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2.3t reliability


pistolgrippump

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Want to put a turbo setup on my 96 dplug 2.3 ranger. How long do you think I could go on 4 or 5psi with just about stock everything? All parts are from an 85 turbocoupe with an ar60 m11. Not to sure about specs on the turbo. I'm sure a similar thread has been posted but I don't have the time to search.


Thanks
 


Dave R

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Shouldn't pose a long term problem. How many miles are on it now? If you already have any problems (burning oil, spark knock, etc.) the added pressure will only exacerbate them.
 

pistolgrippump

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currently has 108k on it. Doesn't burn an ounce of oil and runs real well for a 2.3 (dynoed at about 100rwhp and 125rwt on a 100 degree day). It did have some knock at about 100k, but I changed the timing belt and it went away. One more question, it bogs down hard core at 100mph...has to be a limiter, know how to remove it?

Thanks again
 

D94R

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Was the TC an auto or manual.

If auto: .48/.63 T3
If manual: .60/.63 T3

You'll need to find a different wastegate actuator if you want to limit to 5PSI. The stock T3's limit boost only as low as 9PSI, you can not mechanically limit it lower than that in stock form unless you find a different actuator. I think the Volvo or Saab ones will work for you though.


Do you have AC? If you do and want to keep it, plan on buying an aftermarket header that locates the turbo further forward in the engine bay. You'll run into a clearance issue with the heater box as well if you only have heat and try to keep the turbo in its "stock" location.


Your truck hits a limiter at ~95mph. Since you're OBD-II you can run a chip or tuner to change/remove the limiter.


-Formerly Danger94Ranger
 

Dave R

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D94R said:
You'll need to find a different wastegate actuator if you want to limit to 5PSI. The stock T3's limit boost only as low as 9PSI, you can not mechanically limit it lower than that in stock form unless you find a different actuator.
Click to expand...
Though changing to a different actuator is the best way to lower the limit, you can do it by lengthening the stock Ford actuator rod. Usually this is done by cutting the rod in the middle and threading both ends, then reassembling it with a threaded coupler. The only real problem with this method is you tend to get a bit of boost creep.
 
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