Original Poster: 93baker
Difficulty: 5 out of 10
Time to install: 5-6hours
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Brief Explanation: this is a how to, install keyless entry, power locks, from JC Whitney or other vendor, name brand is “valiant” into all manual doors. it is relatively easy, if you are mechanically, electrically inclined, but if you are not, it is still not that, hard just going to take a little longer. I am doing this write up because the kit is universal and is not ranger specific, this is the way I installed it this is just a guide and can be changed how ever you like. but this way I found it to work well. some of my methods do not look safe or do not look very professional, for one, I’m not a professional, and i wouldn’t put it in my truck if I didn’t think it was safe.
– basic tools, phillips screwdriver, power drill etc.
– knife (just helps to have around)
– wire strippers
-star bit driver, (I forget the exact size for the window crank)
-duct tape (its a tool)
– valiant keyless entry kit from JC Whitney
– about 10ft of extra wire about 18-20 ga
– a few extra nuts and bolts. small.
sorry for the pics, I couldn’t edit them in paint so I had to use the editor in photo bucket to highlight certain parts.
#1 – Unhook the battery.
#2 – Start by removing your door panel (see picture) remove the screws and lift up.
#3 – Next remove the insulation from the door, just pull it off, i know it sounds destructive but its the only way to get inside the door.
#4 – Remove the little plastic air vent, it is held in by pushdown clips on the back.
#5 – Choose your mounting location, it must be a flat location. in my case my mounting location was too far from the lock rod so I used the “mounting strip” that came with the kit it extends it further. i drilled holes at the side of the vent we removed earlier. mounted the mount strip extender there with some bolts. it will make sense once you get it all in front of you. you can see the bolts and part of the strip in the 3rd pic of this step. before you mount the actuator inside the door make sure you slide the rod through the little hole in the white piece at the top of the actuator. and attach the clamp about a half inch from the top of the rod.
#6 – Remove the “sock” on the lock rod of the truck once you find it you’ll know. You have to remove it so you can attach the clamp on the rod. and also I put another bolt at the top of the mounting strip for security.
#7 – Once you get it mounted, take the actuator rod, and clamp it to the lock rod. by screwing it down. you’ll understand. once you get it secured, lock and unlock your door manually and make sure none of the moving parts hit anything. make sure everything moves smoothly.
#8 – Once you get the actuator mounted, here comes the hardest part of the entire thing, you have to run wires through the conduit in the door. Start by removing the speaker so you can get close to the conduit.
I found it easiest to use a coat hanger or some rather stiff wire and wiggled my way through it, and then attached the wire for the actuators and pull them through. you might want to start with the passenger side it is easier because of the e-brake on the drivers side. you remove the kick panel and the other end of the conduit is behind it.
#9 – Once you get the wire run through the conduit crimp the wire to the leads on the actuator, the kit comes with about 3-4 feet of extra wire, its only enough for one side.
tip” before you move to the next door, wire up the one actuator temporarily and test the lock, unlock functions to make sure it works smoothly.
#10 – Repeat steps 1-8 for the other door.
#11 – Once you get both doors mounted and wired, pop the hood.
#12 – I like to make things clean, so I’m using the power source that Ford would have used to install power locks, I’m just splicing the factory wires, I circled the location where I will put the fuse. pick up the fuse box, you can un-attach it by unclipping 2 clips on the left side of the box, roll it over, its not going to go far, once you roll it over, remove the bottom of the box, with 6 clips (3 on each side) on the box, find the black with white stripe wire its probably about 14ga, cut it and splice your power wire. to what will be the hot side once the fuse is inserted into the vacant slot.
#13 – Next you’ll have to find away through you fire wall for your power wire. I have an automatic transmission so I drilled a hole through the fire wall where I would have a clutch pedal. Run the wire through the hole.
At this point here’s what the inside of my truck looked like. It gets messy.
#14 – Next you have to find a suitable ground. I used the screw under the console under the radio, since I already use it as a ground for my accent lights.
#15 – Next splice the power wires of the actuators, the blue go with the blue, and the green go with green, I know (2) of mine are red but that’s the extra wire I had for the leads to the other door
#16 – Next splice the 2 power wires together with the wire you connected under the hood. to give it power. then connect the (3) ground wires to the ground lead.
#17 – At this point you will follow the vague instructions of the kit, and connect the locks modulators and receivers its simple enough its plug and play.
#18 – Hide all your wires, I hid mine under the lip of the carpet under the dash, I mounted the receivers and such on the air duct behind the console.
I know I have lots of random wire for other stuff under the carpet, its a real fire hazard really.
#19 – Insert fuse into fuse block to test locks, make sure all wires are connected except for the white wire. If you want to turn some lights on when you unlock/lock your vehicle use this wire, it is hot when you press the button to lock/unlock.
#20 – Put your doors back together, I duct taped that foam padding insulation back to the door…. and I had to cut around the plastic vent, to make room for the bolts I used to attach the actuators.
#21 – Enjoy keyless entry