused to the cross. I was fighting a headache by now and left it for later.

Starting to take the knuckle off, I think I hurt the lower ball joint. Suppose this is one of those rebuildable ones? :icon_confused:

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And the alignment bushing kinda crumbled on me. I might just get new aftermarket ones and be done with it. The other side looked different, I also notice it had aftermarket balljoints and the DS probably were original. I wonder if they had to change the bushing to get it to align after changing the balljoints.

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That d35 was a complete mess.
 
That d35 was a complete mess.

It has fought all the way, I think I about got it whooped though.

So far everything I intended to do from the start it has actually needed.
 
What would have sucked is if the diff was blown to hell
 
What would have sucked is if the diff was blown to hell

Pretty much.

Would still have dual piston calipers and knuckles with spare shafts for a different axle though so it wouldn't have been a total loss by any means. Or just find a different center section.
 
That cross did actually have grease in it, it burned and stunk quite nicely when it was torched out. The last shaft is done and primed:

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New spindle bearing is and spindle is cleaned up:

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Painting is progressing nicely.

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My shafts will go back in ugly.
 
I want it to look as nice as I can, so I take a little extra time to clean then up and throw some paint on them.
 
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Well today is the old girl's 31st birthday. :birthday:

Anyway I have been picking at it making a little more progress on it.

Stupid ABS sensors are out of my life finally :yahoo:

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The lower balljoint even had a hole worn in it.

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I now have one of those yuppie grinder/mixer bowl thingies. It even has an iron infusing option. :icon_thumby:

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I got the PS pivot bushing out.

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I was impressed that the hole for the bushing wasn't solid.

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New bushing shell is in.

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This stupid washer makes no sense. I have noticed people leave them out.

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And the instructions pretty much just plain suck. :temper:

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I'm glad I have a solid axle, less shit to go wrong.
 
I'm glad I have a solid axle, less shit to go wrong.

You don't have balljoints? Two bushings that connect the axle to the truck? (say, via a panhard bar?) Three front u-joints?... oh wait you got me there. But after seeing the care this axle has received over the last 20 years and the "extra" one still being good... that is kinda moot IMO.

Oh yes, much simpler then. :rolleyes:

Except mine just drops in and is stronger stock for stock. :icon_rofl:
 
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Actually they all have the same weak point, the axle ujoints. The d30, d35 and d44 share the same size. Also d30 parts are much easier and cheaper to find and most guys that offroad have jeeps and easier to get a part from.

But when lifting a ttb you still end up with a giant shovel up front.

I went SAS because the axle landed in my possession for free and I wasn't going to put money into my d28 let alone another ttb.

I could have spent way less on my SAS if I had built my long arms but I want going to take a chance and that's why I decided to buy them. And with long arms my SAS was 90% bolt in, just had to take a few measurements drill the mount holes, bolt to my frame then make a track bar mount and I was good.

Also with a SAS and having a 5.0 I was able to cut the ttb mount off that was in my way of my drain plug on my oil pan.

It's to each his own. I like how you are keeping your truck with the factory look.
 
I thought you had CV joints in yours?

When I say bolt in I mean disconnect driveshaft, shocks, steering and two bolts and two nuts. Installation is reverse of disassembly.

Best selling SUV and best selling compact truck for parts sources... ain't worried about it. Jeep stuff fits for lockers (using stuff for Jeep rear D35's geared 3.55 or deeper) if I am so inclined.
 

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