Introduction

This is a guide on how to install, from scratch, the Cruise Control on a 1996 Ranger, XLT V6 3.0 liter engine. My truck came with no cruise control from factory, but the system was totally prewired.

All the parts are original Ford or Motorcraft. I took the time and patience to get every component, screw and any hardware to make a nice, clean installation.

Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

Just get all the hardware, tools and take your time. It’s simpler than what it seems!

Tools Needed

  • 8mm and 10mm socket
  • Philips and flat screwdrivers
  • Steering wheel universal extraction tool.
  • T-40 Torx screwdriver (to remove the steering wheel)

Parts Needed

  • Cruise Control servo
  • Cruise Control servo cable (engine and year specific)
  • Cruise Control servo cable plastic retainer
  • New clock spring with C/C connections (part #F76A-14A664-GB)
  • New Brake Master Cylinder with C/C deactivation switch (part #F67Z-2140-JA)
  • Steering wheel C/C pods or buttons

PART 1: IS MY TRUCK PREWIRED

To see if your Ranger came prewired from factory for the Cruise Control (C/C) you will have to check:

1.1- Under the hood: on front right fender, between the windshield washer reservoir tank and the cab fan; look for a large 10-pin black connector, attached to the fender and of course, unused. (see pic 1 below).

1.2- Under the dashboard: remove your kick panel and then the metal shield behind it. Check for a yellow plastic tube. This tube ends on 2 connectors, a brown one and a gray one. The gray is for the Airbag while the brown one is for the horn, ground and also, the C/C switches. You are prewired if this brown connector has 6 incoming wires. (See pic 2 below)

1.3- On the Master Brake Cylinder: check for an unused plug with 2 wires

Pic 1: Connector on the RH fender:

large 10-pin black connector, attached to the fender

Pic 2: Connector under the dash: See the brown connector? It has 6 incoming wires and only 3 outgoing. This is that the truck is prewired on the steering column, as those extra wires are the wiring for the C/C switches on the steering wheel.

See the brown connector? It has 6 incoming wires and only 3 outgoing

Now that we are sure our truck is prewired for the cruise control, we can start mounting all the hardware on the truck.

Cruise control hardware

PART 2: MOUNTING ON THE STEERING COLUMN

2.1- DISCONNECT BOTH POLES ON THE BATTERY AND WAIT FOR AT LEAST 15-20 MINUTES. We will be working with the Airbag system, so fully disconnect the battery and wait till the system gets discharged.

2.2- Remove the kick panel, metal shield underneath and the steering column trim.

2.3- Remove the bolt covers on each side of the steering wheel

2.4- Remove both 8mm nuts on each side of the steering wheel, then unplug and remove the airbag. Set it aside on a flat, non-static surface facing UP.

2.5- Unplug the horn wires on the steering wheel.

2.6- Remove the steering wheel nut with a T-40 screwdriver

2.7- With the universal steering wheel extraction tool, remove the steering wheel.

2.8- Disconnect both gray and brown plugs under the steering wheel column (see pic 3).

Pic 3: original brown and gray connectors:

original brown and gray connectors:

2.9- Disconnect the wire going to the ignition cylinder (light blue plug, see pic 4 below)

Pic 4: wire on the ignition cylinder:

wire on the ignition cylinder

2.10- Remove all the mounting clips the yellow tube

2.11- Remove the clock spring assy. There are 2 tabs on each side, pull them and remove the clock spring with the yellow tube assy. See pic 5

Pic 5: original clock spring and yellow tube on the steering column:

original clock spring and yellow tube on the steering column

2.12- Once removed, put in place the new clock spring. Attach it firmly to both tabs. Route the yellow tube underneath the column, attaching all the mounting clips and also, the light blue connector on the ignition switch

2.13- Reconnect the brown and grey plug on the steering column. See pic 6.

Pic 6: new plugs under the steering wheel column:

new plugs under the steering wheel column

Before installing the new steering wheel with the C/C switches, we have to pull the yellow retainer on the clock spring. This retainer keeps the clock spring centered and in place, so:

2.14- Pull the yellow tab and try not to move the clock spring. See pic 7.

Pic 7: yellow retaining clip on new clock spring:

yellow retaining clip on new clock spring

2.15- Reinstall the new steering wheel. There’s a mark so you can’t miss align it. Put the nut in place and tighten it. See pics 8 and 9.

Pic 8:

Reinstall the new steering wheel

Pic 9:

Connect the cruise control connector on the new clock spring

2.16- Connect the cruise control connector on the new clock spring. See pic 10

Pic 10: connections on the steering wheel to the new clock spring

connections on the steering wheel to the new clock spring

2.17- Place and connect the airbag to the new clock spring.

2.18- Reassembly all the panels, we are done with the interior

PART 3: MOUNTING UNDER THE HOOD

3.1- Mount the Cruise Control servo (with its metal bracket) to the RH fender. Tighten the 10mm bolt.

3.2- Route the C/C cable over the engine and route it to the accelerator cable

3.3- On the accelerator cable bracket, you will be able to see an unused spot for the C/C cable. This fit in only one direction. Firmly attach the cable to its spot and double check it won’t come out. It’s very straight forward you can go wrong with this.

3.4- Place the C/C cable retaining clip and place the cable in place.

3.5- The most difficult part of this installation is replacing the master brake cylinder, as you will have to refill and purge of course with new fluid.

3.6- Remove the original brake master cylinder and place the new one.

3.7- Connect the Cruise Control deactivation switch and plug the black connector, which should have been there with the truck (step 1.3)

3.8- Fill with brake fluid and purge the system

Fill with brake fluid and purge the system

Done with the installation. In my truck I have to modify absolutely nothing, and the system works like it should. Also, and as important, it deactivates perfectly, whenever I press the brakes and /or clutch.

This was one of the nicest modifications I made to my truck, worth every dollar and minute invested!!!!!!

Links

The original forum submission ‘Complete OEM Cruise Control Installation

Contributors

Forum members: mfernandes: Matias Fernandes, Paysandu, Uruguay (South America)

About The Author

Founder / Administrator at  | Staff Profile

Jim Oaks is the founder of The Ranger Station, one of the longest-running Ford Ranger enthusiast communities on the web. He has spent over three decades owning, modifying, repairing, and driving Ford Rangers on the street, trail, and cross-country routes.

Since launching TheRangerStation.com in 1999, Jim has documented thousands of real-world Ranger builds, technical repairs, drivetrain swaps, suspension modifications, and off-road tests contributed by owners worldwide. His work has been referenced by enthusiasts, mechanics, and off-road builders looking for practical, experience-based information rather than theoretical advice.

Jim’s hands-on experience includes long-distance overland travel, trail use, drivetrain and axle upgrades, suspension tuning, and platform comparisons across multiple Ranger generations. The content published on The Ranger Station is grounded in first-hand experience and community-verified data, not marketing claims or generic specifications.