gettin final engine & trans position logistics down...

[300I6Ranger4x4]

So what would you guys consider the best method for drivetrain installation and placement?

The truck is a 91 ext cab. its gettin a carb'd 351w/zf5/np205. Im using the 5L conv. engine mounts.

I was thinking of using the one piece driveshaft bolted up to the motor/trans/t-case, and then where ever that places the motor and trans i'll use that as final location?

Or should i just bolt the zf5 in the stock location of the trans Xmember and use that as final location for finding the motor mounts location?

Was hoping to use the stock one piece drive shaft without getting it cut...

cheers

 

[prymetime1]

Hey bud, I'll chime in here since I recently took a stab at swapping a 347 in my 94. I'm not as familiar with the 4x4s but I think ur engine mounts will dictate most of where ish is going to sit.
What mounts are u planning to use?
Since there's a few options out there, maybe other 4x4 guys can help some mo.
I know the transdapt ones will need some modifying but it wasn't bad, just slotting the mount's holes for addition room n cross member holes.
Once I got my engine placed, I went for trans placement and luckily after said n done my drive shaft still woked.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

as stated in the first post, i have the 5L mustang convertible mounts

 

[Elutheros]

I used the flat plate mounts from SVT here on the forum. Still had to do a little mod to the driver side, but the engine / trans M5ODR2 ended up using the stock transmission mount location and a one piece drive shaft from a 2000 Ranger. Cost me $75 to have the front shaft shortened for the NP205 TC and another $50 for a front yoke to mate the two. I don't know if the convertible mounts will allow as much movement as the slotted plates. You may just have to make some adjustments/slot holes.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

i think i'll try bolting the zf to the stock location and see if the drive shaft bolts up, and if it does then thats where the motor mounts will get their respective holes drilled

 

[bobbywalter]

in a ttb chassis...i remove the core/inner fenders


and place the engine as low and far back as possible.


with a 4x4 windsor, it will require oil pan modifications and blower box modifications even with a 3 in body lift.

unfortunately it almost always ends up requiring both driveshafts to be custom length as well and the drivers side frame rail rolled/modified...

so that is a big list of negatives.

but cooling will be a breeze. with the windsor style fords i always tore up the water pumps when pounding on them, and i like to be able to easily work on the cooling system with lots of room.

just yesterday i actually stopped in to look at a fellow members swap, and it suffers from cooling capacity limitations due to taking the easy route for engine placement. this is far and away the most common mistake i see when re-powering any vehicle...

so its up to your on what issues or middlegound you want to make/deal with.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

this is the first i've heard of anyone having to do oil pan mods.. and whats cause for modding the drivers side frame rail? first i've heard of that aswell..

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

M5ODR2 ended up using the stock transmission mount location and a one piece drive shaft from a 2000 Ranger.

If the M5ODR2 and zf5 are the same length, then i shouldn't need to cut the rear d-shaft because we both have np205's. Anyone know the lengths of the two trans? or if they're the same?

 

[bobbywalter]

this is the first i've heard of anyone having to do oil pan mods.. and whats cause for modding the drivers side frame rail? first i've heard of that aswell..

originally when we considered body lifts taboo(late 80's early 90's) it was necessary to go low and back and mod the pan to get one in there.

and modding the oil pan is necessary when your ttb 4x4 is still retaining its oem location pivot bracket. many of the lift options allow for an installation that wont require pan mods with the fox type pan... stock to 2 in over coil height 4x4's were normal when i started doing this.


by the mid 90's things were developing pretty well and a 1-3 inch bodylift was realized as an asset. and most 4x4 v8 swaps were lifted already...

mid/long tube headers with flat gaskets were the norm originally in the early days as well or stock manifolds which all required frame rail mods on the upper side. shorty headers came along and aided things greatly to say the least...

rolling the rails for clearance increases strength over removing material....especially right angle cuts.

its all in where a guy wants to end up..

theres so many ways to get to it driving down the road....combinations are nearly endless.

these things are jut a blank canvas to me.


the evolution of my perspectives are based on a wide array of installs i have worked on the last 25 plus years.....

i have put many types of engines into these platforms...and my preferences are tied to that experience.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

i got the block hugger rear exit manifolds from the 60's/ early 70's, so i shouldn't need to touch the frame rail

do you or anyone remember how much space is there in play usually between the engine cross-member and a rear sump or dual sump pan?

how many of you guys go rear sump and how many have gone dual?
Pro's and Con's?

 

[farmer]

When I did the 351 swap, I used convertible mustang mounts, and slotted the crossmember perpendicular to the motor with a torch. Not a fan of it. I have a 3" body and SAS also though, height is less of an issue. Dual sump oil pan. Motor sits to the drivers side and had to be tweaked cock-eyed to get the 208 in. Not perfect but it works.

Location was determined by the engine mounts. I'm into the heater box big time and I had to cut the core support to fit a 92 Explorer radiator.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

The truck is a 91 ext cab. its gettin a carb'd 351w/zf5/np205. Im using the 5L conv. engine mounts.

I've decided to go with a c6 trans and sell my zf5. An automatic will just suit the style of off roading I'll be doing most of the time as well as be more of an enjoyable experience. I love standards but i don't want to play that clutch/brake/gas/shift game all the time, especially at technical angles and inclines/declines.

 

[300I6Ranger4x4]

When I did the 351 swap, I used convertible mustang mounts, and slotted the crossmember perpendicular to the motor with a torch. Not a fan of it. I have a 3" body and SAS also though, height is less of an issue. Dual sump oil pan. Motor sits to the drivers side and had to be tweaked cock-eyed to get the 208 in. Not perfect but it works.

Location was determined by the engine mounts. I'm into the heater box big time and I had to cut the core support to fit a 92 Explorer radiator.

Ya i think i remember reading one of your posts where you mentioned you got a little too torch happy lol. I've also read the mustang mounts dont make the engine sit level. i'm sure shims or a spacer could resolve this.

I got a two inch body lift and a dual sump pan that i'm gonna use.

 

[farmer]

I've also read the mustang mounts dont make the engine sit level. i'm sure shims or a spacer could resolve this.
QUOTE]

That would make sense. Would explain why its shifted so far to the drivers side to sit level.

 

[hoosier1104]

Just curious but have you considered the mounts out of a AWD Expo? I know they fit for a fact and the engine sits level. Click on the Hollow Point link in my signature for proof.