'85 Ranger Restomod

[dangerranger83]

I have read to hook it to an 8volt source and my alternator may have just that on it. That's what is recommended to do for the old 2.8s that have been converted to duraspark.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Since we are running similar engine setups, what size jets u got in it? I've read that changing out jets and metering rods are easy to do and you don't have to take the carb off or it apart. Also what wire do you have hooked to the choke, just incase i do go with electric choke, may opt for the manual choke. Plus what fu pressure do you have going to the carb, my current one only likes 4.5 psi, anymore and it shots fuel out the top. Just tired of whipping and dead horse.

Choke is 12V fused and hot with the key, the same wire that the 2.8 choke ran off of for years. The few seconds the key is on before the engine starts hasn't mattered yet.

For fuel pressure the book says 6psi max, 5.5psi if you can adjust it (ideal). I have never put a gauge on mine.

Edelbrock has a bunch of vids on youtube about install, tuning and troubleshooting you may want to check out.

 

[dangerranger83]

I can adjust mine from 3-6 psi and in half increments too.

I will look up the wire that was used for the 2.8 choke and also look up the vids too.

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[dangerranger83]

Did you have to order a throttle linkage adaptor for the gas pedal to be able to hook to the carb or did the carb come with it?

I looked up your carb from the link in your swap thread, and it says the linkage is universal but that doesn't tell much.

Here's what I'm talking about

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1483

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Did you have to order a throttle linkage adaptor for the gas pedal to be able to hook to the carb or did the carb come with it?

I looked up your carb from the link in your swap thread, and it says the linkage is universal but that doesn't tell much.

Here's what I'm talking about

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1483

That is just for the kickdown on an automatic.

I got suckered into some stupid "universal" bracket for the throttle cable, it was a flaming POS. I hogged it out with a die grinder and bolted it to another plate to work and it did work pretty good. I ended up finding a stock bracket off of a 302 Mustang II that looked much nicer (it was also cheaper and didn't require any modification to fit) Pretty much any 302 with a carb will have the bracket you need.

I have no idea what the point of this thing is, it came with no instructions. The holes didn't match anything on the intake.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1490/overview/

I made this out of it:

And replaced it with this (best pic I have of it)

And on a different note I used the Ranger with its emtpy 7' bed to haul two loads of stuff out to the house, it did great

 

[dangerranger83]

My current bracket should hold the cable fine, it's the ball stud that bolts to the carb is what I'm worried about, just bolt one to the current linkage on the carb and I'm set is what im assuming, just take the one off my Holley that i put on it.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

My new carb came with a ball stud, I had to move it to the kickdown bracket.

 

[dangerranger83]

So from the sounds of it I'm good as just a bolting the ball stud on the linkage it has since I'm running a manual trans...works for me.

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[dangerranger83]

Are you running your vaccum advance on the manifold vacum or the ported? Im told the ported is for emissions vehicles but I see both aplicatiions being used and just wanted to know what you are using.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Mine is on ported vacuum.

 

[dangerranger83]

Hmmm...food for thought. I was told that vehicles, like ours, run better off manifold (full time) vacuum for better mileage and power. I'll test both options and see what works best. Thanks for the quick response.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Well the M5OD parts collection program has begun.

I was at u-pull-it yesterday looking for a replacement front license plate bracket since I mangled mine in high school, the county gave me a new plate this year and after prying my good old stamped steel one out of the old braket the new flat aluminum one has an S shape to it... it bothered me.

Found an '84 Bronco, 351W some sort of automatic... with a floor shift t-case. So I crawls underneith to investigate further, scrape off some crud here and some crud there... New Process 208F.

Of course I didn't have all the correct tools to get the thing out, a tranny jack would have been really nice. It doesn't look physically imposing and is herolded as being far lighter than a 205... it feels like it has close to 100lbs on a 1350. Granted I pulled it with the rear driveshaft and no doubt that adds to a t-case's natural awkwardness.

I also like the simplicity of its shifting, it is all straight and back with no dogleg in it to get to neutral/4low. While I do like the positive stop that the dogleg provides as a swap it greatly simplifies the linkage. I need a point to pivot the shifter on and a link that puts the shifter in a spot it doesn't hit anything and that is it. The shifter is also very long to allow for custom bending.

I didn't have 12 point anything, I worked out three of the rear driveshaft strap bolts with vice grips... but there always has to be one. I didn't know of anywhere around there go run out and get one quick and it was getting late... so I got stuck with a $40 driveshaft. Hopefully I can use it for the front driveshaft.

 

[dangerranger83]

That should make a good front shaft.

Also you have fixed front and rear yokes, unlike me, I have a slip rear yoke.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

That should make a good front shaft.

Also you have fixed front and rear yokes, unlike me, I have a slip rear yoke.

I was in no particular hurry to get one, I figured they should be pretty easy to find in a F-150. But if I happened apoun a Bronco with one, then it was mine.

I posted the last post as I was applying liberal amounts of degreaser and high pressure water, here is some clean pics. I think it is undercoating dribbled all over it, I tried not to hit areas open (speed sensor, position switch...) too hard.

I dropped the fluid out of it, it was dark but clean (no water or filings) which speaks good of the rtv after I hammered on it with the pressure washer. I am really tempted to pull the rear housing off, split it and redo the RTV while I have it out in addition to putting new seals in it, reading in my big 1980 Chiltons it doesn't sound too bad. I really don't want another "oopsie" like my trans where I have to drop it out a year later because I didn't bother with it before I put it in.

I am also really tempted to paint it...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

For the clutch end of a 97-08 M5OD 4.2 5 speed swap onto a 50oz 5.0, '95 F-150 clutch stuff work ok?

I have NOTHING for a manual, flywheel, ppa... nothing. Every SBF I have accumulated has been set up for an automatic. Rockauto doesn't seem too bad on new Luk stuff.

HD PPA, disc, bearings for $148, flywheel for $67.