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TDI Ranger Build


if i could get a trans for 100-200 that is appealing to a point. but then the t case and drivlelines still have to be addressed...


for the b2 which is already a 4.0 and sas i think geekers approach is the best value, especially since operating cost reduction is my goal and the sooner that rolls over the better.

the wiring is not a problem for me. well not a problem to hook up. i want a mechanical engine for many reasons, which will leave me to lower power levels but i will be able to burn blends and no worries of electronic failure.

i wonder about mechanically injecting one of the direct injection engines. some cummins injectors and a roosa pump maybe.
 
i found some 95 engines in canada, but it cost 1600 to get a 1500 dollar engine here:shok:
 
I think the M50D is a better choice if ya want to have a 2wd ranger. If ya wanted a 4x4 ranger you would have to use the 4.0 or 3.0 trans as the 2.3 is very rare. In that case the Toyota trans would be a better option. There is a lot of 2.3 rangers out there, and they are made better than toyota's in my opinion. Exspecially if you want to put any sort of weight in the back. Jap trucks had the worst leaf spring design for pickups. So many good upgrades to beef up the ranger with ford parts, its hard to start throwing import stuff into the mix more than you have too(even though the madza transmission is an import).
 
the wiring is not a problem for me. well not a problem to hook up. i want a mechanical engine for many reasons, which will leave me to lower power levels but i will be able to burn blends and no worries of electronic failure.

i wonder about mechanically injecting one of the direct injection engines. some cummins injectors and a roosa pump maybe.

i found some 95 engines in canada, but it cost 1600 to get a 1500 dollar engine here:shok:
Bobby, what you want to build is an M-TDI. It's been done many times before and simply requires the use of one of the earlier mechanical vw pumps. They don't come cheap but if you want to go mechanical they are the way to go. http://www.performancediesel.ca/performance.htm
 
I think the M50D is a better choice if ya want to have a 2wd ranger. If ya wanted a 4x4 ranger you would have to use the 4.0 or 3.0 trans as the 2.3 is very rare. In that case the Toyota trans would be a better option. There is a lot of 2.3 rangers out there, and they are made better than toyota's in my opinion. Exspecially if you want to put any sort of weight in the back. Jap trucks had the worst leaf spring design for pickups. So many good upgrades to beef up the ranger with ford parts, its hard to start throwing import stuff into the mix more than you have too(even though the madza transmission is an import).

I had planned on designing a 4L adapter plate as well. Which would you say is the more common 4x4 manual? 4L or 3L?
 
I did not mean put a TDI in a yota, I posted that suggesting someone use a yota trans in there TDI ranger.........
 
Hey just some food for thought, if anyone else was interested in putting a TDI in a ranger:

There is a complete kit out there to bolt a Toyota w56 or R150 or R151F 5 speed manual trans to a TDI engine.

Those yota transmissions use an external hydraulic slave so a custom adaptor of some sort would be needed but it would be easier then fabbing an adaptor plate to use the M5OD.

And if you go with a R series yota trans, they are super strong!! Same trans as used behind the 4.0 in the jeeps and same trans used behind the V6 yota engine.

Easy to rebuild and light weight, shifter is in approx the same location.


I did not mean put a TDI in a yota, I posted that suggesting someone use a yota trans in there TDI ranger.........

Sounds like a topic for another thread. :icon_thumby:
 
Sounds like a topic for another thread. :icon_thumby:

i knew what he meant, for a 2wd its one thing for a 4x4 your setup is ideal.

i can setup a rbv 2wd 4cyl trans to 4x4 easy enough if necessary, as all the parts are laying around my junkyards...

.good toyota truck with a transmission :icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl::icon_rofl:


two big diy yards i frequent dont even have a toyota truck...and have not in the last 5-6 months. cheapest close to me is 400bux for an 02 with 240k on it.

meh...not for me.:D
 
Sounds like a topic for another thread. :icon_thumby:

i called the guys in the link....turn key pump about 2 grand to put on a direct injection motor...bout 7-900 less if i supply the core pumps.

that seems reasonable...could get a nice di mechanical engine together for 35-4500 bux making decent power and likely get 35 mpg out of an ext cab 4x4 with no lift.

thanks for the link:icon_thumby: i am sure i could figure out how to do it easy enough on my own but for the hassel of getting a 2nd pump it may not really be cost effective.

i will look at the wiring on a normal setup here in a bit, there is a unit in a yard close to where i am now so i can get an idea.
 
The 4.0 is probubly more common. It shares the same bolt pattern as the 2.9 and 2.8 in previous years so it would give you almost the same years as the 2.3. Problem is alot of 4x4 rangers had auto transmissions. They are a weak transmission too, made in france with a bad track record. I believe the 4.0 is stronger than the 2.3 M50D and has a different gear ratio. Wish I had the production numbers for each of the engines with manual transmissions.
 
much of that is in our tech library.
 
i called the guys in the link....turn key pump about 2 grand to put on a direct injection motor...bout 7-900 less if i supply the core pumps.

that seems reasonable...could get a nice di mechanical engine together for 35-4500 bux making decent power and likely get 35 mpg out of an ext cab 4x4 with no lift.

thanks for the link:icon_thumby: i am sure i could figure out how to do it easy enough on my own but for the hassel of getting a 2nd pump it may not really be cost effective.

i will look at the wiring on a normal setup here in a bit, there is a unit in a yard close to where i am now so i can get an idea.

Yeah going mechanical isn't cheap*. In the end you pay to switch over to the mechanical system and give up the electronic timing advance and smoke map - something that becomes very obvious when you start pushing more fuel. To me it seems like a better, cheaper system to keep the electronics but I understand some just aren't comfortable with wiring (not talking about you).

*It can be cheap if you have access to a Canadian boneyard AND you find a good pump in the right year of car ;)
 
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i called the guys in the link....turn key pump about 2 grand to put on a direct injection motor...bout 7-900 less if i supply the core pumps.

that seems reasonable...could get a nice di mechanical engine together for 35-4500 bux making decent power and likely get 35 mpg out of an ext cab 4x4 with no lift.

thanks for the link:icon_thumby: i am sure i could figure out how to do it easy enough on my own but for the hassel of getting a 2nd pump it may not really be cost effective.

i will look at the wiring on a normal setup here in a bit, there is a unit in a yard close to where i am now so i can get an idea.
Or you could just get a low hour reefer take out for under 1000.00 add a turbo, and see high 30's easy. they are di all mechanical and plentiful. One of my friends has the Yanmar 2.1 and I have the Kubota 2.2. His in a 2001 4x4 s/c and see's high 30's all the time. He has a build over on 4bt.com.
 
i called the guys in the link....turn key pump about 2 grand to put on a direct injection motor...bout 7-900 less if i supply the core pumps.

that seems reasonable...could get a nice di mechanical engine together for 35-4500 bux making decent power and likely get 35 mpg out of an ext cab 4x4 with no lift.

thanks for the link:icon_thumby: i am sure i could figure out how to do it easy enough on my own but for the hassel of getting a 2nd pump it may not really be cost effective.

i will look at the wiring on a normal setup here in a bit, there is a unit in a yard close to where i am now so i can get an idea.

35-4500 would put you at about 3-350rwhp on a 6.5 w/ ATT or HX40II and a built FTB modded 4911 pump; I can't see that getting that much less mpg with plenty of TQ and HP to motivate down the hwy...

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy S2 using Tapatalk 2
 

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