Dura spark so intimidating

[millwrightdude]

Got everything under the hood ready on my 85 ranger. I have not yet removed the old distributor. I removed the air pump and the ac compressor and started the process of removing all the unwanted wires, when I sat down today to read the directions I got from the technical library I was intimidated. I still have a few wires left to remove. It still runs and drives. But I'm going to have to get some help.

 

[dangerranger83]

Do exaclty as it says and it will go smooth. Durasparked two 2.8s and both went smooth.

 

[millwrightdude]

Years ago there where different instructions, I wish I could remember where I put them

 

[millwrightdude]

Anyone have pictures of their 1985 wiring that's been dura sparked

 

[wildbill23c]

Anyone have pictures of their 1985 wiring that's been dura sparked

I've asked about that as well, and it should be added to the tech library section for the duraspark conversion but seems as though no one has pictures or an easy write-up of it. Biggest problem is all the wiring and vacuum lines that you have to deal with. I haven't attempted it as I don't have the parts to do so, but some day I will and plan on taking pictures of it, but that's probably going to be years from now at my rate.

 

[millwrightdude]

I have everything except the carb, I'll order that just as soon as I finish the dura spark

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The 85 is a little more difficult but dooable. From the 8 wire connector by the coil (computer harness) strip the harness from the connector back to the alternator. You only need to cut a few wires but cut them long for future use. Keep the oil pressure sender, water temp sender and alternator wires connected as well as the coil wires. The rest of the computer harness goes away along with the cluster of vacuum lines, solenoids coffee can. Keep the vapor cannister solenoids and vacuum connected I just wired them to the computer hot from the 8 wire connector and grounded the float vent solenoid to the carb base. For the module you have two connectors the four wire is simple color to color on the distributor and run the green to coil negative. The two wire is red to key on hot and the white is key on start. for installing the distributor pull the #1 plug and stick your finger in the hole and turn the crank until you feel compression then line the marks on TDC. pull the distributor cap and note the rotor position, install the new dizzy so the rotor falls in the same place. It may take a couple of times to get it right you may need to spin the crank for the oil pump to line up so it drops down into position. Hey do me a favor and once you get it running before you pull the carb get some #43 jets to replace the #50s in there. I never had the chance to try it before I swapped the carb. Mine ran really good it just blew black smoke running rich pulling a hill. Time it at 10 DBTDC and then connect manifold vacuum to the advance. Pull the idle control motor off the front bottom of the carb and set the idle air needles out 3 1/2 turns and see if it runs, once you have the timing locked in adjust the idle air needles for the highest possible rpm and set the idle speed around 700 rpm. I just put #41 jets in mine and just walked up tiger mountain pass at 65 mph no problem with plenty of pedal left. I`m gonna clock a tank of gas and see if it improves mpg. I`m hopeing smaller jets will help simplify the conversion and improve performance.

 

[millwrightdude]

Which side of the engine does the vacume port on the distributor go?

 

[John Smith]

generally

Which side of the engine does the vacume port on the distributor go?

The passenger side depending on which carb u r using. To verify you have found the "ported vacuum port" when the engine is at dead idle there will NOT be any appreciable vacuum at the port, when you begin to raise the engine rpm, the vacuum builds as the butterflies open ( the port is above the butterfly) You can feel the difference with your finger.

 

[millwrightdude]

Thanks guys, now I need to get the carb ordered

 

[John Smith]

Thanks guys, now I need to get the carb ordered

I know I'm just going to confuse you probably but if you could find an older 2100 autolite that's rebuild-able you'd save some money and IMHO would gain some performance..and look for a 1.02 venturi or smaller, (1.01) etc

good luck

 

[wildbill23c]

How do you tell which venturi a carburetor has in it?

 

[John Smith]

How do you tell which venturi a carburetor has in it?

On an Autolite or Motorcraft carb there is a stamped numerical sign on the carb bowl on the driver's side directly behind the accelerator pump shaft.

1.01, 1.02, 1.08, 1.14, 1.21, 1.33 etc (0.98 as well very rare)

 

[wildbill23c]

On an Autolite or Motorcraft carb there is a stamped numerical sign on the carb bowl on the driver's side directly behind the accelerator pump shaft.

1.01, 1.02, 1.08, 1.14, 1.21, 1.33 etc (0.98 as well very rare)

Awesome, thank you for the information, kind of thought that's what those numbers were but wasn't for sure. Now I know that its a 1.08 Venturi in mine.

 

[Twister]

I know I'm just going to confuse you probably but if you could find an older 2100 autolite that's rebuild-able you'd save some money and IMHO would gain some performance..and look for a 1.02 venturi or smaller, (1.01) etc

good luck

Why would he want one that's 1.02. Isn't that a little small. I ran a motocraft 2100 with a 1.08 venturing on my 2.8 and it really woke it up.

Sent from, wait how did this get here?