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Would upgrading to the 8.8 be worth it for a 4cyl?


Tikker

Active Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Messages
39
City
Acworth, Ga
Vehicle Year
2003
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I'm looking to buy a Power Trax lock right locker to help with winter driving this year. I drive a '03 Mazda 2.3L with a manual & my driving style is very conservative to save on gas. I don't ever plan to put larger tires on the truck & the off-road driving I will ever do is on the gravel roads on WMA land when I'm out hunting.

So given what I'll be doing with the truck, is there much of a reason to upgrade the axle?
 
Nope. But I upgraded mine because I found an 8.8 with Ford Racing 4.10s, a Trick Flow girdle, and an Eaton Posi for $250. That was the cheapest way to get posi that I could find, plus I could replace the outer bearings and seals and clean it up and paint it all before installing it.
 
Very little.

I put an Explorer axle in mine because I had found it for $50 on another forum, it was originally for another project that I never ended up doing. I wanted to re-gear the axle with some sort of traction enhancer, and my 7.5" was noticeably getting a little long in the tooth, and needed a host of new parts as well.

After comparing all the parts I needed that had an equivalent counterpart between the 2 axles (7.5" and Explorer 8.8), the Explorer axle was around $20 more expensive... No joke. But the deciding factor was the locker. I really wanted a selectable locking diff, as it's mostly a highway truck, and when I needed traction I didn't want to waste time and fool around with a L/S, I needed all the traction my tires were going to give me. Since no selectable lockers were available for the 7.5", I went with the 8.8".

If ARB or whoever made a locker for the 7.5", I probably would have done it. Better ground clearance, and it's a under-rated axle IMO. Especially for the smaller engines.

But if you're looking for a selectable traction enhancer, a Ranger 8.8 is the way to go. Bolts right in, and has a host of options. Granted it's the more expensive route, but it's soooooo nice.
 
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Going from a 7.5 to a 2.8 spline 8.8 is pretty pointless IMO. They have the same weak point and use the same part there. The 31-spline is the real upgrade for strength, which is still pointless if you only have a 2.3.

If you have some other goal in mind, like a locker, that can't be done on a 7.5, go for it.
 
28 spline sucks. I'm swapping up to the 31 in November as well as running disc brakes. I picked up mine from an Explorer which has factory posi and 3.73 gears. Ruffstuff makes a swap kit. It's actually quite cost effective versus adding a locker, you also get a stronger axle.
 
I suppose it would be worth it if I decided to convert it to 4wd, but from what I've read online the regular cab's are tough to change over. Although it would be cool to have a solid axle under there.
 
A 4x4 conversion is kind of a niche thing.

But back to your original post,

If a lock-Right seems like it will do what you want it to do, I'd go with that. The 7.5" axle will last indefinitely (barring regular wear and neglectful maintenance) when subjected to 4cyl power and stock tires.

↑↑↑ Most important part of this post

↓↓↓ Extra info/options

But if you want to make the move to a selectable locker, which will act exactly like an open diff when un-locked, then I'd put a Ranger 8.8" in it. Only because there are no selectable locker options for a 7.5" though (which is silly). A Ranger 8.8 (say, 1993 or newer just to be safe) will bolt right in, 0 modifications.

Stock limited slips (L/S's) aren't lockers, and if you pick it up out of something at a junkyard there's a good chance it's worn to uselessness and will need new clutches. You will also need to weld for a Explorer 8.8 swap, so either pay a shop, or do it yourself. Either way you need extra money for that. 31 splines are stronger, there's no argument against that. But in this application, strength is a moot point.

28 spline, is fine.

I can get my locked 2wd a surprising number of places. Diff locks and tire tread pattern (not size) for the expected (or most common) terrain are the 2 most important mods that will get you to where you want to go.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I decided to stick with the 7.5 and buy the Powertrax lock-right locker. I just ordered it a few minutes ago. I was starting to think about selling the truck and buying into something else that I can take off road. But the 30+ mpg I'm getting now would be long gone, so I'll get by another year or so driving this truck and just make it adequate enough to get me by on what I need. Later on I'll find a set of rims on craigslist and throw some A/T or snow tires on it for hunting/winter season.
 
Tikker:

Does your B2300 have coil springs in front or torsion bars?

If it has torsion bars, the move to SLA 4x4 is almost bolt in (about same amount of fabrication/welding as installing an Explorer rear differential; more new <or experienced> parts).

If it has coils (or your heart is set on SAS), you would be looking at a lot more fabrication.

Note: In either case, kiss 30+mpg good bye.
 
Don, I have the independent front suspension. It was the same way as my '04 Ranger with the 3.0 engine. I think it's the FX4 style 2wd trucks that come with the torsion bars. It's been a few years since I looked that up so I could be wrong.

I just picked up all the supplies I need to install the lock-right & will have a go at it tomorrow.
 

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