TDI Ranger Build

[greengeeker]

Hello when do you thank you will have the how-to write up done I cant wait to see it? I have my alh short block and geting my m5od four cylnder tranny soon and have started to design my adapter plate.
you are the MAN GreenGeeker Thank you for this great right up!

Thanks John. I want to prove my wiring suggestions are sound before I go suggesting others use it. What car is your tdi from btw? I'm thinking I'll have something ready for the 80pin ecu in the next month or so.

 

[greengeeker]

ECU Box

I'll also fab up a new ecu box utilizing the vw ecu slide in mount.

Pictures are pretty self explanatory.

 

[martin]

Wow! that's nice.

 

[Got302ci]

Hey got a quick question for ya, what is your plan for power steering lines & Pump?

Also how are you planning on supplying vacuum to the brake booster?

I know on mine that I put the 4.6 in, I went with a mustang hydroboost and it just about bolted right in, and a crown vic P/S pump is more then capable of running the hydroboost and power rack.

 

[bobbywalter]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I intially was going to solder and heat shrink but decided to go with these as they are more fool proof for the novice wiring guy. I do believe they will be better than somebody's first time soldering and heat shrink. I'll post some pictures after I use a couple.

not so sure i agree....depends on whether or not your in a heavy salt zone with wild hot/cold cycles.






maybe cut one more drain slot in the back middle wall of the ecm box.

 

[greengeeker]

Hey got a quick question for ya, what is your plan for power steering lines & Pump?

Also how are you planning on supplying vacuum to the brake booster?

For power steering I'm using the original vw pump that came in the car. I got really lucky with the high pressure line since the vw shared the same threads as the Ranger so that sucker just bolted right up. I did have to run a longer return line and supply line up to the reservoir which is out of a Beetle (used mainly due to it being talll and skinny).

In the last picture I posted you can see the output of the vw vacuum pump (mounted to the back of the head, driven by the back of the cam). I've looped a length of fuel injection line to a hard line that runs across the firewall over to the brake booster. I'll run my vacuum over to the Ranger vacuum reservoir and then up to my N75 (boost controller) and Ranger HVAC controls.

 

[greengeeker]

not so sure i agree....depends on whether or not your in a heavy salt zone with wild hot/cold cycles.

maybe cut one more drain slot in the back middle wall of the ecm box.

I actually wasn't planning on running any drain holes in the box. The holes pictured are there so I can plug weld the ecu tray into the box.

 

[Jfive]

Thanks John. I want to prove my wiring suggestions are sound before I go suggesting others use it. What car is your tdi from btw? I'm thinking I'll have something ready for the 80pin ecu in the next month or so.

So I sold my cummins, and I am gonna look for a VW Diesel that will eventually get put in a ranger. Is a auto tdi fine, or do I need to find a manual. I would perfer to get an auto vw and buy a flywheel down the road. I saw your list of cars, and I am looking at 2000 to 2004 golf 2000 to 2003 jetta/bug. I'd like to turn up the power when it goes into the ranger and be in the 200hp 300tq range so I could use it to tow a small boat. Is this possible without too much work to the engine?

 

[greengeeker]

So I sold my cummins, and I am gonna look for a VW Diesel that will eventually get put in a ranger. Is a auto tdi fine, or do I need to find a manual. I would perfer to get an auto vw and buy a flywheel down the road. I saw your list of cars, and I am looking at 2000 to 2004 golf 2000 to 2003 jetta/bug. I'd like to turn up the power when it goes into the ranger and be in the 200hp 300tq range so I could use it to tow a small boat. Is this possible without too much work to the engine?

Nice! Auto tdi is actually better as it comes with a bigger pump (11mm for the auto versus teh 10mm for the manual) which you'd need anyway to get to your power goals. I plan on offering a redrilled Ford flywheel in the kit so no need to use the vw parts.

Years you should be targeting:
1999.5-2003 Golf, Jetta or New Beetle. If you find a 1996-1998 Jetta or Passat (1996-1997) those will work as well but will require a little more effort to get them up to your power levels.

Your build would equate to my stage 3/4 power level....items needed: bigger turbo, bigger injectors (PP764's at least), 11mm pump, stage 4 or 5 tune, stronger clutch, pyrometer, boost gauges, etc. If you want to go beyond that you need to start upgrading the shortblock, bigger cam, port the head, etc. It's a slippery, expensive slope.

 

[bobbywalter]

i know where a 01 is i just need to confirm. its 1800 bux but no controls

what is a bew motor compared to a alh?



got a 98 with 190k for 2g and a 98 with 150k for 1500 to look at as well.

 

[greengeeker]

i know where a 01 is i just need to confirm. its 1800 bux but no controls

what is a bew motor compared to a alh?



got a 98 with 190k for 2g and a 98 with 150k for 1500 to look at as well.

Hmm. I'd want to know what exactly comes with the motor. You can get a harness, ecu, DBW pedal, and whatnot but that stuff starts to add up.

A BEW uses a completely different fuel injection system from the ALH and older. They respond very well to just a tune and are easier to get fuel flow out of them when you starting getting into the higher power levels (200+whp) when compared to the ALH. They do have a tendancy to chew up their cam due to the design of the fuel system (uses unit injectors which are driven by added lobes to the camshaft....more lobes in the same length camshaft = less lobe width = more loading on your oil film = metal to metal contact). I'm also not convinced they are really that durable once you start using that increased power....the shortblocks are plenty stout it is actually the heads that start to give under all the abuse.

I'd go for either of the 98's if I were you. The problem is I won't be able to help you with the wiring just yet as I haven't gotten that far in my diagram studies (haven't touched the BEW's for that matter). They will be a very good start to a build (and for cheaper than an ALH) and should be able to put out 160-170whp with some simple mods (same goes for the ALH).

 

[john weeda]

Thanks John. I want to prove my wiring suggestions are sound before I go suggesting others use it. What car is your tdi from btw? I'm thinking I'll have something ready for the 80pin ecu in the next month or so.

2002 jetta alh tdi

 

[greengeeker]

2002 jetta alh tdi

121 pin ecu then.

 

[Jfive]

I know you have kind of touched the subject of clutches, but I thought I would add some imput to this. A guy from the turbo forum found a company in the usa that is starting to make performance clutches for the ford 2.3 M50DR1. Three guys have this clutch so far that I know of, and none have had any issue with it yet. I picked one up allready but moved before finishing my project. For the price, I don't think you can find anything cheaper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAHNHOF-STA...Ford|Model:Ranger&hash=item27cc0a7896&vxp=mtr

 

[Got302ci]

Hey just some food for thought, if anyone else was interested in putting a TDI in a ranger:

There is a complete kit out there to bolt a Toyota w56 or R150 or R151F 5 speed manual trans to a TDI engine.

Those yota transmissions use an external hydraulic slave so a custom adaptor of some sort would be needed but it would be easier then fabbing an adaptor plate to use the M5OD.

And if you go with a R series yota trans, they are super strong!! Same trans as used behind the 4.0 in the jeeps and same trans used behind the V6 yota engine.

Easy to rebuild and light weight, shifter is in approx the same location.