Detroit diesel 2 stroke won't start

[blue83ranger]

I'm working on a big sand blaster that is run off a 2 stroke Detroit diesel engine and i can't seem to get it to start. If anyone knows about these it's a 3-53 model. I have a good battery and it seems to spin over adequately. I got the fuel to pump out right where the line hooks into the block. The lever that shuts it off is not in the off position. I tried alittle starter fluid and if you spray just the right amount it'll try to start but won't quite get there. and if you spray just barely to much it'll act like i gas would if the timing was to early. Even without any ether it'll still fire almost every time and smoke but it just won't get going. My uncle got it from where we haul our corn and milo for free. and they use to use it to sandblast their fertilizer buggies. I have no idea how long it's been sitting. I don't ever remember it ever moving from about 2001 when i first saw it. and when i first slapped a battery in it, it was locked up. But a few bumps of the starter and it got loose. the diesel is red, i assume it's just off road only stuff. and it doesn't smell bad or anything. Fuel filters are clean. any thoughts?

 

[Will]

Almost always air in the system. I don't know anything about that particular engine, but I do know that if the system is not self-bleeding, no amount of cranking will start it.

A self bleeding system has a vent in the top of the injection pump so that air in the system can rise to the top and be pushed out through the return line. That means the injection pump would have a return line on it in addition to the feed line and high pressure lines.

My pickup has a self-bleeding pump. I installed an electric boost pump so after I change the filter all I have to do is turn the key on and wiat for a minute--then it will start right up. I've driven large trucks that had a hand pump on the engine that you used to purge the system, though I don't remember the specifics. On one motor I have I crack the high pressure lines and crank it until the fuel comes out. Another motor I have, a Kubota, I ran out all the time because that machine has no fuel gauge. It has a mechanical lift pump and starts right up without any special procedures.

My dad had a Detroit 318 in a 70's road tractor. He seemed to think you needed to use an air hose sealed to the fuel tank to purge the air. So it's likely there's some procedure like that you may have to do.

 

[Hahnsb2]

On one motor I have I crack the high pressure lines and crank it until the fuel comes out.

Do that. Crack the line at the injector while someone cranks, when a good amount of fuel is sprayed out close it while it's still cranking, repeat on the other 2 cylinders

 

[blue83ranger]

The pump only has two lines and i checked for a hand primer and didn't see one. I took the fuel line off where it goes into the block and cranked it till fuel cam out. (it was only me so i couldn't tighten it while it was still cranking) I'm not sure if i have to take the top of the engine off or not. but there isn't any injectors externally. I do see 1 plug in the block that is marked out and the 2nd is the return line and 2 marked in.

 

[Roadkill]

If it was locked up and you bumped the starter to break it free, there is a chance the rings are shot and you aren't getting the compression needed for combustion. You may have to do a tear down to check the linings and pistons.

 

[gotmudd]

Do that. Crack the line at the injector while someone cranks, when a good amount of fuel is sprayed out close it while it's still cranking, repeat on the other 2 cylinders

if doing by yourself, put a remote start switch long enough to reach the head. have all fuel lines on the fuel rail rail cracked open and start cranking. as the fuel appears tighten the lines. we do it on marine models all the time

 

[pickup]

These engines use the injectors as the pumps so cracking lines wont work. You need to get the air out of the injectors. The only real effective ways to start them is to unhook the return line, then air up the tank or POUR the ether to them (it takes a lot). The only other way, but not much fun, is to take the primer pump off the back of the engine (small block about 3" square w/ lines in and out) chuck in drill and spin.
I've owned 4 Detroits, and all were a bear to start after fuel filter change or ran out of fuel.

 

[Hahnsb2]

These engines use the injectors as the pumps so cracking lines wont work. You need to get the air out of the injectors. The only real effective ways to start them is to unhook the return line, then air up the tank or POUR the ether to them (it takes a lot). The only other way, but not much fun, is to take the primer pump off the back of the engine (small block about 3" square w/ lines in and out) chuck in drill and spin.
I've owned 4 Detroits, and all were a bear to start after fuel filter change or ran out of fuel.

Unit injectors, right, forgot that minor detail...

 

[blue83ranger]

that's something i didn't want to here. But at least there's hope. I had the return line off and cranked it and a steady stream of fuel came out, but i need to bleed the injectors? It seems like it should run off the ether and bleed itself since i have fuel going through the return line. but then again i don't know much about this engine, if anything. thanks for the info. and i'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[thegoat4]

No-start on these come down to several causes.

a) stuck fuel control rod. normally these stick WOT, but can be stuck in shutoff or in-between. Pop off the valve cover and make sure that rod moves freely. If it's stuck or tends to get stuck at either end of the swing, get help. It's very easy to make one of these engines run away.
b) make sure the fuel shutoff lever isn't activated. It should be spring-loaded into the run position, but the springs can break or get weak. Some folks would tie them off in the no-run position for safety. After sitting for a while they'd get stuck.
c) pull off enough intake to see the blower and make sure it's spinning. If not, there is a drive shaft through the gear case. It'll be at the end of the blower opposite the governor and throttle. Bring the pieces to a truck parts shop and show them to the oldest guy there--he'll know exactly what it is.

If you have the fuel rail filled up, the injectors are self-bleeding after the engine turns over about twice.

 

[sljensen]

I have also seen detroits not start if one of the injectors is stuck open. not just the rail sticking.

 

[pickup]

If it turns out to be what thegoat4 says, make sure you have something at hand to plug the air intake to shut her down in case of a runaway! On an inline 6-71, A pair of fullsize coveralls and a 4'x6' piece of cardboard will only get sucked in at 5000 rpm, shredded, and sent out the exhaust! Go ahead, ask me how I found out!
An aluminum highways sign does the trick though!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If it turns out to be what thegoat4 says, make sure you have something at hand to plug the air intake to shut her down in case of a runaway! On an inline 6-71, A pair of fullsize coveralls and a 4'x6' piece of cardboard will only get sucked in at 5000 rpm, shredded, and sent out the exhaust! Go ahead, ask me how I found out!
An aluminum highways sign does the trick though!

When my dad worked at John Deere they had to put a wheel chock board on the intake of a old 730 2-cylinder before it finally died, and it sucked the dirt and grease off it, he says it was clean enough to eat off of after it was over. Filled the shop with enough black smoke you couldn't see anything. I have heard stories of a 830 sucking in 1" thick shop manuals as well.

If you do try to get the thing running, make sure you have a way to kill it if it doesn't respond with the regular kill, a clean board across the intake should kill about anything.

 

[Simple_serf]

I've been around a few of the 71 series....Make damn sure you can kill it if it takes off on you...Never had a no start on one other than cold or bad batteries (or faulty control equipment).

I would make sure ALL of the air is out of the fuel system at all points in the fuel system. Then go on and check the fun stuff. Make sure the battery is compeltely charged. Try holding a torch or a large blowdryer in the intake while cranking (Obviously NOT around ether, propane, or gasoline). IF this engine needs to be preheated, check any glow plugs and such.

 

[thegoat4]

Engines overspeed.

Mechanics run away!