where can i put a oil temp sensor for a gauge( 3.0)at

[jrpdash9]

hello, i have a 2000 ranger 3.0 and im trying to hook up a oil temp gauge. i have no idea where i should put it at any ideas

 

[bobbywalter]

tee it with the psi sender

 

[jrpdash9]

aaahhh..... that completely slipped my mind, thanks man

 

[Rearanger]

tee it with the psi sender

That would be the easiest but I'm not sure the best or most accurate. The temp sender would have to be in the oil stream, installing it above and t'd off the pressure sender may not allow enough contact with the oil. I'm also not sure at what point the oil at the pressure sensor is in it's circulation, before engine heat, during or after. Measuring oil temp depends on where you're trying to measure it. Installing a temp sender bung in the pan measures temp after it has been through the engine and heated up, but it also will give an average of oil temp including any heat loss through the pan. I wonder where race car builders put it?

Unless you're racing I also don't know why you'd be interested in engine oil temp. It pretty much is what it is and using a good oil, especially synthetic, will handle just about any temp seen in street use. I'd rather install an auto trans oil temp gauge as those temps can climb if towing under load or rock crawling.

 

[jrpdash9]

i have a trans temp gauge, i use my ranger on technical trails, i use rotella t5 syn blend. and im switching over to motorcraft full syn, lately my oil pressure gauge (factory gauge) has been messing up and i want to start watching my oil alittle closer. example: if im doing a hill climb say tachin 3500 to 4000 rpm ill have a drop out of oil pressure. i wanna see what temp the oil is at when its doing this.

 

[locovaca]

I would throw in a remote oil filter adapter and tap into the line that comes with that. Easy and accurate AND gets rid of oiling your starter every change.

 

[jrpdash9]

i like that idea. hey thanks guys

 

[Rearanger]

I would throw in a remote oil filter adapter and tap into the line that comes with that.

i like that idea.

I have a remote adapter on my Ranger and one on another vehicle which allow dual filters. There is no "tap" on the part that threads onto the engine filter mount, which would be the best place for heat monitoring. They do have possible taps on the remote filter mount part, but that will mean you'll get some cooling of the oil before it sees the sensor. Some oil cooler sandwich mounts have a temperature valve (bi-metal spring) in the engine mount that automatically opens when the oil is hot to allow it to travel to the cooler, this will by-pass the filter to allow the oil to go to the cooler first after the oil is hot, then to the filter.

You'll also not want to impede oil flow with the sensor. My suggestion would be a bung in the pan.

 

[tx3nc]

i have a trans temp gauge, i use my ranger on technical trails, i use rotella t5 syn blend. and im switching over to motorcraft full syn, lately my oil pressure gauge (factory gauge) has been messing up and i want to start watching my oil alittle closer. example: if im doing a hill climb say tachin 3500 to 4000 rpm ill have a drop out of oil pressure. i wanna see what temp the oil is at when its doing this.

Ok, one thing I would like to point out is that if you are using an unmodified factory oil pressure guage, you are not measuring oil pressure. Look at the sender unit. On a 3.0, it's behind the passenger side head on the back of the engine block. If it is fairly small in diameter, it is not a pressure transducing sensor but in reality is an on/off switch. There is a fixed resistor in the circuit somewhere ( on my '93 it is soldered to the back of the cluster) that forces the gauge to read mid scale if there is more than about 5 psi of pressure. Below that the switch opens and the guage reads zero.

Models older than a certain year (in the mid 2000's) can be modified to have the factory guage read real pressure. I'm doing the mod on mine now. Replace the sensor with an electronic oil pressure sensor and jumper the resistor on the back of the cluster.

 

[Rearanger]

Here is a cooler adapter with what looks like extra ports for a temp sensor.

http://www.amazon.com/OIL-COOLER-SANDWICH-ADAPTER-SENSORS/dp/B005IAWC1C?tag=959media-20

 

[Rearanger]

Here's another option.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapters.aspx

 

[evanesce69]

i like the oil filter adapter idea

 

[jrpdash9]

Ok, one thing I would like to point out is that if you are using an unmodified factory oil pressure guage, you are not measuring oil pressure. Look at the sender unit. On a 3.0, it's behind the passenger side head on the back of the engine block. If it is fairly small in diameter, it is not a pressure transducing sensor but in reality is an on/off switch. There is a fixed resistor in the circuit somewhere ( on my '93 it is soldered to the back of the cluster) that forces the gauge to read mid scale if there is more than about 5 psi of pressure. Below that the switch opens and the guage reads zero.

Models older than a certain year (in the mid 2000's) can be modified to have the factory guage read real pressure. I'm doing the mod on mine now. Replace the sensor with an electronic oil pressure sensor and jumper the resistor on the back of the cluster.

wow i dident know that.. thats honestly kinda stupid...... ill check into that mod.. and i did check into the adapters. but i dident know what thread a ranger was

 

[Rearanger]

if im doing a hill climb say tachin 3500 to 4000 rpm ill have a drop out of oil pressure.

The drop out may be because the hill climb is so steep the oil in the pan goes the the back of the pan and below the pick-up tube. You may need a custom pan.

Replace the sensor with an electronic oil pressure sensor and jumper the resistor on the back of the cluster.

No need to "jumper the resistor", just "T" the factory pressure switch with the new pressure sensor.

 

[tx3nc]

The drop out may be because the hill climb is so steep the oil in the pan goes the the back of the pan and below the pick-up tube. You may need a custom pan.



No need to "jumper the resistor", just "T" the factory pressure switch with the new pressure sensor.

That would work, as long as you realize going into it that the guage will be reading much lower than usual. If you jumper the resistor, you will get more of a mid guage reading (if the pressure in the engine is good) and the guage will be more sensitive to changes in oil pressure.

The theory that the guage works on is it is at max deflection at zero ohms and minimal deflection at high ohms. (Works just like a ammeter) The pressure sensing transducer that works with our guages reads high resistance at low pressure and the resistance dropps as pressure increases. With the fixed resistor calibrated to make the guage read mid-scale all the time still in the circuit, then mid-scale now becomes the max reading of the guage system and the needle will fluctuate between low and mid-scale. It might not go above the low hash mark on the guage.