Huggyb1972's 87' Ranger 4x4 build

[huggyb1972]

Finally some progress I found a set of wheels for mock up and throwed a set of questionable swamper iroks on it. All the link parts are in and I am trying to get a solid answer on whether my dimensions are correct or not.

This is gonna be a little more fun for me since the youngest daughter wants to get in on the fun so I showed her how to wring a tire on the wheel. The goodyear OZ's are tough she did 2 of the Iroks no problem while I went and ran errand she was huffin and puffin when I got back after multiple atemps at trying to get this last one on.

 

[kris97ranger]

Thats awesome man.

 

[brinker88]

Get on Pirate4x4. There's a vendor over there that's selling recentered H1 double beadlocks for different bolt patterns (Yours would be 5x5.5)

 

[huggyb1972]

I bought a set of hummer 24bolts a little whille back but these will do just fine for now I had to figure out how all this was going to work with the backspacing and all.

I am focused on the rear four link for now still trying to school myself on rool center, anti squat, and all that other gobble-dee-gook. I tossed a 94 explorer hood on it last night and the thing fit I couldn't believe it. After looking at it for a minute I figured out how to build a tilt fron clip.

 

[huggyb1972]

Has anyone got a set of race car scales I could use to figure my COG.

 

[brinker88]

Usually COG is around the top bolt on your bell housing.

 

[huggyb1972]

I want to be a little more specific than that I really want to be able to stay rubber side down. I devised a little plan just sitting here brainstorming cause I ain't shelling out $300+ for a 1500lb scale. If I can find a wheel cylinder close to 1sq in. bore and use a hydraulic pressure gauge that reads up to 2000lbs I should have this thing knocked out in total redneck style.

 

[huggyb1972]

I tossed my ECM for the with the truck we scrapped back in sept. So I'm a little screwed, but I was talking to a guy last night and I stumbled across the Microsquirt ECM for about $350 the thing is waterproof and infinately tunable so I may be going this route and the I won't need a quarterhourse or tweecer to make the turbo work.

 

[huggyb1972]

Radius arms 51" long have room 8" back from axle center line 12" from the back of tire to the frame rail.

 

[huggyb1972]

I finally got my parts to start fabrication of the rear trailing arms and Y-link I am going to box the frame rails out and fill all the holes this week. I am having trouble deciding on rolling sleeve/lobe air bags from Firestone or double convolute Denominator II from Airbagit. I'm going to have to order one or the other here once I get my taX check back. I found another set of 3 tires so now I have enough to play on and get it out and tested with.

Not bad for a set of 3 for $120

 

[86MUDRCJ]

After looking at it for a minute I figured out how to build a tilt fron clip.

I seriously hope you are joking.

 

[huggyb1972]

Is there something wrong with a tilt front or are you refering to building one with some imagination and fabrication and not buying one?

 

[brinker88]

I'd seriously look into shortening those radius arms. At 51" long, your driveshaft will bind before you can use that sort of travel. Plus being that long will be a PITA going over rocks and hills ( You WILL get hung up, and quite frequently )

 

[huggyb1972]

Their really not any longer than Duff EB arms the rear trailing arms are 54" it will be just fine and certainly easier to romp around in that my fullsize Bronco.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

Is there something wrong with a tilt front or are you refering to building one with some imagination and fabrication and not buying one?

Everything is wrong with that. I guess they have their advantages but I don't see it being a mod worth doin.even show trucks look stupid(to me) with them.