starting my 99 swap

[Justin d]

So I started prepping the 5.0 today. I put on my motor mounts painted a few things. Next Saturday the real work will start I'm planning on pulling my 3.0 and getting the 5.0 in to place and hooked up. But something that I can't seem to find any information on is repining the plug on the battery harness if anyone has any information or know when to find it please let me know. I will take some pics and figure out how to upload soon

 

[Justin d]

I have looked through the tech articles

 

[Justin d]

This is the one that I am putting my 5.0 in

 

[Justin d]

It's my dd but while it's down I will be driving a 95 ranger I picked up cheap

 

[Justin d]

I have since cleaned it up a little this was when I first brought it home from work

 

[Justin d]

I pulled out the 3.0 and tranny today went pretty well. Next on the to do list for tomorrow is to pull mount off the frame and remove the spacer. While I have the spring out I am debating whether or not to cut the springs. I want to drop it but not sure if this is the way to go. I don't want to lose ride quality. If anyone has run cut springs your input would be appreciated

 

[Jbrown1238]

I pulled out the 3.0 and tranny today went pretty well. Next on the to do list for tomorrow is to pull mount off the frame and remove the spacer. While I have the spring out I am debating whether or not to cut the springs. I want to drop it but not sure if this is the way to go. I don't want to lose ride quality. If anyone has run cut springs your input would be appreciated

If you do cut be careful and only cut about 1/4 to 1/3 of a coil off the top. It doesn't take much and it will continue to settle another 1/4 inch over the first few months. If you take a 1/4 to 1/3 of the first coil you should still have about 1/2 inch of travel depending on what you do with the rubber stops. I removed mine from the front lower control arms and replaced them with the ones that came in the DJM flip kit I purchased for the rear. When using the lower profile DJM "pancake" style bump stops I have 1/2 inch of travel and still have pretty good ride quality. This set up was good for about 1 3/4 to 2 inches of drop.

 

[Justin d]

If you do cut be careful and only cut about 1/4 to 1/3 of a coil off the top. It doesn't take much and it will continue to settle another 1/4 inch over the first few months. If you take a 1/4 to 1/3 of the first coil you should still have about 1/2 inch of travel depending on what you do with the rubber stops. I removed mine from the front lower control arms and replaced them with the ones that came in the DJM flip kit I purchased for the rear. When using the lower profile DJM "pancake" style bump stops I have 1/2 inch of travel and still have pretty good ride quality. This set up was good for about 1 3/4 to 2 inches of drop.

If I remember correctly you cut your spring at 5 o'clock on the spring? Couldn't I just cut the stops down

 

[Jbrown1238]

If I remember correctly you cut your spring at 5 o'clock on the spring? Couldn't I just cut the stops down

I think five o'clock sounds about right. Yes, I did that on my other Ranger (98) with pretty much the same results. I cut about a half inch off the OEM stops.

 

[Justin d]

I think five o'clock sounds about right. Yes, I did that on my other Ranger (98) with pretty much the same results. I cut about a half inch off the OEM stops.

What shocks did you run or did you just run factory?

 

[Jbrown1238]

What shocks did you run or did you just run factory?

I run OEM style replacements from Advane Auto Parts. With this set up you can still get really close to factory specs on alignment. My 98 Ranger does not have the aftermarket adjustments for the upper control arms like I had added to the 99 Ranger. It was still able to get a pretty good alignment and does not cut tires very hard if at all. I ran the 98 Ranger 330,000 miles with that set up. The 99 Ranger has the upper aftermarket adjustments installed and was able to be brought into perfect alignment, 0.00 on both sides with caster, camber, and toe in. Taking more coil then 1/4 to 1/3 is going to cost you in ride quality and tire wear.

 

[Justin d]

Ok thanks for the info I'm going to go ahead and cut them while I have it out

 

[Justin d]

Got the mount done and cut the spring on that side still need to cut the other side then I will set the 5.0 into place.

 

[Justin d]

So I was just reading that I may not have all the pats components that I need. I have keys,ignition,computer,and pats box from behind the passenger side airbag all from the same vehicle. Is there something else that I need your input would be great thanks

 

[win]

Think the only component you omitted is the PATS transceiver that goes around the key cylinder. Your original Ranger one should work perfectly.