New to the 2.8L

I picked up a 1985 Ranger 4x4 2.8L 5speed the other day (basically wanted something to play around with and go hunting in, dont wanna beat up the daily driver any) I got it for a couple hundred dollars, So I expected it wasnt in top notch shape. I dont know alot about the 2.8l, the tech articles has helped alot but I still have some more questions.
First let me tell you a little about it:
4 Wheel drive works good, transmission shifts like a dream. Leaks alot of oil, looks like mainly around the valve covers and the oil pan. Cant really tell if the front/rear seal is leaking as well. the transfer case looks like it might leak a small amount where the tranny ties in at. I know from my friends 2.9L BII that I can expect the valve covers to leak but i will still prob try changing the valve cover gaskets...#1 Does anyone have any tips on certain gaskets or techniques that have worked to stop the leaking? I have changed many gaskets in several kinds of cars/trucks (including the 4.6L mod motors so i know make sure the bolts are torque'd right...anything else?


I will post some more questions in this thread later so please check back often and drop me some lines....thanks for the help.

I use the Felpro rubber valve cover gaskets and have zero leaks on my 83.

Thanks I will give those a try.

Also
I am wanting to make the truck dependable, on a budget (power is not the first concern). The truck ticks LOUDLY enough so it is audible over the exhaust which is currently cut off in front of the muffler (i am gonna weld back). I believe it is a lifter, but I am not sure. #1 on many chevys the rockers are adjustable, can the rockers on the 2.8L be tightened and do they frequently come loose?.....I would love to change the lifters but I dont wanna have to buy a new cam, and I am affraid to touch the vacuum & electrical lines that are all laying FUBAR'd on the engine.

#2 When I first start the motor cold I have to mannually keep a high idle for a few minutes to warm the motor. But after driving it for about 30 minutes the truck stays in high idle. My first guess would be a bad vacuum line, but i dont know...and tracking the lines would be near impossible; I dont know what the previous owner tried but I think the truck pretty muich has 2 wire harnesses...and both are being used. i posted some of the pics to my myspace i will put the link to the album.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=409164638&albumId=1229598

One more thing for now...what is this?

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=409164638&albumID=1229598&imageID=13541799

FordFeller said:

Thanks I will give those a try.

Also
I am wanting to make the truck dependable, on a budget (power is not the first concern). The truck ticks LOUDLY enough so it is audible over the exhaust which is currently cut off in front of the muffler (i am gonna weld back). I believe it is a lifter, but I am not sure. #1 on many chevys the rockers are adjustable, can the rockers on the 2.8L be tightened and do they frequently come loose?.....I would love to change the lifters but I dont wanna have to buy a new cam, and I am affraid to touch the vacuum & electrical lines that are all laying FUBAR'd on the engine.

#2 When I first start the motor cold I have to mannually keep a high idle for a few minutes to warm the motor. But after driving it for about 30 minutes the truck stays in high idle. My first guess would be a bad vacuum line, but i dont know...and tracking the lines would be near impossible; I dont know what the previous owner tried but I think the truck pretty muich has 2 wire harnesses...and both are being used. i posted some of the pics to my myspace i will put the link to the album.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=409164638&albumId=1229598

Click to expand...

Wow,where to start?First the 2.8 has solid lifters,and they have to be adjusted periodically.The Procedure is in the Haynes manual.

I looked at your pictures and the large tube on top front of carb is for bowl vent to vapor canister and should have a solenoid valve that is electrically operated to remove bowl vapors in off cycle iirc.

In the tech library is a color coded emissions diagram that may help with the rest of your vacuum mess.

If emmisions testing is not the law in your neck of the woods,you can make all the vacuum lines and sensors diappear with the duraspark conversion,also in the tech library.Some of us have done it and it is about $130 or so for rebuilt parts from napa,advance and others.Well worth the effort.

the part that pushes against the carb throttle linkage is controlled by the computer to speed up the idle for cold start up,I forget what it's called.

The tech library is your friend,pay close attention to the 2.8 section,durapark conversion and vacuum diagram.And post up questions,we'll help where we can.Happy wrenching!

Thanks skippy you have helped alot. I actually found this site will looking for info on the web. The tech section is where i went to first...for a couple of hours I have been a member to many auto websites (Mustangs esp.) ussually I am the one answering questions about the modular motors. I read the duraspark conversion section first, I just wasnt sure of it. Giving how screwed up the wiring is I believe if I am going to work on the truck I will have to do the conversion.

This website is great, from tech to talk, and the classifieds are awesome tons of stuff for sell, hats off to the admin & mods.

skippy said:

Wow,where to start?First the 2.8 has solid lifters,and they have to be adjusted periodically.The Procedure is in the Haynes manual.

I looked at your pictures and the large tube on top front of carb is for bowl vent to vapor canister and should have a solenoid valve that is electrically operated to remove bowl vapors in off cycle iirc.

In the tech library is a color coded emissions diagram that may help with the rest of your vacuum mess.

If emmisions testing is not the law in your neck of the woods,you can make all the vacuum lines and sensors diappear with the duraspark conversion,also in the tech library.Some of us have done it and it is about $130 or so for rebuilt parts from napa,advance and others.Well worth the effort.

the part that pushes against the carb throttle linkage is controlled by the computer to speed up the idle for cold start up,I forget what it's called.

The tech library is your friend,pay close attention to the 2.8 section,durapark conversion and vacuum diagram.And post up questions,we'll help where we can.Happy wrenching!

Click to expand...

+1 on everything!!

Duraspark is the way to go!!!!!! I have to go through emissions testing here in Murfreesboro, TN. It's just the basic tailpipe readings & cat check here for pre-199?(I forget the year), then they plug in for OBD also from that year up.

I imagine it's the same there in KY? All 3 of mine pass every year with flying colors!

Knowledgeable on the 4.6 mod motor huh?...I may have to send you a p.m. on my 98 cobra

B2 Addict said:

+1 on everything!!

Duraspark is the way to go!!!!!! I have to go through emissions testing here in Murfreesboro, TN. It's just the basic tailpipe readings & cat check here for pre-199?(I forget the year), then they plug in for OBD also from that year up.

I imagine it's the same there in KY? All 3 of mine pass every year with flying colors!

Knowledgeable on the 4.6 mod motor huh?...I may have to send you a p.m. on my 98 cobra

Click to expand...

is it just a local thing in Murfreesboro, TN for emissions? In KY we dont have any emmissions testing My Mustang was no where close to emmission legal

Drop me a line anytime, gotta love the 32v 4.6L

FordFeller said:

is it just a local thing in Murfreesboro, TN for emissions? In KY we dont have any emmissions testing My Mustang was no where close to emmission legal

Drop me a line anytime, gotta love the 32v 4.6L

Click to expand...

There are counties here that do not have emissions testing, but all the ones surrounding big cities do. Unfortunately, the county I live in is connected to Davidson County(Nashville). Thank goodness for bolt on offroad H-pipes.

PM sent

First: Check to see what your smog regulations are. I have to pass California smog and everything has to be stock. Mine was about the same condition as yours, but I did it. If you can do it legally, DuraSpark it because yours won't pass the visual. For instance the idle speed control motor on your carb looks like it too far back; that's just to start.

If you do need factory smog, you are going to need Ford's smog manual and wiring and vacuum diagrams - and some cash. But when you are through, you will like your ranger!
Good luck