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Need help hard to start


Also I never relieved any pressure when I changed the filter. Hardly any gas came out at all. Was I supposed to relieve it? Could that be the issue
 
Ok where can a I get a gauge to test it. Kind of sounding like it's out of my league a bit. I was about to either drop the tank or pull the bed off. I have a new pump already.

You can't do a pressure test but you can replace the pump? Really? Reread my posts, all needed info is there!

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Also where do I relieve the pressure, sorry for so many questions.
 
Yes, it reads like the Check Valve in the Fuel Pump is bad, the fuel system should have at least 45-50psi of pressure even after sitting for a week or two.
So no pressure when you removed the fuel filter would be a bad thing.

Check valve is part of the pump not a separate part, so whole assembly needs to be changed.

When you cycle the key on and off, you need to count to 3 before turning it off, that allows the fuel pump to run for that 2 seconds each time.
 
I'm wondering if the fuel pump is going or there is a pressure leak causing the prime to be lost.

I suppose a pressure test koer would answer that question though.
 
I'm wondering if the fuel pump is going or there is a pressure leak causing the prime to be lost.

I suppose a pressure test koer would answer that question though.

I think he is skipping the test. The tests would tell if you could get away with just a pump but the whole unit is always a safer bet on the 1998+.I am not sure if he is reading my posts. He keeps asking questions I answered already! [emoji1] unless he owns a lift I hope he pulls the bed. I have a nice write-up about it but I don't think he would read it so why bother posting it! [emoji1]

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Ok let's see if this helps. Got a gauge and cycled key with no pressure on gauge it read 10psi. Started truck and it read between 60 to 70 psi. As soon as truck was off it dropped to 0 psi
 
Ok let's see if this helps. Got a gauge and cycled key with no pressure on gauge it read 10psi. Started truck and it read between 60 to 70 psi. As soon as truck was off it dropped to 0 psi

I don't fully understand the koeo test, but the check valve sounds fubared. Some gas(Shell) was eating up the units for a few years. Too much sulfur or something.

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Ok what about the regulator next to the Schrader valve think that has anything to do with it. Just hit me when I saw it.
 
The thing on the rail is a damper. That is not an issue.

The koeo test is: As Ron said cycle the key on for 3 seconds, what does the gauge say? Turn key off and then on for 3 seconds, keep doing that 5 or 6 times until the gauge will not go up anymore. If the gauge never goes up much then the check valve is fubared.

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Ok step by step did what you said. Pressure gauge never rose past 0
 
Ok step by step did what you said. Pressure gauge never rose past 0

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and* a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required.* 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the***** boltdepot.com* for less than $3 each. the 2 closest to the cab are* 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the strongest grade they had * 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the* rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman* 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc.* I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger.* I had a dewault grinder and bought* 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just* slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach* the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.

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